Kyrgyz horses
When one thinks of the horses of Central Asia, one immediately imagines the fiery celestial horses, the fruit of the mating of a mare and a dragon, whose assiduous research by the Chinese enabled them to explore the foothills of the Pamir and Tian Shan, opening the first stages of the future Silk Road. One also thinks of the splendid Turkmen horses of the Akhal-Teke breed, so jealously protected that no other horse is allowed to enter the country. But the Kyrgyz horses are of a completely different temperament. Rustic, robust, enduring, small with a size varying between 1,35 and 1,50 m, the Kyrgyz horse is also pleasant, docile and perfectly balanced and adapted to the mountain. It was so much associated with nomadism that the Soviets tried to eradicate it from the landscape. It is now the subject of a protection programme and, since independence, has again become a star in the country, being the subject of many games (see below) and dedicated festivals.
Saddle up!
It is possible to travel to Kyrgyzstan by bus, taxi, on foot or by bicycle and avoid riding a horse. But what a pity to stay in the country of nomads without taking advantage of this omnipresent mode of locomotion! It has become very easy, at each stage, to hire guides and horses for horseback rides lasting a few hours or a few days, depending on your choice. And don't worry: Kyrgyz horses, even in the mountains, even along ravines, even under the snow, know the mountains perfectly, are robust as you wish and give their rider a feeling of serenity that lets you fully enjoy the landscapes and sensations offered by the scenery of the prestigious mountains, lakes and valleys of altitude. No special equipment is required: good shoes and warm clothing (the wind can be very cold at high altitude and as it is the horse that makes the main effort, the body does not warm up) will suffice. If you are a safety enthusiast, bring your own bomb or helmet, as there are very few available on site.
Various itineraries
Generally speaking, if you contact the regional coordinators of the CBT network (Community based Tourism, www.cbtkyrgyzstan.kg), you will have no problem finding a horse and its equipment and renting it for the duration that suits you. Whether it is a short canter on the shores of Song Kul Lake or a wilder ride between Talas and Sary Chelek Lake, off the beaten track, it is up to you, but there is no difficulty in organising such a trip. Nevertheless, be vigilant and do not commit yourself without knowing precisely how long and difficult the trek is. Some treks go through difficult trails where a certain experience and a total control of the horse will be necessary. Furthermore, do not think that a horseback ride is less tiring than a hike. A good pain in your buttocks and back awaits you in the evening if you don't have the right position, and once the bivouac is set up, you still have to take care of the horse. So it takes a certain amount of energy, passion and knowledge to set off on the adventure on your own. Without forgetting an important detail: the Kyrgyz will most often rent you horses ridden the Asian way, i.e. with saddles that are much less comfortable than in Europe. Fortunately, a few local operators are fully specialised in horseback riding and also offer perfectly supervised rides, with safe stages and professional guides (www.asiarando.com).
Equestrian games
Equestrian culture in Kyrgyzstan is not limited to traveling and pastoralism: horses have been since the dawn of time fully involved in games that have acquired over time a great social importance. Some traditions are still alive, such as the organization of ulak tartych, the equivalent of the Afghan bozkachi (see below), others are purely part of folklore, such as hunting falcons on horseback, some are tending to disappear, such as the kidnapping of the young bride on horseback, and many others have become sporting events that can be seen at the festival of nomadic games, which is now organized every two years in Kyrgyzstan. Among these games, the at-shabich is a very popular long-distance race. It is the oldest and most widespread equestrian sport. In the past, the course of the races could be up to 100 km long, and the riders were often children as young as ten years old.
Ulak Tartych: the most beautiful show!
But the most spectacular of all Kyrgyz equestrian sports is obviously the oulak-tartych. This sport was practiced in the Persian armies a very long time ago, it was used as training for the elite of the cavalry: a hundred riders could then compete in these battles in miniature. A goat is beheaded, and the riders fight over the remains. Whoever wins the melee must then ride a course determined by posts before returning to the centre of the track and throw the carcass into a circle drawn on the ground, representing the 'circle of justice'. While riding, his opponents must try to take the spoils from him and then there are no more rules, anything goes. The game can therefore become quite violent, both for the riders and their horses. Each team is dressed in its traditional colours, but there is only one winner, and rivalries also exist within the same team. The festivities of Navrouz, the Eastern New Year, often go hand in hand with the organisation of oulak-tartych competitions. If you visit the country's livestock markets, you will notice that a Kyrgyz person never buys a horse destined for the oulak-tartych without testing its speed, agility and sturdiness, rushing to the very heart of the market on other riders to take the measure of his mount. The oulak-tartych season starts in spring and lasts all summer, culminating in the Kyrgyzstan Independence Day on 31 August.
