From the airport to the city centre New Caledonia
When you arrive in Noumea (La Tontouta airport - www.aeroports.cci.nc/fr/tontouta), we strongly advise you to book your transfer in advance. First of all, because you don't have much choice and secondly, given the fatigue of the trip, you will be happy to save time and be taken care of quickly. Our favorite is the company Arc en Ciel (www.arcenciel.nc) in Noumea which takes care of everything and offers private or group transfers, depending on your budget. There is also the company Lyvai (www.lyvai.com).
It takes 45 minutes to get to the city center and at least 1 hour to get to the Magenta airport.
For inter-island connections, you will take off from Magenta airport, close to the city center. Count on 30 minutes flight time to the Isle of Pines, 45 minutes to Lifou, 40 minutes to Ouvéa or Maré.
Arrival by train New Caledonia
Obviously, it is impossible to reach New Caledonia by train. However, at that time, New Caledonia had 400 kilometers of railroads. Many locomotives were used mainly for mining. In 1936 the "Nouméa-Paita" route disappeared, to the benefit of trucks. Some associations would like to see this section revived... To be continued!
Arrival by boat New Caledonia
It is possible to reach the Isle of Pines (2h30), Maré (4h) and Lifou (5h30) on board the catamaran Betico 2, which is the only boat offering passenger connections. Cheaper than air travel, this mode of transportation is not without its drawbacks: the trip is much longer and rotations are frequently cancelled at the last minute due to the weather (www.betico.nc/fr).
Public transport New Caledonia
Nouméa has three bus companies that serve respectively: the urban network, the suburban network, and the bush. Unfortunately, there is no public transport on the islands.
Karuïa bus serves the whole of Nouméa. Even if the frequency is a bit low and the services stop in the early evening, these buses are convenient to reach the Baie des Citrons, Anse Vata, the Tjibaou Cultural Center as well as the Magenta airfield from the main bus station of Port Moselle.
Carsud serves the Noumea suburban network to the communes of Païta, Dumbéa and Mont-Dore. It is important to note that this is the only company that serves the La Tontouta airport. The bus stations are located in Montravel and rue Demazures in the city center, opposite the ferry terminal.
R.A.I (Réseau d'autocars interurbains) serves almost all the communes of Grande Terre from the Port Moselle bus station in Nouméa. The buses are new and comfortable, the frequency is quite good for most destinations, and the prices are more than reasonable. A very good option for small budgets who wish to travel around Grande Terre at a lower cost.
Bike, scooters & co New Caledonia
Grande Terre : given the speed at which Caledonians drive and the number of deaths on the roads each year, not to mention the lack of civility shown by motorists towards two-wheelers, Grande Terre is far from being the ideal place for the latter. The South road is particularly not recommended for motorcyclists because of the sporadic stoning that takes place around the tribe of Saint Louis.
The islands: the distances and the relief are suitable for two-wheeler rides on the Isle of Pines and Ouvéa, where it is possible to rent bikes and scooters. On Maré, distances are longer and only scooters are recommended. As for the island of Lifou, which is as big as Martinique, it is not suitable for either, and has no two-wheeler rental company.
With a driver New Caledonia
Cabs are concentrated in Noumea. Their green and white cars are parked downtown, at Anse Vata and at the Magenta airfield. After 7pm, they are the only way to get around, as bus services stop at that time.
By car New Caledonia
The direction of traffic in downtown Nouméa was completely changed in 2008 to improve traffic flow. Once you are familiar with the little subtleties of orientation, everything is fine! Note that most Nouméans of driving age have a car. The city is indeed quite spread out (1 hour walk between the city center and Anse Vata) and public transportation is not very dense. On the rest of Grande Terre, the network is constantly improving. It is now possible to go around the island by car, except for some tracks in the South and East where caution is required (especially after heavy rains). The passage from west to east requires the crossing of more or less steep passes with often very winding roads. The speed limit is 50 km/h in the city, as in France, and 110 km/h outside the cities.
We particularly advise against driving at night. Pedestrians can walk along the roads and animals in the wild naturally cross without warning!
Drinking and driving remains a real problem in New Caledonia. So be especially careful on weekends and during the wedding season. Please note that the sale of alcohol at retail is prohibited from Friday noon to Monday noon.
Residents drive very fast, both on the road and on the track, and accidents are unfortunately frequent. Take vehicles that are in perfect condition. Very important: make sure you have a spare tire and a jack when you rent your car. In case of a flat tire, call the nearest garage and give the references written on your tire. The garage has time to get organized and to get the right model. This is also a good way to avoid finding a closed door (especially on weekends). In order to be reimbursed by the rental agency, you will have to prove that the puncture - or the crack - is not your fault. As it is well known that you only believe what you see, the rental company will ask you to see the damage for yourself! All you have to do is take the used tire on board if you feel brave enough.
A supply of water on board your vehicle will save you physical and sometimes mechanical problems. Hot weather tends to put a strain on the radiator.
Gas stations are scattered in all the villages of the west coast and along the east coast. They rotate on weekends. However, keep an eye on your fuel gauge and be prepared, so as not to run out of fuel. At the time of our visit, there was still no gas station after Koumac, heading north. Finally, note that the opening of the stations between Touho and Ouégoa is random. Beware of bad surprises!
Roads. The 5 transverse roads linking the east and west coasts of the territory are superb. In the north, between Koumac and Pouébo, the journey is like a roller coaster in the middle of a sumptuous landscape. Count 1 hour and 15 minutes for 73 km. The Koné-Tiwaka transverse, which was completed in 1998, is also magnificent. It allows you to reach Poindimié (1 hour 20) or Hienghène (1 hour 30) on the east coast. In the center, you take the road from Bourail to Houaïlou (2 hours 30) by the Roussettes pass which culminates at 360 m. You wind your way through beautiful valleys and green meadows where cattle graze, never far from the large columnar pines. Between La Foa and Canala, the transversal road passes through the Amieu pass culminating at 474 m. The road, very winding, crosses the chain and splendid primary forests classified as botanical reserves. Count 60 km to be done in 1 hour. Finally, the southernmost transversal road (47 km) connects Boulouparis to Thio by the Nassirah pass (350 m).
Just after Pouébo (east coast), at a place called Yambé, you will find a 45 km dirt track. The landscape is grandiose between mountains and sea, the road goes along banana trees, coconut plantations, traditional huts and colored bus shelters. Allow 3 hours and 30 minutes to get from Koumac to Hienghène without hurrying. When you reach the last third of the track, you cross the river by the Ouaïème ferry. It operates continuously, with ferrymen taking turns to take you from one shore to the other (allow 15 minutes for passage). You have plenty of time to contemplate the islets located at the mouth of the river. They are sacred (taboo): the Kanak ancestors would come to reincarnate there. The ferry can carry up to three cars. As a general rule, the tarred roads are good and rather well maintained. The tracks are wide, mostly not too rough and also well maintained. However, don't rely on distances but on time when you start on a track. Do not hesitate to ask people about the length of the trip.
On the west coast, the landscape is quite hilly. The road ahead is quite far from the sea. Coastal rivers such as the Dumbéa, the Tontouta and the Ouenghi often overflow their beds during the rainy season and after the passage of a cyclone.
Accessibility New Caledonia
This depends greatly on the place, especially because of the lush vegetation... Please check with the places you plan to visit beforehand.
Tourist traps New Caledonia
New Caledonia is rather quiet in terms of tourist attractions, but we obviously recommend taking the necessary precautions applicable to any place on the planet.
