Things to see and do Axoum

The rectangular church, the ancient temple forbidden to women, was built in the ^17th century by King Fasilidas on the site of what was probably the first church in Africa, erected in the early ^4th century under the reign of Ezana. Enlarged in the ^6th century by King Kaleb into a majestic cathedral, the edifice was probably destroyed after the fall of the kingdom of Aksum, and again in the ^16th century during the Gragn raids.

Today's architecture, with its crenellated walls and three naves topped by domes, is reminiscent of Gondaran buildings. The building, where some Ethiopian sovereigns were crowned, houses an interesting collection of musical instruments and crosses.

In 1952, Emperor Haile Selassie undertook the construction of a new cathedral as a reminder of the spiritual importance of this cradle of Ethiopian Christianity. Also dedicated to St. Mary of Sion, the basilica stands out from the landscape.

Between the two churches stands a strange chapel, home to Ethiopia's thickest mystery, the legendary Ark of the Covenant. The chest which, according to the Bible, contains the Tables of the Law of the Ten Commandments. The Church of Ethiopia's account of the Ark is based on the Kebra Nagast, a ^14th-century book that established the myth of Solomonic royalty. The Ark is said to have been offered by the Hebrew king Solomon to Queen Makeda of Sheba after his visit to Jerusalem. It was then taken to Ethiopia by their son Menelik. Today, it is hidden from the eyes of men and guarded by a voluntary prisoner, confined to the building for life. Off-limits to women, the building's basement contains an important treasure trove of crosses, crowns and musical instruments. In the sanctuary's garden, note the presence of large carved stone blocks, the bases of ancient thrones on which Ethiopian sovereigns were crowned, but which were probably also dedicated to pre-Christian divinities. Outside the enclosure, the small church of Arbatu Ensessa is worth a visit for its remarkable murals.

The church is once again part of history, tragically, as the Maryam Ts'iyon massacre took place here in December 2020 during the Tigray war. According to Amnesty International, some 750 people who had taken refuge in the church were executed in the square by the Ethiopian army and Amhara militia.

The necropolis of these Axumite kings dates back to the ^6th century. These burial chambers were once surmounted by a pyramidal edifice covered by a tumulus. King Kaleb's tomb is composed of blocks and three chambers. That of Gabra Masqal, his son, consists of five funerary chambers on which are carved elephants and several crosses. The tomb still contains sarcophagi. Legend has it that a tunnel more than 180 km long links this sanctuary to Eritrea!

Just 2 km from the tombs of Kaleb and Gabra Masqal, and after a short climb, we reach the monastery founded by one of the nine Syrian saints in the ^6th century, Saint Pantaleon, who is said to have built this sanctuary on a site of pagan rites. It later became home to King Kaleb after his abdication. From here, it's a 20-minute walk to the church perched on a volcanic peak. The beautiful view of the surrounding area is enough to justify this little expedition.

An astonishing 2.5 m high stone milestone, the "Ezana Stone", is engraved with text in Geze, Sabean and Greek. It was found there in 1981 by a farmer ploughing his field. The inscription on the stele relates the episode of the battle against the Beja and other enemies of the kingdom, as well as the spread of Christianity under the sovereign's reign. Another passage warns that anyone wishing to destroy the edifice is doomed to a curse... A similar engraved stele is on display in the small Ezana garden in the town center.

Known as the "Pool of the Queen of Sheba", this cistern, whose name Mai Shum means "water of the chief", is said to have been the baths of the Queen of Sheba three thousand years ago. The other version is that it was dug in the early ^15th century as a water reservoir by the priest Abuna Samuel. Cut into the rock on one side and built on the other, this reservoir, which has been remodeled many times, is the rallying point for the great Timkat festival. The visit is not very interesting, but is included in the overall pass.