When one thinks of Iran, images of eternal Persia naturally come to mind: Isfahan, Shiraz, Yazd, Persepolis... And it is no coincidence that as soon as the borders of this splendid country are opened, these destinations find themselves at the forefront of the sites most popular with the first Western tourists. However, in Iran, as elsewhere, there are secret paths, villages that are more difficult to access, and sites that are too far apart to fit into the tight schedules of tour operators. An overview of Iran's most beautiful and little-known sites.
Tabriz, the former capital, and Kandovan
Situated on the ancient Silk Road, where it was one of the main caravan routes, Tabriz, the former capital of Iran, has remained a major centre of trade and commerce. Its bazaar, whose shops stretch as far as the eye can see in alleys that are always crowded, is certainly the largest in the country and the one that has retained the most character. Along the covered walkways, from caravanserai to carpet workshop, one goes from meeting to meeting in what is finally a cave of Ali Baba out of all proportions. Carpets, silks, nomadic handicrafts but also dried fruits, jewellery, copper utensils, chinese china, spices, vegetables? It is an endless display that unfolds before the visitor's eyes, a showcase of the best that the country has to offer, and which the kindness of the Iranians - here, in fact, mostly Azeris - complements for the warmth of the human experience. A few figures to make your head spin: the bazaar of Tabriz is 36 km of alleyways and 5,555 shops spread over 75 hectares.
Tabriz was, and still is, a major shopping mall and is best known for its carpets. Skimming the left lane, arriving from Imam Khomeiny Avenue, you will find the main specialized merchants. Some are just traders, offering the best they can find in the country, others make their own, so that there is a little bit for every price, and of every quality. Take advantage of it, as there are few tourists around here and the rates have not been satellite tagged like elsewhere! Having been the capital of Iran on several occasions, Tabriz is also full of monuments, museums and historic houses worthy of the greatest interest. In the municipal museum, built in the 1930s by a German architect and designed to evoke the eagle of the Third Reich, you will be able to admire a unique set of carpets. Ordered in 1941 to decorate the town hall, it consists of a central room of 7 by 16 metres, surrounded by other carpets of 5 by 4 or 8 metres; seen from the sky, the whole forms a single work. A splendour! Just a stone's throw away, the Museum of Azerbaijan is one of the most beautiful and interesting museums in the country, with 3,000 square metres devoted to archaeological excavations in the region, with exhibits dating back to the 5th millennium BC. Right next door, the Blue Mosque summons up all the creeds of Islamic art through the beautiful blue mosaics of its Timurid façade. Just behind it, landscaping work has uncovered an Iron Age cemetery with almost 40 graves, which is particularly interesting to visit. Behind the bazaar, other buildings such as the House of the Constitution or the Qadjar House, two splendid traditional residences, or the Poets' Mausoleum, give an idea of the importance of Tabriz in the great Iranian history.
Change of scenery in the southwest of the city, around El Goli Park. Here, modern shopping malls rub shoulders with the latest hotels, while in the park itself, the city's best restaurants continuously cook the region's traditional recipes such as meatballs, renowned throughout Iran for their size and flavour.
Just a short drive from the regional capital, Kandovan is one of those landmark sites that still pushes you off the beaten path. The village, literally carved out of the rock, is one of the most photogenic in the country. The maze of narrow lanes of earth meanders between the cave dwellings offering superb views of the crops of the valley below.
To the Caspian Sea
Without leaving Iranian Azerbaijan, you will have to head towards the Caspian Sea to reach Ardebil. Its bazaar is much less extensive than that of Tabriz, but it is no less charming. Silks and carpets are also on display. Don't miss the visit to the mausoleum of Sheikh Safi Od-Din (1252-1334), an ancestor of Shah Ismail, the founder of the Safavid dynasty. The ceilings and walls of this holy place are covered with small gold leaves while a room is entirely carved out of hundreds of coloured porcelain niches. A real treasure!
About thirty kilometres to the south-west, the small town of Sar Ein is especially prized by Iranians for its thermal springs, renowned for their healing properties. Their popularity has led to the appearance of a hotel park from which it is easy to radiate in the surrounding area.
The Secrets of Kermanshah
Head for Iranian Kurdistan, where one of the oldest cities in Iran is located, founded at the end of the 4th century by the Sassanid kings. Razed several times, in particular by the Mongols, its strategic location on the caravan routes allowed it to be reborn each time. On the outskirts of the city visitors can admire archaeological treasures such as the bas-reliefs of Bisotun or Taq e Bostan. Situated a few kilometres to the north, the "garden arch" presents one of the most beautiful groups of bas-reliefs and sculpted caves in this part of the country, considered to be the masterpiece of Sassanid art. About forty kilometers east of the city, it is absolutely necessary to visit the site of Bisotun. On the rock face of a cliff overlooking the ancient Royal Way, a series of giant bas-reliefs evoke the accession to the throne of Darius I and his victories over his enemies. An unmissable show!
The archaeological treasures of Ahvaz
Heading south towards the Persian Gulf, following the Royal Achaemenid Way that linked Susa to Persepolis, one oscillates between the Persian and Arabic worlds. The oil industry is becoming an integral part of the landscape, with unfortunate industrial centres blocking the horizon. Yet this is the cradle of the Elamite civilization, which disappeared during the Achaemenid boom, and archaeology enthusiasts will do well to cross this aesthetic barrier to discover a historically very rich region. The great Ziggurat of Chogha Zanbil or the ruins of Haft Tepe Fortress are the must-see sights of Khuzestan
Kerman
As you head straight east towards the desert and past Shiraz, you quickly become aware of the difficult destiny of Kerman, an outpost in the sands, crushed by heat and where most of the activity can only take place in the morning or evening. Yet this position on the edge of civilization has offered the city, after centuries of destruction and invasions, the opportunity to trade with tribes nomadic in the desert, draining products from China, India or Central Asia. Having become a large caravan city on the Silk Road, Kerman has preserved an attractive and lively bazaar and beautiful safavid remains.
Smart info
When? There are two privileged periods: from mid-April to mid-June and from mid-September to mid-November. However, the rest of the year is not excluded. During the summer heat wave, for example, stays in the mountains remain pleasant. In the middle of winter, driving conditions are sometimes difficult in the mountains due to snowfall - but nothing insurmountable. And always, in the case of an off-season stay, the pleasure of travelling off the beaten track, as close as possible to local life! The period of Ramadan is not ideal, as is the case in other Muslim countries. Many services and restaurants remain closed all day long.
Getting there. Numerous flights between Paris and Teheran for less than 200 € with the low-cost airline Pegasus. The counterpart is a stopover in Istanbul on the Asian shore. Count double with the national airline Iran Air on a direct flight.
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