Felt, the star of Kyrgyz handicrafts
The Kyrgyz craftsmanship comes from the traditions of the nomadic life and very often tinged with shamanistic decorations, much more than Muslim. It is of excellent quality, provided that one knows where to get the best products... In the first row of the materials of manufacture of craft industry, one finds obviously the felt, very appreciated for its insulating qualities (hot and cold) and its impermeability. The manufacture of felt, or kochma, has been part of the nomads' lifestyle for thousands of years. Clothes, hats, waterproof canvas for the yurt, but especially decorative carpets (shyrdak). In Kyrgyzstan, warm colours (yellow and red) dominate.
Felt is not only used to make shyrdak: it is also used for many other purposes, especially for clothing. In Bishkek, all these articles can now be found in a very basic way in the bazaars and department stores like the Tsum, but one can acquire a much better quality by going to the small craft shops and designer galleries that are becoming more and more numerous in the capital. This is the best way to find quality items with more contemporary lines, colours or patterns.Shyrdak for all tastes
The shyrdak is indeed THE Kyrgyz craft souvenir par excellence. These felt carpets constitute the main Kyrgyz craft production. Not only you will find some in all the souvenir shops, but it will also be very easy for you to attend a demonstration of the techniques of manufacture, either with the turning of a way if you have the chance to meet a craftsman indulging in the exercise, or by addressing you to a local tourist organization which will be able to direct you towards the best addresses. Although there are a few factories throughout the country, this is above all a family business. First of all, the wool is harvested: you will have to shear no less than five sheep before you can get enough of it. The wool is then boiled and beaten before being rolled up on a long wooden cylinder. The cylinder is then rolled in all directions by means of ropes wound around it and pulled in rhythm by two groups of people distributed on each side. It is a very long and grueling process that can take several hours. Since Independence, the craft of felt making has taken off again, and it is not uncommon to see, in her yard, a woman producing her own felt to make clothes or a carpet. Take advantage of this opportunity and try to watch the process.
Nomadic clothing
Women's embroidered clothing and traditional national garments (dresses, trousers, hats, jackets) are also very rich in decoration and often of unparalleled sturdiness! A character due to nomadic life and the need to wear solid and durable clothing. This is why, very often, they are reinforced by pieces of leather. Leather work was indeed very common among nomads. Today the leather factory is limited to the personal use of the nomads, when they can afford it, but there are still a few good bargains to be had if one appreciates the embroidered decorations of shamanistic origin that still adorn the leather trousers of the horsemen.
Kalpak and tioupé
All the visitors of the country pass there: it is necessary to buy and bring back the traditional Kyrgyz hat. The shape of the kalpak, evocative of the Kyrgyz mountains, is found in many other Turkish-speaking countries, but also in Greece or Bulgaria, where the Turkish-Mongolian wave has left the most traces. Although it evokes the mountain, its voluminous appearance serves above all to accumulate a small mass of air which, added to the thickness of the felt, will enable the headgear to insulate the head of the wearer from cold or heat. Embroidered in the colours of each town or region in the north of the country, it is less often seen in the south, in the Ferghana valley, where the majority of Uzbekistan has remained faithful to its tioupé, a small, more discreet black cap, whose embroidery also makes it possible to identify the origin of its wearer. Tiupe and kalpak are unavoidable souvenirs to bring back from Kyrgyzstan.
Silk
Kyrgyzstan has seen many caravans travel along the Silk Road between East Turkestan and Central Asia. However, there are no silk factories in the country, as silk is produced in the Uzbek part of the Ferghana Valley, in the small town of Marghilan. In Bishkek, in the souvenir shops, one can find very beautiful silk scarves, but which come from "the neighbour's house". To find something more personalised, again go to the small designer shops that are flourishing. There you'll find beautiful silk scarves in shimmering colours, enhanced with felt motifs that are, for that matter, all the more local.
And why not a yurt?
Probably for a very simple reason: Kyrgyz felt will have a little trouble withstanding the humid climate of our temperate zones. But if you live in the south of France, nothing prevents you from trying it. The yurts are in themselves true works of art resulting from the nomadic culture. Some manufacturers have specialized in the sale and export of traditional models better adapted to the different climates of Kyrgyzstan. The best thing to do is to contact the CBT office in Bishkek, which will direct you to the sellers according to your circuit and can help you with shipping formalities. If you cannot bring back a whole yurt from your trip, some of the pieces can be used as souvenirs. The coloured strips used as ropes to hold the frame and cover of the yurt in place are usually skilfully woven and richly decorated. Once rolled up, they take up very little space.
Surprising musical instruments
Musical instruments, especially two or three string guitars and tambourines, are an original and decorative souvenir of the country. They are largely similar to those found in the Arab world. Stringed instruments can be classified according to the number of strings and the presence or absence of an archer. In Kyrgyzstan, the three-stringed guitar (komuz) is played mainly, whereas the two-stringed guitar dominates in neighbouring countries. It is a kind of lute carved from a single block of wood, with the highest-highest string in the middle, between the two others. The komuz is always played sitting down. The ghijak is played with an archer. There are also many flutes, straight or transverse, often carved out of bone. Straight flutes are called sibizgi in Kyrgyzstan and are the most common. The komuz, a traditional flute, small and cylindrical, will be easy to bring back and also typical not only of the region, but also of the country. A percussion instrument also complements orchestras and is a resurgence of shamanistic traditions, as is the jaw harp, which is found only in the nomadic countries of Kazakhstan and Kyrgyzstan. Another typical and very unobtrusive souvenir!
Soviet memories
Less typical of Kyrgyz handicrafts, they are nevertheless very representative of the country's recent history, and are omnipresent in all souvenir shops in Bishkek. If you dream of wearing a red T-shirt decorated with the traditional hammer and sickle, if you think that drinking vodka shots from a glass set with Lenin's image is very offbeat, or if a bust of Lenin inspires you as a paperweight on your desk, you've come to the right place. But beware, what is often presented as an antique may only be a pale copy made in China: this is often the case in Bishkek shops, so pull the prices down and bring these objects back for fun. In any case, keep in mind that in Kyrgyzstan, haggling is an integral part of commercial relations.
