Archaeology handicrafts and science and technology sites to visit Laos

The dynasties extend their powers to eventually rule, as early as the 9th century, over the entire Khmer territory and choose Angkor as their capital. However, the Khmer rulers honoured this place until the reign of the last king, Jayavarman VII, in the 12th century, and laid the foundations at Wat Phou. Later, this shrine became Buddhist and has remained so to this day. Every year, at the end of January or beginning of February, a festival takes place at the time of the full moon which attracts crowds of the faithful.

This site is older than Angkor Wat (by about two centuries). Francis Garnier rediscovered the site in 1866; the villagers then thought it had been built by people of another race.

Inscriptions dating from the ^5th and 6th centuries mention the presence of a temple in the mountain, but this has disappeared and has been replaced by the present site. Vat Phou as we see it today was built in the first part of the 11th century. Extensions and renovations were carried out in the 13th century. The complex is oriented along an East-West axis, climbs a mountain and leads to the sanctuary, located on a terrace at the foot of the cliff where the sacred spring flows.

The barays and the alley. On entering the site one first sees two barays, artificial lakes representing the ocean that surrounds the land, and then a sandstone terrace. A brick-lined driveway leads to an esplanade where two buildings face each other.

The palaces, Nandi temple, and the old Khmer road. The two rectangular buildings with an inner courtyard have carved pediments, dating from the 11th century (Koh Ker period). From here a central alley lined with partly destroyed galleries leads to a staircase. On the side (south of the alley), one can admire the remains of a mid-11th century building known as the temple of Nandi, the sacred bull of Shiva's mount. Then a high road leads to the Nang Sida temple via Ban That where there are three Khmer chapels, 30 km to the south, and ends at Angkor.

The stairs and the terrace. The first staircase leads to a terrace, then to a second staircase at the foot of which are two buildings dating from the 13th century. Now partly destroyed, they both contained a Dvarapala or gatekeeper. Only the one in the north is still visible: he holds a club in one hand, the other is placed on his heart as a sign of respect. It would be a representation of King Kammantha. From the top of the second staircase one reaches a third one... which leads to the penultimate terrace and its six brick towers, whose period of origin is uncertain (11th century?). They contained Shivalinga. From here you can see the vast upper terrace.

The source (basement). Behind the portico, a rock shelter would contain the sacred springs. Archaeological excavations carried out between 1991 and 1993 revealed several successive developments in this area whose function was the collection and conveyance of water to the sanctuary. This unique layout is what makes Vat Phou so special. In the past, a small temple embedded in the cliff sacralized the spring water. Behind were found bronze Khmer statuettes of Vishnu, a female deity and effigies of Buddha. The water from the spring was collected in a basin of green sandstone and bricks and brought to the sanctuary via an aqueduct.

Pedestals unearthed around the spring bear witness to the presence of statues that have now disappeared, probably Shivalinga.

The sanctuary. It is on the upper terrace that the main sanctuary was built in the mid-11th century. Like all Khmer temples, it has a library and is bordered on the west by a 13th century stepped portico with two doors leading to the sacred spring area.

In the rock supporting the portico, behind the sanctuary, a sculpture of Trimurti, the Hindu trinity (Shiva, centre; Brahma, right; Vishnu, left) can be seen. The sanctuary is accessed through three gates: south, east and north. At the back, there used to be a Shivalinga sprinkled with water from the spring. Note: the permanent watering of the lingam is something unique in the Khmer Hindu religion. This gives a special character to Vat Phou. On the exterior facades, one can see the guardians of the doors and the Devata, female deities. The doors are all carved and we see mostly representations of Krishna, Indra, Vishnu, Shiva and illustrations of the Ramayana. This sanctuary has been converted into a Buddhist temple and contains recent statues of Buddha.

To the north of the sanctuary, one can see recent monastic buildings and further on, carved rocks: an elephant, a crocodile and a snake (naga). They would date from the 13th century (or earlier). Perhaps a place of sacrifice during the festivities of Vat Phou... See also the remains of much older sandstone meditation cells (walls, pedestals). A Buddha's foot is carved into the rock.

Around Vat Phou, 1 km south of Nandi temple, you can visit the ruins of Nang Sida temple dating back to the early 12th century. Further on is the temple of Thao Tao from the beginning of the 13th century. It is more difficult to access. On the other bank of the river, on the banks of the Nam To Mo, are the remains of another temple dating from the 7th and 12th centuries.

This project was initiated by the travel agency Exotissimo and the German GTZ organization to create an ecotourism programme managed by the Akha community.

You can discover the daily life of this community and its environment. The groups are limited to 8 people. A joint fund has been set up to create a solidarity fund for the development of the village and a percentage of the towers are paid.

Contact the tourist office or the Exotissimo tour operator (tel (021) 252 382 - [email protected]).

The caves of Vieng Xai, also known as the caves of the Lao Pathet, are one of the most fascinating testimonies of the Vietnam War (or Second Indochina War), the one that gave birth to the Lao People's Democratic Republic.

For nearly a decade, about 23,000 soldiers and civilians survived the intense aerial bombardment by the U.S. Air Force by living underground in this hidden city. There have been more than 100 caves, but only about 20 are officially open to visitors, the same ones that were occupied by prominent members of the Pathet Lao during the period 1964 to 1973. As they are scattered at the bottom of a valley, in the middle of limestone massifs (karstic formations) covered by tropical vegetation, aerial observation was almost impossible. Some caves are shallow and have been enlarged with explosives and their entrances protected by concrete walls. Real small bunkers were built inside to protect against intensive bombardment. This is also where the American prisoners were imprisoned. From 1973 onwards, villas and other outbuildings were built outside the cave shelters, as the American bombardments had ceased. It should be noted that it was in this region that the Pathet Lao had set up re-education camps, where Party opponents such as members of the royal family, pro-Western intellectuals, etc. were interned. The programme included forced indoctrination and hard physical labour.

It is now possible to visit the caves without official permission. For visual comfort, a flashlight should be brought along, as the lighting in the main caves is rather dim. It is possible to rent a bicycle (15,000 kips) at the visitors' centre to get to the different sites. Audio guides are also available, a first in Laos! These are excellent and very informative, however if you speak English it is best to hire the services of a licensed guide to better understand the history of the site. It is best to arrive early to take the time to read the explanatory panels in the visitor centre. The guided tour lasts about 3 hours.

There are many anecdotes about these caves, as well as the events that took place there and the prestigious people who stayed there. In an interview, Yasser Arafat admitted that he had spent several days there with the leaders of the Pathet Lao to learn about their guerrilla techniques, which he himself intended to put into practice as part of the Palestinian people's struggle against Israel. Obviously equipped with thick concrete walls, capable of resisting American bombardments, these caves are built like veritable underground bunkers, with guard room, meeting room, kitchen, bedroom, bathroom, room where the air was purified when American planes dropped their chemical bombs, as well as medical care blocks in case of emergency. A Soviet-made pump was used to provide fresh air around the caves, creating a liveable environment.

The Laotian leaders did not stay permanently in their natural shelters or cloistered in their blockhouses. They only took shelter there when there were alerts and lived the rest of the time in the open air, close to their shelters. After the end of the American bombings in 1973, most members of the Pathet Lao settled in a house built next to their cave. Nostalgia, when you have us? "By my cave, I lived happily..."

Tham Than Kaysone. This cave, formerly known as Tham Yonesong, is important for many reasons. It was here that the headquarters of the Pathet Lao was located, under the leadership of Mr. Kaysone Phomvihane (future Prime Minister, then second president of the Lao Republic until 1992). It is the deepest cave (150 m long) and the most imposing because of its long corridor. One can see in the reception room the table surrounded by the seven seats of the leaders (the original furniture has since been replaced).

Tham Than Souphanouvong or the "cave of the Red Prince", which joined the party. Inside, several objects that belonged to him are religiously guarded and venerated. The cave has been laid out like the inside of a house, with rooms separated by wooden partitions. After the end of the bombings (in 1973), a small residence was built just in front of the entrance. There is a heart-shaped pool in front of the villa. It was built in a bomb crater. The prince's son is buried under a stupa not far from there.

Tham Than Khamtay. This cave sheltered the former Prime Minister. At the entrance you can still see several craters, now partly covered. The meeting room downstairs is long and very impressive.

Tham Than Xang Lot. Contrary to the others, this one did not shelter any important person in the long term. Because of its size, it was chosen to be used as a conference room or auditorium. One could install a hundred spectators there. Its name comes from the fact that an elephant could have moved around there without hindrance.

Tham Xieng Muang. From a depth of 200 m, it would have sheltered a hospital.

Tham Along. 2.5 km to the right on the road to Vietnam, it can be visited without a guide.