The Fado
Portuguese music is above all associated with the fado. Derived from the Latin word for "fate"(fatum), this melancholy song with its rough poetry expresses a variety of feelings linked to love, death and exile. Its origins are still open to debate, and no one is quite sure where it comes from: goualante from ports, in a city where sailors discovered the whole world, a local evolution of Moorish song, gypsy lament and vocal modulations from brought-back Brazilian rhythms? In all likelihood, a little of both. The most famous of the fadistas, Amália Rodrigues, died in 2000 and was immediately buried in the national pantheon. When she was alive, she could move an audience to tears with her humanity-laden singing, which underlined the subtle timbre of her voice. But fado has evolved, and new artists have emerged on a scene full of dynamism and vitality. If Madredeus, with the moving voice of its fantastic singer Teresa Salgueiro, has spread an excellent folk and world music reinterpretation all over the planet, the elegant Cristina Branco and Mariza are rediscovering and reviving the genre with a certain grace. But we can also mention Camané, Dulce Pontes, Bevinda, Mísia, Anabela Duarte, Ana Moura, whom Prince launched and who collaborated with the Rolling Stones, or António Zambujo, as famous in Brazil as he is in his own country.
Fado can be heard in fado houses. The musical renewal of the genre has also spawned a new generation of fado houses. While the venue is still suitable for tourists, the quality has improved and the folkloric experience has become more playful, so much so that these places are now sometimes also frequented by Lisboans, in search of a little of their country's soul. In Lisbon, fado singer Ana Marina and guitarist Duarte Santos have created Senhor Fado, a welcoming venue typical of what you'd expect from a modern fado house. The more traditional Fado in Chiado offers a one-hour show every day. You can also consult the city of Lisbon's cultural calendar, where concerts by fado singers are announced. In summer, it's not unusual to find free concerts organized by the Lisbon Town Hall. Many tascas and restaurants where you can dine or just have a drink remain the best places to discover it. Don't hesitate to ask the locals, who will be your best advisers.
But Fado is not exclusive to Lisbon. The old town of Coimbra has also developed its own style: only men are allowed to sing. You'll find them outside the bars, under the ancient arches and in the city squares.
Classical music and theater
Portugal first shone during the Baroque period, thanks to composers such as Manuel Rodrigues Coelho, Duarte Lobo and above all Carlos de Seixas. The latter, a major musical figure and Portugal's greatest 18th-century harpsichord composer, became a talented organist and outstanding teacher at an early age. A prolific composer, he wrote over 700 toccatas. Today, his works can be admired at Lisbon's National Library. At the turn of the 20th century, a new wave of composers followed in the footsteps of pianist and composer José Vianna da Motta. Luis Freitas de Branco, who contributed to the recognition of Portuguese art music, as well as Fernando Lopes-Graça, Francisco de Lacerda and Ruy Coelho, all contributed to the development of their country's music. A pupil of Luis de Freitas Branco, Joly Braga Santos was the greatest composer of his generation, creating six symphonies, several operas and chamber music, as well as film scores.
For music lovers, Lisbon boasts several major venues dedicated to classical music. The Teatro Nacional de São Carlos, the city's main theater, had its heyday with the famous performances of La Traviata with Callas in 1958. Situated in the historic center on a charming little square, it offers above all quality shows at a low price, compared with other opera houses elsewhere in Europe. It's a great place to make new discoveries. Two other important theaters mark the life of Lisbon: the Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II, a neoclassical theater located on Praça do Rossio, and the Teatro São Luíz, a municipal theater that develops more varied cultural activities. The Coliseu dos Recreios, a magnificent concert hall dating from 1890, offers Lisboans recitals by great local and international classical musicians. The new Centro Cultural de Belém is home to the city's symphony orchestra and offers a rich and varied program, as does the not-to-be-missed Fondation Calouste Gulbenkian and its first-rate Orchestra Gulbenkian. Fans of classical and contemporary dance will flock to the Teatro de Camões, home to the Companhia Nacional de Bailado. The artistic offerings of this national ballet company, the Belém Cultural Centre and the Gulbenkian Foundation are world-class and offer the opportunity to attend top-quality performances.
In Porto, the Casa da Música (House of Music) is a concert hall designed by Rem Koolhaas and opened in 2005. Located in the Boavista district, this building with its oblique lines and large volumes has become one of the city's icons. In its two auditoriums with excellent acoustics, the Casa da Música offers classical, folk and jazz concerts.
Jazz in Portugal
Although often reserved for the elite, there's no shortage of jazz fans in Portugal. If you're looking for a classic jazz experience, the Hot Clube Portugal is a Lisbon institution. Founded in 1948, the club has remained true to its roots. This venue, next door to the historic club that burned down in 2009, has hosted some of the world's greatest jazz musicians. The club is associated with the Luiz Villas-Boas jazz school, from which talented Portuguese musicians such as Ricardo Jacinto and Luís Vicente have emerged. Another classic club, with a jazz program from the 1930s to the 1950s, Páginas Tantas has established itself as a comfortable, select club. The Alface Hall, also in Bairro Alto, just a minute's walk from the previous club, is a lively club with live jazz every night. This café-concert hall may not look like much, but go there for the particularly warm atmosphere. You'll be enthralled by the excellent musicians interacting with the audience. On the outskirts of Lisbon, in the town of Parede, the SMUP (for Sociedade Musical União Paredense) also offers interesting concerts.
Since 2006, the Out Jazz festival has offered free jazz concerts every Sunday from May to mid-September. Jazz em Agosto, or Jazz in August, is a festival for jazz lovers, held near the Calouste Gulbenkian Garden. Finally, if you're looking for something a little more alternative, head for Damas, located in rua Voz do Operário. The trendy Damas offers live music throughout the week, with a focus on experimental jazz. During the day, the place is a restaurant. Near Lisbon, in the town of Cascais, EDP Cool Jazz offers several evenings of jazz, soul and pop, in superb settings such as the Parque Marechal Carmona and the Hipódromo Manuel Possolo.
In autumn, the Jazz ao Centro-Encontros Internacionais festival is organized in Coimbra by a local association that also runs the Salão Brazil jazz club. This student town, located halfway between Lisbon and Porto, is particularly active in the dissemination of jazz in Portugal. In summer, the Quebra Jazz Festival is organized by the managers of the bar of the same name.
In February, Porto is the place to go for jazz concerts at the Porta Jazz Festival. Then, in spring, you can head to central Portugal, to Portalegre, for the JazzFest, which presents an innovative and eclectic program every year, showcasing the young Portuguese scene.
The rock and the song
Beyond Fado, Portugal has spawned many interesting artists! These include, of course, singer-songwriter Rui Veloso, whose lyrical, intelligent lyrics have accompanied the Portuguese in their daily lives for three decades. Militant singer Zeca Afonso also offered his audience songs of revolt which, in their own way, helped bring about the Carnation Revolution. The Gaiteiros de Lisboa, a collective that draws on folklore for the most poignant of results, are also worth a mention. Danças Ocultas is an original quartet of diatonic accordionists whose artistic director is none other than Gabriel Gomes, a former Madredeus, as is Rodrigo Leão, who is pursuing a solo career as a composer of inspired contemporary music. The discography of Maria João and Mario Laginha should also be followed. The former has an exceptional voice, while the latter accompanies her with finesse.
On the rock front, the legendary Xutos e Pontapés, with their fiery stage performances, Santos & Pecadores, recognizable by the husky voice of their singer Olavo Bilac, and UHF, who emerged from the 1970s scene, have dominated the scene for over thirty years... GNR (Grupo Novo Rock) emerged from the new wave scene of the 1980s. Lately, the pop-rock of A Naifa, Blasted Mechanism and its otherworldly costumes, the instrumental music group Dead Combo, or The Legendary Tigerman and the Wraygunn and their atypical universes have been making headlines, just like António Variações, an original and unclassifiable character, a meteorite of the 1980s. The Porto scene is alive and kicking thanks to Papercutz, First Breath After Coma, Best Youth Coma and Holy Nothing.
For live music in Lisbon, head for Galeria Zé dos Bois (ZDB). Both a contemporary art gallery and concert venue with a basement club, ZDB boasts a good international line-up. Big names such as Thurston Moore of Sonic Youth and Animal Collective have already played there. Lisbon is one of Portugal's prime venues for outdoor music festivals. The famous Rock in Rio Lisboa, inspired by the festival of the same name in Brazil, takes place every two years. The Super Bock Super Rock also features top international artists on Meco beach, south of Lisbon. Meanwhile, Barcelona's NOS Primavera Sound invites the same artists to Porto, in a large green park. The selection ranges from indie music to hip-hop and electro stars.
Hip-hop, kuduro and kizomba, influences from Africa
From the second half of the 1990s, Lisbon suburbs such as Cova da Moura or Chelas, where the majority of working-class African immigrants reside, began to make themselves heard, with the hip-hop of Da Weasel, Boss AC or Conjunto Ngonguenha, while Mind Da Gap emerged in Porto. Then in the early 2000s, the new generation adopted kuduro, a musical genre from Angola that draws its influences from rap. The lyrics of the songs are simple and full of humor and derision. The lyrics are simple, humorous and derisive, and they challenge the dancers' legs as well as their heads, since kuduro is also a social protest from the slums. The group Buraka Som Sistema embodies with efficiency the kuduro Portuguese version since 2006.
Afro-house, kuduro, kizomba, baile funk, fado...: the music you hear when you go out in Lisbon makes the experience totally new. If you go to Lisbon clubs like Dock's Club, you can't avoid Afro-house, house music with African rhythms. This is not a purely Lusophone musical style, as it can be found in South Africa and other English-speaking African countries. A real African electronic music scene has emerged in recent years in the capital of Portugal. For an original and totally different experience, go to the Mwangolé or the Chiado Club in the Alcantara neighborhood, two places that invite you to dance the night away. Havana Soul, a small but authentic bar located along the Tejo River, also offers excellent kizomba in a relaxed setting. Barrio Latino is one of Lisbon's most popular dance venues. Located in Santos, along the Tagus River, one of the liveliest nightlife areas, the atmosphere is guaranteed. Barrio Latino has two dance floors and the music varies every night. On Thursdays, the club often offers Kizomba nights. For an introduction, Jazzy Dance Studios, one of the city's most popular dance schools, also offers its Sunday Jazzy Sessions, salsa and African dance classes, every Sunday from 5pm.
Electronic music
Fans of jet-setting, glitter and electronic music can explore the capital's nightclubs. MusicBox and Lux Frágil are two popular spots offering a mix of international electronic hits. The latter's fame lies in the fact that it is co-owned by American actor John Malkovich. Located in the Nova do Carvalho street, in the Cais do Sodré district, MusicBox is a nightclub, a music scene, a lounge and a bar all in one. To be able to pass its wooden door, you will have to wait in a long queue. The trick is then to come first to the concert of the beginning of the evening. This club offers an eclectic program, but quite sharp. Another place that offers interesting music is Titanic Sur Mer, which hosts live music as well as DJ sets that can last until late at night. The place is known for its samba (for which it offers classes) and for its musical workshops.
In Porto, PLAN B is the epicenter of the nightlife. This former textile factory in the Baixa district, with its retro decor, has been converted into a multipurpose cultural center. You will find concerts, but also exhibitions or artistic projections.
In summer, Portugal hosts some of the biggest electronic music events in Europe. In this genre, Tomorrowland is one of the most famous festivals in the world. This festival born in Belgium has been exported to the Parque Oriental da Cidade in Porto in 2019. In Portimão, The BPM Festival has a rich program of underground house and techno. Organized by the radio of the same name, RFM Somnii takes place on the beach of Figueira da Foz and offers three days of house, drum'n'bass and rap. In Viana do Castelo, the Neopop Festival has also become a reference with artists of the caliber of Underworld, Richie Hawtin or Jeff Mills.
