Streets squares and districts to visit Turkey

A visit to the deserted village of Kaya (the rock) is an experience not to be missed. It can be reached by dolmuş from Fethiye (15 km) or on foot from Ölüdeniz (8 km). Its 3,500 houses were originally inhabited by Greeks. In 1923, after the exchange of populations between Greece and Turkey, its 25,000 inhabitants had to leave, and the Turks from Greece never wanted to settle there. The city became a ghost town. Note the two churches.

The very heart of Beyoğlu, Avenue de l'Indépendance (formerly Grand Rue de Péra) is one of the most famous streets in the city, known for its nostalgic tramway and above all its frenetic animation, both in terms of shops and nightlife. Thousands of shops, cafés, bars and restaurants follow one another on the avenue and adjacent streets. Those who know Barcelona and its Ramblas will not be out of place. The buildings date for the most part from the 19th century, we feel very far from Istanbul mosques, and very close to the great European capitals.

The historic district is the most interesting part of the city. Its harbor was restored in 1988 and most of the houses have been transformed into charming hotels and guesthouses, restaurants and stores. To get there, walk through Hesapçı Sokak, next to Hadrian's Gate, which was built for a visit by the emperor in 130 A.D. Its white marble vaults are beautifully decorated with floral motifs and lion heads. It is very pleasant to stroll through the narrow streets, among the fragrant gardens and the street vendors.

10 km from Kaymaklı to the south, dolmuş from Nevşehir. With a depth of about 85 m, you can see almost every part of a town that is buried underground in order to be able to escape it in the event of a threat: barn, canteen, deposits of food and beverages (wine), wells, churches, ventilation tunnel… It is the deepest and the largest known today, it could accommodate up to 10 000 people. The rooms are often large and the corridors are easy to access. Perhaps the most surprising will be to learn that the visible part would only be 1/10 of its real size!

Its name comes from the actual racecourse that stood on this very spot in Sultanahmet Square. It was a venue for horse and chariot races and could accommodate up to 100,000 spectators. A race consisted of four quadrigas and seven laps of the track, or about 2,500 m. Each driver wore the colour of the Constantinople faction that funded him. The whites and blues represented the aristocrats and landowners, while the reds and greens represented the artists and merchants. The tension between the two factions led to several revolts. Two columns and an obelisk, which were part of the monuments placed in the central axis of the track and around which the races were held, are still intact. The site was named At Meydanı ("Horse Square") by the Ottomans, as the palace pages regularly played djirit, the ancestor of polo, here.

From north to south: the obelisk of Theodosius. It comes from the Karnak temple built by Thutmose III (1483-1450 BC). The hieroglyphs engraved on the four faces of this 26-meter-high porphyry monolith are dedicated to the god Horus and celebrate the victories won by the pharaoh. Transferred to Constantinople by Theodosius I, it was installed in the middle of the hippodrome in 390. The column stands on a 6 m high marble pedestal, sculpted with bas-reliefs representing Theodosius and his family sitting at the imperial tribune of the hippodrome and presenting crowns to the winners of the races. The Serpentine Column (Yilanlı Sütün). This is a trophy that the 31 Greek cities brought back from the temple of Apollo Pythian (Delphi), in 479 BC. This twist, formed by the winding of three snakes, supported a large tripod and a golden vase. Constantine the Great brought it back from Delphi to install it in the Hippodrome square. The snakes, demonic symbols par excellence, did not please either the Byzantines or the Muslims afterwards, and were mutilated several times. All the heads have disappeared over time. The walled obelisk. This 32m high obelisk was erected in the 4th century on the spina of the Hippodrome, probably during the reign of Constantine I the Great (306-337). Made of roughly hewn stone blocks, it remained like this until Constantine VII (912-959) had it covered with gilded bronze plates. These plates were removed during the Fourth Crusade (1204) to make coins.

The layout of the square and the pedestal of the monument are the work of the architect Monceri. The statues are by the Italian sculptor Pietro Canonica. On the side of the monument are scenes relating to the national liberation struggle led by Atatürk (1919-1921) while allegories of republican Turkey are on the opposite side. Statues representing Turkish soldiers holding banners are installed. The monument was inaugurated on August 8, 1928.

If Sarıyer is appreciated, purists prefer Rumeli Kavağı, charming, despite the disorder around the square. The Yenimahalle Caddesi, which leaves Sarıyer to the north, becomes the Karakütük Caddesi, then the Liman Caddesi, where is, on the side, opposite a great restaurant, the Telli Baba Türbesi (tomb of Baba Telli), a tomb where a saint, who is actually a saint, lies! In Islam, there are more saints than saints. Near the eponymous bus stop, it is the favourite address of young ladies waiting to convolve to the well-behaved world of marriage. Indeed, the young Turks have solved the problem of the perfect man! So, if you want an elegant, brilliant, loyal, respectful, devoted, kind, attentive husband... all you need to do is pray a little prayer and put a strand of hair or a piece of cloth on it. If you spend Friday (Holy Day) or weekend there, you will see people there! The origin of this popular belief is very touching: an employee of the small port notices a boat and its two young passengers, a boy and a girl, on a stormy day; the boat capsizes. Without hesitation, she dived and managed to save the girl from the raging waves. The boy, on the other hand, disappears. As the years go by, the miraculous woman becomes a woman ready to marry. She returned to the scene of the disaster to express her gratitude to her benefactor, but she is dead. She finds her tomb to meditate and lay a piece of her wedding dress on it...

With its churches and rock shelters, the valley is known as Şeytan Deresi ("Devil's River"). The walk is done following the river and, at times, fairy chimneys. In addition to enjoying the beauty of the valley, you will find several churches in Alakara, Cambazlı, Tavşanlı, Balkan Deresi. The most important, despite its condition, is Aziz Basil (Saint Basil), flanked by two apses. Note the frescoes of the Holy Bishop of Caesarea and St. Gregory of Nazianzus.

It is the birthplace of saint Hacı Bektaş Veli, a thinker who influenced Islam and founder of the dervish order Bektaşi. You can get an idea of their daily life in the monastery (tekke). At the Meydan Evi, where the novices entered the orders, costumes and musical instruments are now on display. The tekke consists of three courtyards with the beautiful lion fountain in the second one. The saint's türbe is erected in the third courtyard. It is a place of pilgrimage. In August, a festival is held there with a poetry and singing competition.

The cobbled streets behind the waterfront, facing the docks, are delightful. The atmosphere is friendly, everyone seems to know each other. Numerous pensions, small shops and the welcoming terraces of restaurants with colorful shopfronts await you. It is very cute. Dalkıran Mehmetağa and Fevzi Çakmak avenues are worth seeing. You can also head to the end of the docks at the place called Çamlık (the sea being on the right). A market is held every Thursday and gives you a good insight into the life of the locals.

From Konak, the ferry glides in twenty minutes to Karşıyaka, a peaceful residential area where you will find several cafes and restaurants. Before 1922, this suburb was called Kordelio, a name inspired by Richard the Lionheart who passed through here during the Third Crusade. The beautiful residences in the area were mostly inhabited by Greeks. You will see them as you walk around; they are characteristic, with the roof topped with a finely carved wooden fringe, the indispensable loggia and a facade decorated with bricks. Lively market on Sundays.

The "yellow square" district, if we translate it, is known for its fishermen, its market and its fish restaurants. Sarı (yellow) is an allusion to the natural water sources and gold and copper ores once extracted here. You can admire superb wooden houses. Along the harbour, fish restaurants offer fresh produce. The district is also known for its börek (puff pastry) with meat or cheese. From Sariyer, there are dolmuş to reach Kilyos, a sandy beach on the Black Sea, in 20 minutes.

At the entrance, the ladies will offer you dolls and other souvenirs (woolen socks and slippers for the winter, extra!) They are adorable and we are far from the solicitations in the ultra tourist places. The children of the village will not fail to offer their assistance, but here the route is simple and the churches well indicated.

Visit Soğanlı, it is splendid! And the landscape changes a bit from the center of Cappadocia. The tour goes along the banks. You start from the right bank up to the snake church where you cross over to go down the other side and back to the village. The most remarkable churches are, following the direction of the visit: Karabaş Kilise ("Church of the Black Head") from the ^11th century, part of a monastery with some frescoes; Yılanlı Kilise ("Church with the Snake") name given because of one of the frescoes of St. George slaying a dragon, many outbuildings and nooks and crannies all over. As you change banks, you come across Kubbeli Kilise ("the church with the dome"): dating from the ^10th century, it is very remarkable for the architecture of its dome carved directly into the cone. Right next to it stands Saklı Kilise ("the hidden church"), which has no frescoes but a vast basilica and many tunnels. Then comes Tahtalı Kilise ("Church of St. Barbara") to the west of the village, with its well-preserved frescoes and Geyikli Kilise ("Deer Church") particular for its iconostasis. They date from the ^11th and ^13th centuries.

A favourite neighbourhood for artists and bohemians, it has long been known for its cosmopolitan character. Foreigners working in Istanbul appreciate it, especially the French community. The chic trend coexists with the picturesque, which inevitably attracts young people from all walks of life. With a rebellious but irreverent soul, the district is open to all. The street on the right opposite the mosque, Akarsu Caddesi, is the beating heart of Cihangir.

To get to this district, it is possible to take the Yeni Çarsı Caddesi which runs alongside the Galatasaray high school. Then, by the second street on the left, you reach rue Française and Çukurcuma, a district that is mainly known for its antique dealers. In the first Hayriye Street, next to the Koyu Kahve, is the Apelyan building, which you will recognize by its yellow facade and Italian-style architecture. Dating from the 19th century and having belonged to the Apelyan family.

The easiest way to get there is to take a boat from Eminönü. The district is known for its fish restaurants and its military, a strategic point. The village, its narrow streets with wooden houses, its few shops are dominated by the hill Yuşa Tepesi. It is easy to get there in 30 minutes, for its fortress (Yoros Kalesi) and the wonderful view of the Bosporus and the Black Sea. Two fishing villages further away: Anadolu Feneri with its lighthouse (fener) and Poyrazköy with its small paying beach.

Along the road that runs along the sparsely populated coastal strip, you will come across the Austrian consulate, the summer palace of the German consulate, the Art Nouveau presidential residence and a villa belonging to the former Italian ambassador. This private mansion has become the property of the State. Tarabya has a beautiful small cove, unfortunately disfigured by an imposing hotel. In this upscale district of the capital, pleasure boats await their wealthy owners, facing fish restaurants, trendy bars and social clubs.

The valley is located 6 km northwest of Nevşehir. The walkers are more rare because the path is recent. You will find yourself in a fascinating nature with beautiful greenery. This area is full of churches and thousands of pigeonholes dug into the cliffside. The gigantic rocks are riddled with holes or drawn. Hiking in these places is an impressive experience. After 4 km, a hairpin turnoff leads to the Fırın-Asma valley, where you can visit the church of the same name.

This valley allows you to reach Göreme and its open-air museum from Ürgüp. The dolmuş, departing from the center of Ürgüp, will drop you off on the Nevşehir-Ürgüp road, at the starting point of the hike, which is south of Müze Caddesi. This 6 km long hike, also known as the "valley of love", contains beautiful specimens of phallic formations, some rock churches, including El Nazar Ikilesi at the end of the walk. This quiet walk will be an opportunity to meet the inhabitants who will offer you açay or a bunch of grapes.

It is more of a han (commercial patio) than a passage. Built in the early 19th century in neoclassical architecture, it was used by the Russian consulate until 1924 and was also used as a prison. Recently restored with its salmon-coloured facade, this building unfortunately no longer has much to do with what it used to be. It still has an inner courtyard and now houses some shops and the illusion museum.