The Fado
Portuguese music is still primarily associated with fado. Derived from the Latin word for "fate"(fatum), this melancholic song with its rough poetry expresses a variety of feelings related to love, death and exile. Its origins are still debatable and no one knows exactly where it comes from: goualante of ports, in a city where sailors discovered the whole world, local evolution of Moorish song, gypsy lament and vocal modulations from brought back Brazilian rhythms? Probably a bit of all of this. The most famous fadista, Amália Rodrigues, died in 2000 and was immediately buried in the national pantheon. When she was alive, she could move an audience to tears, as her singing, full of humanity, underlined the subtle timbre of her voice. But Fado has evolved and new artists have appeared in a scene full of dynamism and vitality. If Madredeus, and the moving voice of its fantastic singer Teresa Salgueiro, knew how to propagate an excellent folk and world music reinterpretation on the whole planet, the very elegant Cristina Branco or Mariza rediscover and make revive the genre with a certain grace. But we can also mention Camané, Dulce Pontes, Bevinda, Mísia, António Zambujo, Anabela Duarte, Ana Moura, whom Prince launched and who collaborated with the Rolling Stones, or Antonio Zambujo, as famous in Brazil as in his country.
Fado is heard in fado houses. The musical renewal of the genre has also generated a new generation of fado houses. If the place is still suitable for tourists, the quality has improved and the folkloric experience has become more playful, so that these places are now sometimes also frequented by Lisboners, looking for a bit of the soul of their country. In Lisbon, fado singer Ana Marina and guitarist Duarte Santos have created Senhor Fado, a welcoming place, typical of what you would expect from a modern fado house. More classic, Fado in Chiado offers a one-hour show every day. You can also check the cultural agenda of the city of Lisbon where the concerts of fado singers are announced. In summer, it is not uncommon to find free concerts organized by the Lisbon City Council. Many tascas and restaurants where it is possible to have dinner or just a drink are the best places to discover it. Don't hesitate to ask the locals, who will be your best advisors.
Fado is not exclusive to Lisbon. The old city of Coimbra has also developed its own style: only men are allowed to sing. You will find them outside the bars, under the old arches and in the squares of the city.
Classical music and theater
Portugal first shone during the Baroque period, thanks to composers such as Manuel Rodrigues Coelho, Duarte Lobo and above all Carlos de Seixas. The latter, a major musical figure and Portugal's greatest 18th-century harpsichord composer, became a talented organist and outstanding teacher at an early age. A prolific composer, he wrote over 700 toccatas. Today, his works can be admired at Lisbon's National Library. At the turn of the 20th century, a new wave of composers followed in the footsteps of pianist and composer José Vianna da Motta. Luis Freitas de Branco, who contributed to the recognition of Portuguese art music, as well as Fernando Lopes-Graça, Francisco de Lacerda and Ruy Coelho, all contributed to the development of their country's music. A pupil of Luis de Freitas Branco, Joly Braga Santos was the greatest composer of his generation, creating six symphonies, several operas and chamber music, as well as film scores.
For music lovers, Lisbon boasts several major venues dedicated to classical music. The Teatro Nacional de São Carlos, the city's main theater, had its heyday with the famous performances of La Traviata with Callas in 1958. Situated in the historic center on a charming little square, it offers above all quality shows at a low price, compared with other opera houses elsewhere in Europe. It's a great place to make new discoveries. Two other important theaters mark the life of Lisbon: the Teatro Nacional Dona Maria II, a neoclassical theater located on Praça do Rossio, and the Teatro São Luíz, a municipal theater that develops more varied cultural activities. The Coliseu dos Recreios, a magnificent concert hall dating from 1890, offers Lisboans recitals by great local and international classical musicians. The new Centro Cultural de Belém is home to the city's symphony orchestra and offers a rich and varied program, as does the not-to-be-missed Fondation Calouste Gulbenkian and its first-rate Orchestra Gulbenkian. Fans of classical and contemporary dance will flock to the Teatro de Camões, home to the Companhia Nacional de Bailado. The artistic offerings of this national ballet company, the Belém Cultural Centre and the Gulbenkian Foundation are world-class and offer the opportunity to attend top-quality performances.
In Porto, the Casa da Música (House of Music) is a concert hall designed by Rem Koolhaas and opened in 2005. Located in the Boavista district, this building with its oblique lines and large volumes has become one of the city's icons. In its two auditoriums with excellent acoustics, the Casa da Música offers classical, folk and jazz concerts.
Jazz in Portugal
Although often reserved for the elite, there's no shortage of jazz fans in Portugal. If you're looking for a classic jazz experience, the Hot Clube Portugal is a Lisbon institution. Founded in 1948, the club has remained true to its roots. This venue, next door to the historic club that burned down in 2009, has hosted some of the world's greatest jazz musicians. The club is associated with the Luiz Villas-Boas jazz school, from which talented Portuguese musicians such as Ricardo Jacinto and Luís Vicente have emerged. Another classic club, with jazz programming from the 1930s to the 1950s, Páginas Tantas has established itself as a comfortable, select club. You'll come here to listen to the music and relax in a subdued atmosphere. In a different atmosphere, the Alface Hall, also in Bairro Alto, just a minute's walk from the previous club, is a lively club offering live jazz music every evening. This café-concert hall may not look like much, but go there for the particularly warm atmosphere. You'll be enthralled by the excellent musicians interacting with the audience. On the outskirts of Lisbon, in the town of Parede, the SMUP (for Sociedade Musical União Paredense) also offers interesting concerts. Cellist Ricardo Jacinto is in charge of the venue's programming.
Since 2006, the Out Jazz festival has offered free jazz concerts every Sunday from May to mid-September. Jazz em Agosto, or Jazz in August, is a festival for jazz lovers, held near the Calouste Gulbenkian Garden. Finally, if you're looking for something a little more alternative, head for Damas, located in rua Voz do Operário. The trendy Damas offers live music throughout the week, with a focus on experimental jazz. During the day, the place is a restaurant. Near Lisbon, in the town of Cascais, EDP Cool Jazz offers several evenings of jazz, soul and pop, in superb settings such as the Parque Marechal Carmona and the Hipódromo Manuel Possolo.
In autumn, the Jazz ao Centro-Encontros Internacionais festival is organized in Coimbra by a local association that also runs the Salão Brazil jazz club. This student town, located halfway between Lisbon and Porto, is particularly active in the dissemination of jazz in Portugal. In summer, the Quebra Jazz Festival is organized by the managers of the bar of the same name.
In February, Porto is the place to go for jazz concerts at the Porta Jazz Festival. Then, in spring, you can head to central Portugal, to Portalegre, for the JazzFest, which presents an innovative and eclectic program every year, showcasing the young Portuguese scene.
The rock and the song
Beyond Fado, Portugal has spawned many interesting artists! These include, of course, singer-songwriter Rui Veloso, whose lyrical, intelligent lyrics have accompanied the Portuguese in their daily lives for three decades. Militant singer Zeca Afonso also offered his audience songs of revolt which, in their own way, helped bring about the Carnation Revolution. The Gaiteiros de Lisboa, a collective that draws on folklore for a most poignant result, are also worth noting. Danças Ocultas is an original quartet of diatonic accordionists whose artistic director is none other than Gabriel Gomes, a former Madredeus, as is Rodrigo Leão, who is pursuing a solo career as a composer of inspired contemporary music. The discography of Maria João and Mario Laginha should also be followed. The former has an exceptional voice, while the latter accompanies her with finesse.
On the rock front, the legendary Xutos e Pontapés, with their fiery stage performances, Santos & Pecadores, recognizable by the husky voice of their singer Olavo Bilac, and UHF, who emerged from the 1970s scene, have dominated the scene for over thirty years... GNR (Grupo Novo Rock) emerged from the new wave scene of the 1980s. Lately, the pop-rock of A Naifa, Blasted Mechanism and its otherworldly costumes, the instrumental music group Dead Combo, or The Legendary Tigerman and the Wraygunn and their atypical universes have been making headlines, just like António Variações, an original and unclassifiable character, a meteorite of the 1980s. The Porto scene is alive and kicking thanks to Papercutz, First Breath After Coma, Best Youth Coma and Holy Nothing.
For live music in Lisbon, head for Galeria Zé dos Bois (ZDB). Both a contemporary art gallery and concert venue with a basement club, ZDB boasts a good international line-up. Big names such as Thurston Moore of Sonic Youth and Animal Collective have already played there. Lisbon is one of Portugal's prime venues for outdoor music festivals. The famous Rock in Rio Lisboa, inspired by the festival of the same name in Brazil, takes place every two years. The Super Bock Super Rock also features top international artists on Meco beach, south of Lisbon. Meanwhile, Barcelona's NOS Primavera Sound invites the same artists to Porto, in a large green park. The selection ranges from indie music to hip-hop and electro stars.
Hip-hop, kuduro and kizomba, influences from Africa
From the second half of the 1990s, Lisbon suburbs such as Cova da Moura or Chelas, where the majority of working-class African immigrants reside, began to make themselves heard, with the hip-hop of Da Weasel, Boss AC or Conjunto Ngonguenha, while Mind Da Gap emerged in Porto. Then in the early 2000s, the new generation adopted kuduro, a musical genre from Angola that draws its influences from rap. The lyrics of the songs are simple and full of humor and derision. The lyrics are simple, humorous and derisive, and they challenge the dancers' legs as well as their heads, since kuduro is also a social protest from the slums. The group Buraka Som Sistema embodies with efficiency the kuduro Portuguese version since 2006.
Afro-house, kuduro, kizomba, baile funk, fado...: the music you hear when you go out in Lisbon makes the experience totally new. If you go to Lisbon clubs like Dock's Club, you can't avoid Afro-house, house music with African rhythms. This is not a purely Lusophone musical style, as it can be found in South Africa and other English-speaking African countries. A real African electronic music scene has emerged in recent years in the capital of Portugal. For an original and totally different experience, go to the Mwangolé or the Chiado Club in the Alcantara neighborhood, two places that invite you to dance the night away. Havana Soul, a small but authentic bar located along the Tejo River, also offers excellent kizomba in a relaxed setting. Barrio Latino is one of Lisbon's most popular dance venues. Located in Santos, along the Tagus River, one of the liveliest nightlife areas, the atmosphere is guaranteed. Barrio Latino has two dance floors and the music varies every night. On Thursdays, the club often offers Kizomba nights. For an introduction, Jazzy Dance Studios, one of the city's most popular dance schools, also offers its Sunday Jazzy Sessions, salsa and African dance classes, every Sunday from 5pm.
Electronic music
Fans of jet-setting, glitter and electronic music can explore the capital's nightclubs. MusicBox and Lux Frágil are two popular spots offering a mix of international electronic hits. The latter's fame lies in the fact that it is co-owned by American actor John Malkovich. Located in the Nova do Carvalho street, in the Cais do Sodré district, MusicBox is a nightclub, a music scene, a lounge and a bar all in one. To be able to pass its wooden door, you will have to wait in a long queue. The trick is then to come first to the concert of the beginning of the evening. This club offers an eclectic program, but quite sharp. Another place that offers interesting music is Titanic Sur Mer, which hosts live music as well as DJ sets that can last until late at night. The place is known for its samba (for which it offers classes) and for its musical workshops.
In Porto, PLAN B is the epicenter of the nightlife. This former textile factory in the Baixa district, with its retro decor, has been converted into a multipurpose cultural center. You will find concerts, but also exhibitions or artistic projections.
In summer, Portugal hosts some of the biggest electronic music events in Europe. In this genre, Tomorrowland is one of the most famous festivals in the world. This festival born in Belgium has been exported to the Parque Oriental da Cidade in Porto in 2019. In Portimão, The BPM Festival has a rich program of underground house and techno. Organized by the radio of the same name, RFM Somnii takes place on the beach of Figueira da Foz and offers three days of house, drum'n'bass and rap. In Viana do Castelo, the Neopop Festival has also become a reference with artists of the caliber of Underworld, Richie Hawtin or Jeff Mills.
