2024

BAALBEK

Archaeological site
4.2/5
5 reviews

To the west of the current city, the Roman acropolis surprises travellers with its gigantic proportions. In winter on a sunny day, the site is exceptional with its colours and snow-covered neighbouring peaks. In summer, in full sunlight, the visit can be tiring. It is therefore preferable to arrive early in the morning. You can request a guide to comment on your visit. It takes about two hours to visit the ruins.

Propylae. The ruins can be reached by a monumental staircase leading to the propylées (entrance to the sanctuary). It was built by the Germans between 1900 and 1904. The original staircase was used to build the ramparts of the Arab fortress. At the top of the stairs, there was a portico supported by twelve columns 8 m high and delimited by two towers erected at each end. A cedar wood frame once covered the portico. The back wall had three doors through it. The large central gate was reserved for the clergy while the other two allowed access for the people.

The hexagonal courtyard. Behind the propylées, the courtyard in the shape of an oriental star was reserved for the recollection of the faithful. A portico surrounded this space on which exedras opened (rectangular rooms decorated with niches and preceded by columns). The hexagonal courtyard was transformed by Theodosius into a church, then the Arabs in the 7th century modified the structure of the surrounding wall for military purposes. A bas-relief of Jupiter-Héliopolitain, found near Baalbek, has been deposited by German archaeologists near the entrance to the Great Court. The god is represented in the form of a man carrying a basket (calathos) on his head. Surrounded by two bulls, he wields a whip in his right hand while his left hand grabs the lightning bolt.

The big courtyard. Main courtyard of the acropolis, it was here that the main rites of purification were performed. Surrounded by twelve exedras opening onto a portico, it had two altars in its centre. Probably the most important was used for the solemn ceremonies; or perhaps it was a platform for the faithful to contemplate the statue of Jupiter Heliopolitan erected at the bottom of the temple. It is also not known what use the second, smaller altar was intended for. Some see a base that supported the statue of Jupiter; others see a terrace reserved for the clergy and more specifically for the priests. On either side of the two altars, a basin decorated with bas-reliefs shows various scenes from Roman mythology (Medusa, Cupid riding dragons, funeral geniuses...). A system of pipes brought the water to the basins where ritual ablutions and the purification of the animal to be sacrificed were carried out. Theodosius disrupted the architecture of the great courtyard by building a Christian basilica on the site of the two altars. The French archaeological mission decided to dismantle the building, thus restoring the acropolis to its original appearance.

Temple of Jupiter. Unique in its kind, the temple of Jupiter surpassed all the temples of the ancient Greek-Roman world in size and beauty. Dominating the large courtyard thanks to its enormous basement formed by titanic blocks, the temple was 89 m long and 50 m wide. It would appear that the transport of these blocks - from the quarries to the site - was made possible by the construction of an inclined road where the stones were slid with the help of rollers placed underneath. The entrance is accessed by a huge three-panel staircase. Fifty-four Corinthian columns surrounded the cella: ten columns, 21 m high, formed the frontal peristyle while nineteen, six of which are still standing, formed the lateral part. These six columns are a strong symbol of Lebanon's history. Behind this peristyle, a second row of columns reinforced the building facing the Levant. An entablature 5.30 m high rested on the capitals. The details of the frieze can still be seen above the remaining six columns where young lions and calves, lost in a fine lace of bas-reliefs, share the decor. A miraculously preserved fragment of a cornice (lion's head as a gargoyle) is still visible in the courtyard along the Bacchus Temple. At the bottom of the temple was the statue of Jupiter Heliopolitan.

The medieval citadel. Between the temples of Jupiter and Bacchus, there are the Arabic fortifications. Some pillars mark the location of an old mosque. Inscriptions from 1238 have been found there.

The temple of Bacchus. One of the best preserved architectural works in the ancient world, the Bacchus Temple, although it appears small in comparison to its neighbour, is nevertheless larger than the Parthenon of Athens. 68 m long and 36 m wide, this peripatetic temple, which was accessed by a wide staircase, was preceded by a courtyard with porticoes. A peristyle, consisting of forty-two 8 m high columns and a pronaos (a kind of vestibule) decorated with eight fluted columns, surrounded the cella (the main element of the temple). The peristyle supports an entablature decorated with very beautiful bas-reliefs, connected to the cella by large slabs forming a beautifully decorated barrel ceiling. Geometric drawings frame the bust of various mythological deities. Among them, on the northern peristyle, we can recognize Cleopatra - stung by an aspic -, Mars, a winged victory.... The south-eastern part is less well preserved, with many columns collapsing below. The wonderfully carved cella portal will surprise visitors with its imposing dimensions. On the lintel, we can still see an eagle enclosing a caduceus and holding in its beak the ends of two garlands held by two winged geniuses. Inside the cella, the side walls are decorated with Corinthian columns. At the back, a staircase leads to the adyton, a sanctuary reserved for priests where the statue of the god was enthroned. Not all archaeologists agree on the nature of the divinity honored in this temple. For some, it would be Bacchus, others see it as the consecration of Venus or Jupiter. Some of the graffiti that covers the southwest wall of the sanctuary dates back to the 19th century. This temple was transformed into a barracks during the Arab period. To the left of the entrance to the Bacchus Temple, a tower built by the Mamluks in the 14th century reinforced the fortress. A small museum is located there. A staircase leads down to a small room where sarcophagi are kept, including the one of Douris which still contains a skeleton.

The exit from the acropolis is via an underground tunnel dating back to Roman times. These large galleries dug under the great courtyard accessed sort of stables housing animals for sacrifice and, on the outer sides, large recesses led to dwellings reserved for temple servants.

Trilithon. Leaving the acropolis, walk around the surrounding wall to contemplate a set of 3 stone blocks measuring approximately 19.5 m long by 4.5 m high and 4 m wide. Each weighs between 750 and 1,000 t.

The museum. Before reaching the exit of the site, it is possible to visit a small museum that exhibits some objects. The interest is mainly in the panels that retrace the history of the site and the archaeological excavations. Do not hesitate to take the time to stroll through this longitudinal museum. It is interesting and well done.

Temple of Venus. Located opposite the acropolis parking lot, from which it is separated by the road, the temple of Venus stands on a pentagonal podium. Its original design, in the shape of a horseshoe, and the interior sculptures (shells, doves) that decorate the cella pay homage to Venus, goddess of Love, Beauty and Fertility. Under the reign of Emperor Constantine, the temple was transformed into a church dedicated to Saint Barbara. On the other side of the street along the temple of Venus emerge the ruins of the great Umayyad mosque, apparently built on the remains of a church dedicated to Saint John.

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 Baalbek
2024

THE CELLARS OF KSARA

Street square and neighborhood to visit
5/5
3 reviews

Consecrated to vines from the Phoenician era, and already celebrated by the time of the Phoenicians and then the Romans in the temples of Bacchus, the domain of Ksara was bought in 1857 by the Jesuit fathers. In 1972 the Vatican II asked fathers to get rid of this property whose commercial exploitation is now guaranteed by wine professionals. The main shareholders are the Chaoui, Kassar, Sara and Sayegh families.

Dug in the hills, sheltered under a limestone rock, the castle cellars have a prestigious wine line. These are valued in Lebanon and throughout the world. The Ksara Castle, the first Lebanese winery with its size and seniority, has been awarded several times, together with wines from different fields: Ksara is grown in a clay-clay soil of varieties such as sauvignon, chardonnay, Grenache, cabernet sauvignon which give concentrated and aromatic wines; tanaïl which includes cinsault, Muscat and white ugni (among others); Vignes vines and finally the Kanafar where varieties of sémillon, chardonnay, clairette, syrah and many others are found. Guided tours and tastings are arranged daily upon reservation. The castle also has a restaurant and a shop.

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 Ksara
2024

UMAYYAD CITY OF ANJAR

Archaeological site
3.5/5
2 reviews

Surrounded by a fortified enclosure with four gates, the ruins form a quadrilateral measuring 370 m by 310 m, divided into four equal parts like a Roman camp. The wall has 36 semi-circular towers and 2 circular towers at the corners of the city. This enclosure is 7 m high and 2 m thick. It is mainly built from limestone. Dozens of graffiti from the Umayyad period have been found there. Since the beginning of the civil war in Syria, tourists have deserted Anjar: if the security situation allows it, the visit to the site can be magical: alone in the middle of the ruins, without any other visitor to break the charm.

Two main avenues (Cardo Maximus and Decumanus Maximus) - intersecting in the centre of the caravanserai - delimit the districts. These roads are bordered by hundreds of shops that highlight the commercial role of the city. At the crossroads of the axes stood a tetrapyle. This set of four pedestals topped by four columns formed a sort of triumphal arch. Along the path leading to the tetrapyle, a series of arcades opened onto the shops. A large part of the columns and capitals used were taken from neighbouring Roman sites, which explains the heterogeneous aspect of the architecture.

A small palace, probably housing the prince's harem, adorned the northeast corner of the site while a market, followed by a mosque, occupied the southeast corner.

At the rear stood the princely residence - or great palace - preceded by a beautiful inner courtyard. Part of the facade, made of alternating brick stones, has been reconstructed. Adjacent to the large palace is a small 200 m² mosque. It consists of an open courtyard with a well for ablutions and a prayer room with two bays. The main entrance to this mosque was along the east-west axis of the city. A second entrance was at the level of the souks.

The southwestern district seems to have grouped the dwellings together. Near the current entrance door, a hammam, built according to Roman traditions, had a warm shower room and a steam bath.

The caravanserai also had an advanced system for draining waste water out of the walls. You can still see the sewer manholes installed in the centre of the main tracks.

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 Anjar
2024

HIKES WITH NASSER CHREIF

Guided tours

From Yammouneh, hikers can embark on an excursion to Chlifa, which will lead them to a Roman tower. On the road, you will also find vestiges of the Roman path, built by the Emperor Domitien, who connected Yammouneh to Aqoura, the village of Mount-Lebanon.

It is possible to reach the Kadisha valley from the Bekaa. Cross the village of Aainata. The road runs on the slopes of Mont-Lebanon to the Col des Cèdres, located 2 650 m (often closed in winter). From here, you can admire magnificent panoramic views of the Bekaa plain, Anti-Lebanon, Mount Hermon to the south, and the other side, the Cedars and the Kadisha Valley.

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 Yammouneh
2024

THE SOURCES OF THE ORONT (AIN EZ-ZERQA)

Natural site to discover

200 m south-east of Deir Mar Maroun (the monastery of Saint-Maron) has emerged three sources (Dafache, Ain Zarka and Lahoue), including the «blue source» of the Orontes (Nahr el-Assi), also known as the «toppled river» or the «rebel river» because it flows from south to north.

This biblical landscape, in which the greenery contrasts with the kilometres of desert that stretches just a few feet away, invites to meditate and rest.

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 Ain Ez Zerqa
2024

RAS EL-AIN

Natural site to discover

By taking from the Acropolis, the main street crossing the city centre and continuing it over 1 km towards the restaurant district, you will reach the source of Ras el-Ain, a pleasant haven of freshness from many canals feeding the city and the gardens. There are still vestiges of a nymphée and a small Roman sanctuary. We also note the remains of a mosque dating back to 1277.

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 Baalbek
2024

AMMIQ SWAMPS

Natural site to discover

7 km south of Qab Elias in the direction of Lake Qaraoun, the Marécages wetlands occupy 280 hectares. The Ammiq region is a humid area classified by the Ramsar Convention (which aims to prevent the degradation of wetlands around the world). This private area is one of the largest swamps in the Bekaa and is on one of the bird migration routes in the Middle East. In total, more than 250 species of birds were registered in the sector. Some are threatened, such as pelicans, glaréoles, cranes, storks and snipe. In addition to its large variety of birds, a wide variety of animals live in and around the marsh. 23 mammal species were registered: wild cats, otters, reptiles and frogs. An observation zone has been set up. In addition, some tour associations and tour operators organise visits.

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 Ammiq