New Orleans is one of the most mythical cities and the party is perpetual, especially in January and February when parades follow one another while waiting for Mardi Gras, an incredible festival whose reputation has been spread all over the world.
New Orleans, a real postcard
It is through New Orleans, one of the symbols of the French presence in America, city of culture, history and decadence that we will discover Louisiana. Its historic heart, the French Quarter or "Vieux Carré", is an open-air museum. Jackson Square with the St. Louis Cathedral, the oldest in the United States, is the central square. All around is a network of streets with French names, like Toulouse or Royal, but with mainly Spanish architecture. You will come across many postcard facades with wrought iron balconies from which large ferns hang. The Vieux Carré also has low, colorful Creole houses with their lush backyards where flowers and banana trees grow. The French Quarter is also a series of restaurants where you can taste the best of Louisiana cuisine in shady patios that provide a little freshness. In the afternoon, at the corner of Jackson Square, you can take a break at the inevitable Café du Monde, whose specialty is café au lait accompanied by delicious beignets. Then, further on Decatur Street, we go to the French Market, one of the oldest markets in America, where the best of Louisiana spices are displayed, between Cajun herbs and bottles of Tabasco. At night, you can enjoy Bourbon Street, which vibrates to the sound of jazz cafés and bars where they play wild tunes of "zydeco", a mixture of Cajun music and Creole rhythms. This festive spirit is multiplied tenfold during the famous Mardi Gras, a central event in the life of New Orleans. Every year thousands of people attend, and the party reaches its peak with its parade of colorful floats.
Don't miss the Mardi Gras World, a large museum and float workshop located in Algiers Point, on the other side of the Mississippi. For shopping, the Vieux Carré offers many souvenir stores, but also antique shops and art galleries. We will take the famous streetcar called "Desire", which runs along the famous Saint Charles Street. This route allows you to admire the sumptuous bourgeois houses built by the "Americans" who settled on this side of the city, while the Vieux Carré was reserved for the Creoles. In the neighborhood, the Audubon Zoo will give you a taste of the richness of Louisiana's flora and fauna.
Mardi Gras: a major event full of history
Until you experience it yourself, it's impossible to imagine the impact it has on the city. New Orleanians take Mardi Gras and all of its surrounding celebrations very seriously. After the Civil War, it was one of the first holidays to be revived. Mardi Gras has gone beyond its religious roots to become a tradition. This tribute to the festive genius of New Orleans has survived into the 21st century and is becoming even more important.
This tradition was brought to Louisiana by the French in the 18th century. During the French presence, masked balls were held before Lent. They stopped when the Spanish ruled New Orleans. Until 1823, masked balls were illegal in the United States, but the Creoles revived them and most ended with a parade in the street. In 1839, the first float parade was held.
The first official organization was created by a group of Anglo-American businessmen in 1857. The famous Mistick Krewe of Comus marched in the same year. Other organizations were formed later. Rex, one of the most famous, created in 1872, established other traditions: the king cake and the three colors: purple for justice, gold for power and green for faith.
The first black parade, Zulu, was created in 1910 as a parody of Rex and was first paraded in 1916. Today, Rex and Zulu are the two main parades that march on Mardi Gras Day. They are also the most anticipated.
In 1969, the Krewe de Bacchus was formed by wealthy industrialists from other states. Unaccepted by other organizations, they formed their own club and changed the traditional Mardi Gras parade into a more spectacular one. Hollywood actors took part in it, TV stars were elected kings of the parades. These parades were considered by other older krewes as rival and too demonstrative of the wealth of their members. The Endymion, Orpheus and Bacchus parades are still known today for having the largest floats, the longest parades and the most beautiful throws.
Time to party!
The Monday before Mardi Gras is celebrated on the riverfront with the arrival of the Zulu and Rex kings by boat. Two stages are set up near each respective pier. The meeting of the two kings is an event in which the mayor participates. All afternoon and evening, a big party is organized with music, food and fireworks. Orpheus begins. This parade is very illuminated and has the largest float, the Leviathan, which can be seen all year round at Mardi Gras World.
The parade program is usually the same every year. Every day the local newspaper publishes the different parade routes and presents its kings, queens, dolphins or grand marshals. Arthur Hardy's Mardi Gras Guide is available in all stores in the city. It offers 150 pages of articles on the history of Mardi Gras and details the routes of the parades. Parades in the French Quarter are prohibited due to the fragility of the buildings. Only the Krewe du Vieux Carré is allowed to parade in the French Quarter. The floats are small, built from caddies or carts pulled by people or mules. Two weeks before Mardi Gras, parades are held almost every day, allowing families and younger people to enjoy these special moments when the crowd is not yet too hysterical.
Mardi Gras day starts early in the morning on the central part of St. Charles Avenue. But the day really starts when King Rex throws a toast from his float out of the warehouse and Zulu arrives on Jackson Avenue around 8:00 am.
At some point, all the revelers end up in the French Quarter. Bourbon Street is the busiest street. Some parts of the street are downright impossible to cross without jostling.
Even if you don't have a costume, wear a hat, cape or something else to share the Mardi Gras spirit. Many recycle Halloween costumes. At midnight, police followed by cleanup trucks symbolically announce that Mardi Gras is over and ask all participants to go home.
There are many stories of how visitors who come during Mardi Gras fall in love with the city and never leave. Now it's your turn!
Smart Info
When is Mardi Gras? Spring and fall are the best seasons. This year's Carnival festivities begin on January 6 and culminate in Mardi Gras on February 21, 2023.
Getting there. No direct flight, it takes between 11 and 14 hours of travel.
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