Champs d'oliviers © Oleksii Synelnykov - Shutterstock.com copie.jpg
Vautour moine © Txanbelin - Shutterstock.Com.jpg

A flora of exceptional diversity

In Greece, there are no less than 6,600 different plant species. In relation to the size of the territory (130 000 km2), this is the record in Europe. Thus, metropolitan France, although four times larger, has only 6,000 plant species. And, of the species existing in Greece, about 800 are classified as rare and 1,000 plants are endemic, i.e. specific to the country (they can be found elsewhere, but they are native to Greece). This is the highest rate of endemism in Europe: 15% of the flora. Why such biodiversity? First of all, as in the rest of the Balkans, the Greek territory has been less subject to changes brought by man (selection of species, intensive agriculture, etc.). The other explanation is the geography, very diversified, with mountains, islands, deltas, lakes, arid or humid zones. Some islands or isolated valleys constitute unique biotopes.

Most of the approximately 1,000 plant species unique to Greece are concentrated in Crete, the Peloponnese and Central Greece (north of Attica). Most of these are wildflowers or perennials, such as the Cretan dictamus (Origanum dictamnus), a shrub whose whitish leaves have been used since Minoan times to combat stomach ailments. Crete also has about 50 kinds of orchids (about 190 for the whole country), among which the rare hooded cephalanthera (Cephalanthera cucullata) with its stem giving a dozen white bell-shaped flowers. There are also 13 species of tulips, such as the Goulimis tulip, with large red petals, which grows only in the Peloponnese and the islands of Crete and Kythera. Finally, let's mention the Convolvulus argyrothamnos, a bush with pink flowers that exists only in three valleys of Crete and is listed among the 280 endangered plants of Greece.

A land of forests

Officially, they cover 45% of the territory. But this is a gross exaggeration, since it includes the huge "seas" of olive trees, various tree farms and a large part of the scrubland. In fact, the wooded areas are really only 20% of the land. And since the relief is mountainous and the climate Mediterranean, they are composed mainly of conifers, including Scots pine(Pinus sylvestris), pine Calabria (Pinus brutia), black pine(Pinus nigra) and Bosnian pine(Pinus heldreichii) that grow respectively up to 600 m, 1200 m, 1800 m and 2400 m altitude. However, there are some beautiful deciduous forests. These are rare, but unlike their Western European cousins, they have remained wild and are not exploited by man. Thus, in Crete, the slopes of the Lefka Ori ("White Mountains") are covered with cypress and Cretan maple (Acer sempervirens). In the Peloponnese, near the archaeological site of Olympia, the forest of Foli (40 km2) is a unique ecosystem in the Balkans, since it is almost exclusively composed of oaks: Hungarian oak(Quercus frainetto), pubescent oak(Quercus pubescens) and holm oak(Quercus ilex). In the past it was known as the home of centaurs and dryads (tree deities), but today it is home to foxes, wild boars, eagles, etc. The largest and richest forest of the country is however that of Dadia, in Thrace, on the border with Turkey. Its 295 km2 of pines and oaks stretch from the Evros delta to the foothills of the Rhodope Mountains at an altitude of 800 m. It has the most varied fauna in Europe with most of the migratory birds stopping over, large vultures, the brown bear, and 40 species of reptiles and amphibians. In general, Thrace is the place to be for a nature trip in Greece. The region also includes the forest of Elatia (75 km2), near Drama, with spruce trees (Picea abies) the most southern in Europe, as well as the small mountainous forest of Frakto (5.5 km2) located on the Greek peak of the Rhodope Mountains, at an altitude of 1,950 meters. The latter, composed of spruce, beech, pine and rare bryophytes (ancestors of all land plants), is considered the only virgin forest in Greece.

A marine sanctuary

The waters of the eastern Mediterranean are warmer and saltier than in the western part. This environment has therefore allowed the development (and preservation) of a very rich fauna. However, large marine animals rarely venture near the coast. And if there are 47 species of sharks, they are not very dangerous: the last deadly attack took place in 1963 and the Greek waters are considered the safest in the world against sharks. Dolphins (5 species in the country) and whales (7 species, the largest of which is the fin whale which reaches 20 m in length) can be seen, for example in Mount Athos or near Lipsi (Dodecanese). In the national marine park of Alonissos (Sporades), excursions allow to observe the last specimens of the Mediterranean monk seal (Monachus monachus). Diving enthusiasts will go in search of green sea anemones or the peacock girelle(Thalassoma pavo, gaïtanouriin Greek), a magnificent small fish with tropical colors. Gourmets will enjoy the Cretan scare(Euscaruscretensis, skaros in Greek), a cousin of the parrot fish and renowned since antiquity for the flavor of its flesh. But you should beware of thetsouchtra (Pelagia noctiluca), the only local species of jellyfish that is dangerous for humans: it measures 5 cm in diameter, is phosphorescent at night and only presents a risk when the current brings it to the shore. Greece is also home to the largest number of egg-laying sites (about 3,000) of the endangered loggerhead sea turtle (Caretta caretta), which benefits from a protected area on the island of Zakynthos.

The birdwatcher's paradise in Europe

Greece has 445 bird species, of which 25% are rare (or threatened) and 70% are migratory. The latter mainly stay in the wetlands and lakes of the northern part, especially in the Evros delta (border with Turkey), which attracts 100,000 birds and 75% of the country's species. The Prespa lakes (border with Albania and Northern Macedonia) are home to the world's highest concentration of the endangered curly pelican (Pelecanus crispus), represented here by 1,400 pairs. Greece also has the largest number of raptor species in Europe. These are mainly found in Thrace and the Rhodope Mountains (border with Bulgaria) where the griffon vulture (Gyps fluvus) and the very rare monk vulture (Aegypius monachus) live. As for Crete, it is home to 25 pairs of bearded vultures (Gypaetus barbatus) as well as the majestic golden eagle (Aquila chrysaetos) with a 2 m wingspan. On the sea side, the two most common species are the great black-backed gull (Larus cachinnans) and the Eleonora's falcon (Falco eleonorae). This bird of prey returns every year from Madagascar to nest in the Aegean Islands and hunt fish. Finally, among the most common birds in Greece, our preference goes to the magnificent hoopoe (Upupa epops). Coming from Africa, it nests in the Peloponnese as well as near the lakes of Macedonia. Designated as the queen of birds by Aristophanes, she is distinguished by her beige plumage, erectile hoopoe and wings streaked with white and black.

Reptiles, amphibians and frogs

Snakes, lizards and turtles are at home here everywhere: in mythology, on ancient coins and right in the heart of Athens. For example, in the garden of the Museum of Popular Musical Instruments, you will be greeted by the venerable Greek tortoise (Testudo gareca). This close relative of Hermann's turtle is the most common local species. It is found along the coast with the hawksbill turtle (Testudo marginata), which can be recognised by the flared ends of its shell. In addition to the rare loggerhead sea turtle (see above), there are two freshwater aquatic species: the cistude ( Emys orbicularis), spotted, and the Caspian emid (Mauremys caspica), decorated with lines. On the snake side, there are 23 species here, most of them harmless snakes. Five types of vipers are dangerous to humans who disturb them: the Ottoman viper (Montivipera xanthina), found in Thrace and the northern Aegean islands, the Milos viper (Macrovipera schweizeri), the most endangered species in Europe and found in the Cyclades, the amodyte viper (Vipera amodytes), common to all the Balkans and equipped with a horn, the peliad viper ( Vipera berus), on the border with Northern Macedonia, and the Orsini's viper (Vipera ursinii ) established in the Pindos massif. You will most certainly notice the lizards, which are very different from those of Western Europe. An endemic species of the Balkans, the wall lizard (Podarcis erhardii) is the most common, but it has adapted to its environment to give rise to subspecies such as the Skyros lizard (Podarcis gaigeae). There is also the huge green lizard (Lacerta viridis) as well as different species of salamanders, geckos and orvets. And, near the site of the Battle of Navarin, in Gialova (Peloponnese), there is the only species of chameleon in Europe, the Chamaeleo africanus, which comes from the Sahel and reaches 34 cm in length. Finally, among the batrachians, two endemic species should be noted: the rare Greek frog (Rana graeca), which lives in the mountains of the Balkans, and the epirote frog (Pelophylax epeiroticus), appreciated by gourmets on both sides of the border with Albania.

Focus on mammals

This is probably the part of the animal kingdom in Greece that offers the fewest surprises for the visitor from Western Europe. The wild mammals are in fact more or less the same: squirrels, chamois, weasels, deer, hedgehogs, foxes, etc. However, the presence of rare species in Europe should be noted: African wild cat (Felis lybica) in Crete, golden jackal (Canis aureus moreotica), with about 1,000 individuals in mainland Greece and on the island of Samos, Rhodesian fallow deer attached to the European fallow deer (Dama dama ) but smaller and native to Asia. Greece is also home to a large number of endemic species of bats. Unfortunately, these are now threatened by the proliferation of wind turbines. And, as in the rest of the Balkans, the brown bear (Ursus arctos ) and the grey wolf (Canis lupus ) have been relatively well preserved. These two predators even enjoy state protection here. There are between 190 and 260 free-ranging bears in the Rodhopes and Pindos, as well as about a thousand wolves, mainly in Central Greece. On the other hand, the Balkan lynx (Lynx lynx balcanicus) may have disappeared from the country since the 2000s and the last 40 individuals are now found in Northern Macedonia and Albania.

About insects and arachnids

Beetles with multicoloured reflections, splendid dragonflies, noisy cicadas, bees better preserved than in Western Europe... But it is the mosquitoes that are the talk of the town. Of all the animals in Greece, the common mosquito(Culex pipiens) is by far the most dangerous species, since it is the main vector of the West Nile virus, which is blamed for the death of 50 people in the country in 2018. The spread of the virus is unprecedented and now (in summer) affects the entire country. As there is no treatment, precautions should be taken: long, light-coloured clothes in the evening, insecticide, mosquito nets on windows. In another, lighter register, Greece is a delight for lepidopterists: butterfly specialists have identified nearly 3,200 different species. Of course, most of these are moths. But some tourists come here just to admire the 235 species of butterflies, 30 of which are endemic. As a result, there are agencies that offer specialised trips to both the Peloponnese and Macedonia. And several "butterfly valleys" have hatched in Rhodes (the most famous site), Crete, Paros or Halki. Finally, arachnids do not present any particular risk. On the one hand, no need to worry about local spider bites, and on the other hand, even if scorpions are numerous, only one of the 32 local species, the Mesobuthus gibbosus, has a venom that is dangerous for humans in case of allergy. However, no notable scorpion-related incidents have been reported in Greece in recent years.