Things to see and do Kazakhstan

The cable car takes you to the top of the hill where the TV tower overlooks the entire city. It's a popular outing for Almaty's residents, who like to climb it day and night to admire the panorama of both the city and the surrounding mountains. Several restaurants are set up at the top of the hill, along with various stalls (shooting galleries, etc.), giving the whole area a fairground feel. You can also choose to walk back down to Dostyk, through the suburbs of Almaty.

Created in 1996, this national park was recognized as a biosphere reserve by UNESCO in 2017. Covering an area of almost 5,000 ^km2 at the foot of the Ak Tau mountain range, half of the park is covered by splendid dunes that are said to have the ability to sing. A number of forests and alpine meadows on the mountainsides also provide bucolic backdrops. The park's fauna consists mainly of Saiga gazelles, or goitered gazelles, although their population is declining sharply following numerous killings. A few Przewalski's horses have also been introduced over the last fifteen years.

The singing dunes.This is what makes this park so famous and so mysterious: the dunes form a cordon just over 1.5 km long and 150 metres high. And the miracle of the song has to be earned, as you have to start by climbing through the sand, slipping with every step, and facing an often quite strong wind, another essential element without which, of course, the "song of the dunes" wouldn't happen. If you follow Marco Polo's advice and follow the ridge of fine sand to the top of the dunes and then run down, you'll hear the dunes sing. In fact, all you have to do is walk along the side of the dunes to start hearing their murmur, which is said to be due to the hissing sound emitted by the grains of sand sliding en masse along the body of the dune. But running, as much as possible, produces a much more audible sound. Of course, the experience multiplied by hundreds of visitors is not without catastrophic consequences for the dunes themselves, and perhaps just listening to the singing will suffice... Visitors are just as numerous in winter, when the dunes are covered in a beautiful blanket of snow.

Aktau, the "white mountains".In the eastern part of the Altyn-Emel National Park, you can wander among these pebbly hills, gullied by rain and whose high concentrations of clay or ore give them multicolored hues, best seen at the beginning or end of the day. When the sun is at its zenith, many of these hills, crushed by light, simply appear white or red, hence their nickname of "white mountain" or "red cliff". As soon as the light is lowered, the green, purple and blue-striped flanks create an enchanting, fairytale-like universe.

The best way to reach the park is by bus between Almaty and Balkach, but there is no public transport between Balkach and the park. However, in summer and on weekends in winter, a few marchroutka shuttle buses operate. But given the distance, the easiest way is to charter a vehicle directly from Almaty and drive to the village of Shengeldy, which marks one of the entrances to the park, or to the village of Bashi, to the north of the reserve, which is easier for access to the singing dunes. Negotiate the route and the driver's waiting time. It's important to follow the marked trails in the reserve. The visit can be made over a long day (leaving before dawn and returning at night), but it is possible to sleep and eat near the park. Please note that you must leave Almaty in the direction of Balkach. Once you've passed Balkach, turn right onto a small road (signposted).

In the heart of Panfilov Park, this church is one of the city's most beautiful monuments, and Almaty's oldest building. Constructed of wood (it is one of the tallest wooden buildings in the world, with a tower 56 m high), it has withstood every earthquake since 1904, even though it was assembled without a single nail. This large, brightly-colored and gilded church was returned to Orthodox worship in 1995, after having been transformed into a museum and concert hall during the Soviet period.

The former Gorky Park, renamed Central Park of Culture and Leisure, is the city's largest park, with 100 hectares of greenery. It was laid out in 1856 along the river, a perfect place for strolling and leisure activities. It is home to many attractions: the Rodina cinema, various themed areas for children, the city zoo (open from 9 a.m. to 8 p.m.), an aquapark (open from 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.) and a host of small open-air cafés. It's a pleasant place to be if you're looking for a little freshness and greenery.

Learn all about Kazakh musical instruments. The museum is interesting, with a nice little concert hall. But it lacks explanations in English. Many instruments, especially dombras, once belonging to great Kazakh musicians and poets, have been recovered to enrich the museum's collection. The visit is as much worthwhile for the museum as for the wooden monument that houses it, a former cathedral erected in 1908.

The museum offers a complete panorama of the country's history since the bronze age, in a fairly well-designed timeline, although it is regrettable that no comments are made in English. Four bright halls with a beautiful setting, connected by galleries, display more than 200 000 historical pieces reminiscent of Kazakhstan through four historical periods. A beautiful hall is devoted to local ethnography, and the room on independent Kazakhstan is a fine example of political propaganda. Between the two, we will be able to dwell in the room devoted to the Soviet period, rich in many pieces today. Recently decorated, a fifth hall regularly displays the museum's funds, which have never been exposed in the other pavilions. The theme of this fifth hall is therefore periodically renewed. At the entrance you will find two souvenir stores offering a few crafts and carpets.

This beautiful park in the centre of the city bears the name of a Bolshevik, Kirov, whose statue in the middle of the garden.

In 1936, Kirov was particularly distinguished by levelling the Orthodox church in the park. A small memorial has since been erected at the site of this church: it is a small wooden chapel, the interior of which is entirely lined with icons.

You'll probably have seen it dozens of times in a poster before you see it in person. This supposedly sphinx-shaped rock, set in the middle of the water in a small cove, is a hiking target for many Bourabay tourists. The mountain above this cove is also an object of curiosity and local pride: the summit takes the shape of a reclining elephant, so detailed that you can even see its eyes! There are, of course, many local legends associated with these convoluted and photogenic shapes.

Bourabay's little bazaar on Rue Kenesary is busy every day, especially at weekends when holidaymakers flock here. You can buy all kinds of fish and shrimps straight from the lake. The target clientele are those who go picnicking on the lakes, so there's everything you need to stock up. It's also a good place to stock up on swimming gear in season, for those who have forgotten their swimming gear. You'll find bathing suits, towels, buoys, games and more..

The park is the only place in Astana that is a little alive. It has a small beach from which you can go for a few fathoms in the river.

In the park, there is also an Aquapark ✆ +7 717 239 12 20 : indoor swimming pool with two slides and a bubble pool. Open from 11am to 9pm.

There are also many outdoor restaurants, a mini amusement park, shooting and karaoke stands, stages hosting more or less improvised shows... A place not to be missed to feel the city live a few moments. On the other side of the river, pedal boats can be rented from 11am to 10pm.

In the early 2000s, Aralsk was more than 100 km from the shore. Local initiatives led to the construction of the first dike, which collapsed during a storm. But before it collapsed, the encouraging results prompted the government and the World Bank to support the local population's efforts and, in 2005, to build a full-fledged dam, enabling the water level to rise again. This 13-km dam, separating the northern and southern parts of the Aral Sea, has enabled the former to gain several dozen kilometers of ground lost over the past forty years. The dam itself is not very impressive, but in summer it attracts dozens of fishermen who indulge in veritable fishing miracles at the foot of the dam. A good place to feel the revival that is sweeping through the villages of the northern Aral Sea. And an opportunity to salute a successful local initiative! The expansion project has raised many hopes, not least that Aralsk will one day once again become a genuine fishing port. On the other hand, the presence of the dike irrevocably condemns what remains of the "great sea" to the south, on the Uzbek side. On the Kazakh side, however, the situation is euphoric: the "little sea" has already seen its level rise by almost ten meters and once again occupies more than a third of the surface area it had lost over the past decades. Fishing has resumed, albeit on a small-scale basis, raising the hopes of an entire population.

It's hard to imagine, strolling along the empty streets of this city swept by desert sand, that it was once a thriving port city. And yet, during the Soviet era, Aralsk was the main transit center for cotton: produced in Uzbekistan and Turkmenistan, it arrived in Aralsk loaded onto large ships that crossed the Aral Sea, before being transported by train to Russia. The town of Aralsk itself is home to a small ship cemetery, where the port once stood. A few rusting hulks lie beside panels bearing poems dedicated to the Aral Sea. You can also venture out onto the sand in the harbour, to wander among the rusty plates, engine parts, pieces of ship's hulls... As you go further on, many more silhouettes of beached boats loom on the horizon, some of them truly impressive in size. Since the fish have disappeared, the wrecks have been taken over by cows and camels, which gather along the hulls in the hottest hours to take advantage of the shade. As the sea retreated, other wrecks remained isolated in what is now a desert. Some are visible, notably around the village of Zhalanash, but you need a 4x4 to venture there. As for the wrecks themselves, don't expect to find them whole: many have been cut up to recover their metal parts.

When you ring the museum doorbell, you feel as if you're entering a private home. But the curator, Madi Jasekenov, is always happy to have visitors, and will be invaluable to Russian-speaking visitors. The museum focuses on the history of the city of Aralsk, right up to its decline in the 1970s. The period photos are interesting, and allow you to compare them with the city's current appearance. Don't miss the section devoted to works by artists inspired by the melancholy landscapes left by the disappearance of the sea.

A few families have joined forces to create an Eagle Museum, where you can admire a number of birds, including golden eagles, and learn how to train them. Dogs also give impressive demonstrations. Tourists are welcomed in winter, between late November and early March, during the hunting season. You're free to negotiate a rate to stay a few days if you'd like to take a more in-depth introduction and follow the hunters on horseback. A truly memorable experience!

A classic amusement park, with a few roller coasters and a Ferris wheel offering a beautiful view of the city. Just as classic in Central Asia: it caught fire in May 2012. The reconstruction work had the merit of renovating the park's attractions and equipment, which nonetheless dated back to the Soviet era. A few years after the disaster, the park has once again become Almaty's major family attraction. Food stalls on site.

Built in 1999 on the initiative of President Nazarbayev, this mosque is now the city's largest. It can be spotted from afar thanks to its five minarets, the tallest of which reaches 47 m into the sky. But the white tiles enhanced by turquoise mosaics that make up the entire exterior façade are a little disappointing when seen up close, and of course offer nothing truly historic or authentic. Nevertheless, it is one of Almaty's greatest post-independence architectural achievements, most of the construction projects having subsequently benefited the new capital Astana. Entrance is via the iwan, which leads to an impressive octagonal prayer hall topped by a vast turquoise dome 36 m high and 20 m in diameter. It's a brightly-lit room, where the freshness of the marble is maintained by the dome. The dome's exterior decorations are in the Timurid style, using the same shapes and motifs as the domes of the Yessy mausoleum in Turkestan and other similar monuments in Uzbekistan. In particular, the calligraphy features suras from the Koran. These were created by Turkish architects at the turn of the century. To this day, Almaty's central mosque remains the largest in the country, accommodating up to 7,000 worshippers. The mosque compound also houses the religious administration of Kazakhstan's Muslims.

This beautiful Orthodox church is less well known than the one in Panfilov Park, but it's still worth a look. It's as green as the Zenkov Church is yellow, and can be spotted from afar thanks to its golden domes. It was built at the very beginning of the ^20th century, turned into stables by the Soviets, before being returned to worship in 1980. During your visit, you'll want to observe the customs and traditions of Orthodox countries. The small Nikolsky bazaar is just to the left of the church entrance.

This column, topped by a statue of the Golden Knight, has become the symbol of the city. It stands opposite the municipal government building, a colossus of neoclassical architecture. On the other side of the square are the National Museum, a large white structure topped by a dome, and the presidential residence, recognizable by its large gates and permanently patrolling guards. The original Golden Knight can only be seen in the National Museum of Kazakhstan in Astana; Almaty has only kept replicas.

Located right in the city center, with the main entrance on Gogol Street and multiple entrances around the perimeter, Panfilov Park takes its name from the commanding general of the ^316th division of the Red Army, who fought heroically during the Battle of Moscow between November 1941 and January 1942. This is one of Almaty's must-see sites. Its 18 hectares were laid out at the end of the ^19th century, and since then it has remained one of the city's favorite places to stroll and relax. Shady areas alternate with sunny squares, little nooks and crannies hide lovers from the gaze of passers-by, pigeons flock around the smallest bread crumbs... The whole area is enlivened by a few merry-go-rounds, shooting galleries, open-air karaoke... In short, it's a lively park all day long, and most of the night. Panfilov Park is a place for strolling and meditating, around the memorial to the Great Patriotic War and its eternal flame. In winter, a skating rink, very popular with young couples and families, takes up residence right at the foot of the church. A must-see on your visit to the town, and one you'll be sure to return to again and again to test out the different atmospheres throughout the day.

As you stroll through the park, you'll discover some of Almaty's most notable monuments: the Zenkov Church, the Great Patriotic War Memorial, the Military Museum.

To take a look at the "official" art of the moment through regularly renewed exhibitions that may be devoted to a theme, an artist or a period. Painting as well as Central Asian crafts and nomadic culture (music, carpets, games...) are represented in all their forms. Even if the ensemble lacks resources, it's a good option for getting an idea of Kazakh craftsmanship. The premises have been refurbished to regain the lustre lost over the years, and together they form a pleasant break during a visit to the city.