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A hiker's paradise

With its 40 national parks, Finland is a hiker's paradise! Most have information centers, shelters, fire pits, camping areas and, in some cases, refuges. Many hikes take you through uninhabited regions: so take a map, compass, matches and, of course, food. The whole country is criss-crossed with itineraries of varying length and difficulty. Detailed maps are available from tourist offices in every province. While there are many possibilities throughout the country, Lapland remains the region of choice for hikers, with itstunturis (mountains) and vast stretches of desert. June, August and especially September, during ruska (the fabulous Lappish autumn), are the best times to hike. Mosquitoes are rife in July, so be sure to bring mosquito repellent. You'll find chalets on the busiest trails, which you should book in advance.

South and West. Nature is rich, forests dense, lakes and ponds numerous. Parks to explore include Nuuksio National Park, thirty minutes from downtown Helsinki, the Teijo and Evo hiking areas in the south, or Isojärvi National Park, near Lake Päijänne, in the west. Forests, lakes and high, steep hills alternate with long, narrow valleys. Also worth seeing are Helvetinjärvi National Park, with its deep canyons; Seitseminen National Park and, a little further north, Pyhähäkki.

East. The terrain is more rugged. There are also many large swamps. Linnansaari National Park is typical of these Finnish lake regions. Beautiful views from Mount Linnavuori over the islands of Lake Saimaa. Also worth a visit is Reposaari National Park, 150 km from Helsinki, with its beautiful forests and the waters of the Kymijoki River.

The North. The forests are less dense, the landscapes more open. The plateaus of the Lapland Mountains are ideal for hikers, with sumptuous views from the peaks. Unspoilt nature as far as the eye can see... You can start at Kuusamo, in the Oulanka National Park, with its rapids and gorges. Sports enthusiasts will prefer the 75-80 km Bear Circuit. Further north, the landscape is more mountainous, as witness the Pyhätunturi, Urho Kekkonen and Lemmenjoki national parks or the Kevo canyon. In the north-west, Kilpisjärvi boasts the country's highest peaks (Mount Halti at over 1,300 m). And don't miss the enigmatic Saana, the sacred mountain of the Sami people.

For further information. The National Parks website(www.nationalparks.fi) is a valuable ally for hikers discovering Finnish nature.

On foot, but also on horseback, by bike, by boat..

If Finland is a favorite destination for hikers, there are many other ways to enjoy its flamboyant nature in summer.

Horseback riding. Open to all levels and accessible all year round. Horses are used to galloping through snow and across frozen lakes. Expeditions ranging from a few hours to several days are available. You can stay in small log cabins or in the farmhouses near the stables.

Cycling. Finland is a cyclist's dream: suitable trails, gentle terrain, bike rentals throughout the country, plenty of accommodation (camping, farms, bed & breakfasts), and guaranteed peace and quiet... In addition to the main routes, you can visit the cities by bike: the tourist offices in the major cities will provide you with routes and a map of the cycle paths. The King's Highway along Finland's southern coast, the Åland Islands, the Turku archipelago, Lake Saimaa, Mount Koli and the island of Manamansaalo are all magnificent and easy to cycle. In Lapland, the routes are much more rugged.

Sailing. Sailing and motorboating are very popular. The south-west coast, the Turku archipelago and the Åland Islands, with their indented shores dotted with a myriad of islets and reefs, are ideal for summer yachting. Sailing is also practiced in the Helsinki region and in the Gulf of Bothnia. Most coastal and lakeside towns have marinas.

Canoeing. There are turbulent rapids for the more experienced, and much calmer stretches for beginners. Thousands of lakes offer endless possibilities. This extraordinary labyrinth of lakes allows you to admire unique landscapes through extremely clear, often drinkable, water. You can also reach most Finnish towns by water. Lake Saimaa is the most popular, departing from Puumala. By sea, the archipelagos in south-west Finland, the Åland Islands, and the two national parks in the south, Saaristomeri and Tammisaari, are famous for canoeing.

Fishing and hunting. With over 60 species of fish (salmon, rainbow trout, perch, zander, lavaret, whitefish, Baltic herring, flounder...), 190,000 lakes, thousands of rivers and 1,100 km of coastline, fishing is one of the Finns' favorite pastimes. Two permits are required: a national fishing permit, which can be purchased at any post office (approx. €10), and a local permit, issued by the owners of the fishing waters (the price depends on the reputation of the waters). It's very easy to hire a small motorboat and fishing tackle on the lakes. A local guide can also take you out. If you're staying in a small cottage, a boat and tackle are always at your disposal.

For hunting, too, a French permit is essential: you can obtain the local equivalent at a Finnish police station. You should also respect the hunting seasons.

Golf. The open spaces and long, bright summer days are a golfer's delight. There are around twenty main golf courses, mainly in the southern half of the country and on the Åland Islands. You can play late into the evening under the midnight sun.

In winter, the great adventure

Snow-covered Finland offers a wide range of winter activities. Cross-country skiing and, to a much lesser extent, downhill skiing are practised almost everywhere in Finland. The best-known resorts are located in the north and east of the country, where snow cover is constant and abundant. However, the low altitude limits downhill skiing. The biggest ski resorts in Finland are Messilä (near Lahti), Himos (near Jämsä), Tahko, Vuokatti, Ruka, Pyhä, Ylläs, Levi, Luosto and Saariselkä.

Cross-country skiing. Little Finns almost learn to talk on cross-country skis... It's practised all over the country, and particularly in Lapland, in the heart of the polar solitudes that are always so captivating. The season generally runs from November to the end of March in the south and central regions. In the North, it starts in October and doesn't end until mid-May, when the sun shines fourteen hours a day! Cross-country enthusiasts extend their efforts in summer on roller skis. There are tens of thousands of kilometers of marked, groomed and free trails in Finland. In the Urho Kaleva Kekkonen National Park near Saariselkä, good snow conditions are guaranteed.

Ski touring. Most hiking trails can also be skied. Some Lapland raids even cross frozen lakes. Lake Inari, for example, is an unforgettable experience, reaching into the regions close to Russia where the Sami people (skolts) live. Renting chalets in the heart of nature makes the excursion even more enjoyable.

Ice skating. The best place in Finland to ice-skate on frozen lakes is in the Savonlinna region, with a route from Oravi through the Linnansaari National Park to Rantasalmi (up to 60 km round trip) or from the Järvisydän complex in Oravi for 18 km. On the way, stop off on Linnansaari island to grill sausages. A superb experience.

Snowshoeing. Take the time to walk at nature's pace, like the first inhabitants of the Far North, with this traditional way of getting around. You can also pull a pulka (sometimes with the help of a sled dog) and spend several days bivouacking.

Snowmobiles. The snowmobile has replaced the pulka, the traditional reindeer-drawn sled. Fast and practical, it has been adopted by all Finns living in the countryside, particularly in Lapland. The downside of speed: noise. There are well-marked, well-signposted trails in several regions, some of them lit up at night. You can choose a short trip, or longer expeditions lasting from one to several days (the organizer always provides the equipment).

Dog- or reindeer-sledding tours. There's nothing more exciting than driving a team of Siberian huskies through the wide open spaces covered in snow. It is, however, a truly intense sporting activity. Physical fitness is a must! Reindeer sleds ( pulkas) are less demanding and quieter. This activity is mainly practiced in Karelia and Lapland.

Fishing. Pilkki (fishing through the ice) is practiced on frozen lakes. A hole is first drilled in the ice, and the fish, attracted by the light, take the hook while the cold bites the angler. Of course, there's no shortage of good fishing spots: in Kotka, the Kymijoki River is renowned for its salmon, in the Turku archipelago, or on lakes Päijänne, Saimaa and Pielinen. In Lapland, the Utsjoki River is renowned for its salmon, as is Ruka, near Kuusamo. Worth a try!