EL REFUGIO DE MAMAINÉ

Esther Cartagena's restaurant Castrillón de Cotito is a must in the region, celebrating the flavors of Afro cuisine. The plates are richly served. The star dish? Not light light, the 6 in 1 with rice, black beans, seco de res, cau-cau, carapulcra and sopa seca. Some simpler dishes like the inevitable chicken schnitzel and salad, many dishes with viscera. Note the musica negra shows, including Madame herself rolling her hips and shoulders after the service. Great popular atmosphere. Accessible by taxi.