MILFORD SOUND

It's perhaps the South Island's best-known natural site, the one that everyone talks about and whose photos are passed around in hostels and on vacations. On the scale of New Zealand, Tongariro is perhaps the only comparable site. And there's a lot to be said for it. It's a jewel box of beauty and infinite charm. If you can, don't come at the height of the season, as there will be a lot of cars and the cruises will be crowded. In winter, it's much less crowded, and the snow adds to the magic, but beware: access may well be closed due to the weather. The best time to visit is between seasons. The drive from Te Anau is an attraction in itself. It takes around 120 kilometers and a good two hours, or even longer with the various stops. There's so much to see along the way: lookouts, valleys, lakes and endless mountains. As you climb northwards, the Mirror Lakes can already be an interesting photo stop, with their shimmering surface reflecting the peaks. The view from the tip of Lake Gunn is even more breathtaking and romantic in its grandeur. With a little time to spare, venture into the Hollyford Valley towards Gunns Camp to see the small waterfalls of Lake Marian, at the end of a short walk, and the very impressive 275-metre-high Humboldt Falls (20-30 minutes round trip). You'll then have to pass through the Homer Tunnel, completed in 1953 at an altitude of 945 metres. At the exit, the panorama is dazzling and you gradually descend to sea level to reach the Sound. Before reaching your destination, The Chasm is well worth a stop for its waterfalls and rock formations (20-minute round trip). Once you're on the shore, the beauty of the place really comes into its own. There's a parking lot and a building from which boats depart. It's here that you'll have to embark for the cruises. With a little luck, dolphins and sea lions will cross your path. The waterfalls are also beautiful, and the mountains plunging into the water with their twisted shapes command respect, like Mitre Peak looking down on us from its 1,692-metre height. If everything here is green, it's for the simple reason that it rains 200 days a year, with an average annual rainfall of 6,800 mm. So don't forget your rain gear and good shoes! A detailed brochure of all Milford Road points of interest is available on the DOC website.