MERCADO DOS LAVRADORES
The "ploughmen's market" is located in the square of the same name at the entrance to the old town. It is the largest market on the island... and also the most touristic! It is impossible to miss this building, inaugurated in 1940 and representative of the new state (Portuguese Salazarist fascist period). To be visited, at least for the pleasure of the eyes and to take some nice pictures! Particularly animated in the morning and on Fridays, the market charms by its festival of colors and smells which attracts many tourists around 10:30 am: come earlier if you don't like the crowd (let's repeat it, then it's very touristy!).
Flowers. Take a stroll through the flower market in the central patio, for example, with its vendors in traditional costumes. They can pack the pretty flowers (birds of paradise/estrelícias, fire tongues/antúrios, orchids/orquídeas, próteas...) for your return trip (if, of course, this is allowed by your airline).
Praça de peixe. At the bottom, in the morning, the fish market is also worth a look. A fishmonger's tunny, a 30 kg tuna in one hand and a machete in the other, is haranguing the barge, while next to it, a stiff dead "espada" is being weighed, with its tail wrapped in its beak. This is the time to watch this fish cooked in all kinds of sauces!
Tropical fruits. Upstairs, multicoloured and fragrant exotic fruits in profusion (with the little known: English tomatoes, banana-pineapple, banana-apple, anone-apple, cayenne cherries...) and tropical vegetables (chayote, manioc...) or a small herbal shop; downstairs, a few other first fruits and a few shops selling alcohol, liquor, sweets, postcards and souvenirs. Don't miss this market on the traditional Christmas Friday, for the market feast, a major event of the end of year festivities in Funchal, captivating the crowds until the end of the night with carols, entertainment and kiosks overflowing in the heart of the city.
Too touristy? But beware, even if some of them make you taste their products sympathetically, compare prices and quality before you decide and avoid stands without a price sign, which often work at the customer's head. Many visitors shout scam after being forced to buy a maracujá at the full price! Beware or take a look around for the pleasure of the eyes... Fruit is usually much cheaper on the small stalls that are set up in the street (much less choice though!).
Comme pour tous les marchés il vaut mieux arriver de bonne heure le matin, surtout pour le marché aux poissons qui se termine très tôt et où les étals, bien remplis de bonne heure, sont rapidement vides.