Heading towards a milder winter, it is in Nîmes that we reach the largest coastal area of the south of the country. If one necessarily passes there when one wants to reach the Mediterranean, it is however well for the Gard land that one will stop there. One of the first cities of the Great South, it is still far from the water and the atmosphere is very earthy. Nîmes the welcoming one, Nîmes the festive one, Nîmes the burning one, a face which pleases since the city often sees its summer population exceeding the million people. But after the feria days, the high point of the Nîmes agenda, an appreciable calm takes over the old city. And the old stones remind us that it is only one more season, and since there is time before the summer, we will take advantage of it to soak up the soul and the history of the place in all tranquillity. Strolls to meet a city and a country rich in its beauty, its traditions and its local products.

Nîmes, a historical city

The origin of the city goes back to the 5th century BC, but it is only in the year 27 BC that it is really organized. As a Roman colony wanted by Octavian Augustus, it became the emblem of the promotion of Romanity in the conquered territories. It was then surrounded by a 6 km long fortified enclosure, making it the third largest urban area in the Gallic provinces at that time. The city then experienced many tribulations and passed from hand to hand: Vandals, Visigoths, Saracens, it then belonged to the Counts of Toulouse and returned to the French crown in 1229. But the successive upheavals did not, as elsewhere, wipe out the past. Nîmes' Romanity is its pride and its asset. The ancient vestiges are here in an exceptional state of preservation and many beautiful things can only be seen here. For it is one of the magic of Nîmes: the arenas are there, built for almost 2,000 years, and they still stand as imposing to the modern eye as they did in past eras. Built at the end of the first century for the entertainment of the local population and with a capacity of 25,000 seats, they now host about twenty bullfights and Camargue races per year as well as some concerts and a festival. The city has a very rich heritage and one can only marvel at this direct relationship with history. Going up the boulevard Victor-Hugo, you will come across the square of the Maison Carrée, nothing less than the only entirely preserved ancient temple in the world, sitting with disconcerting ease in the heart of the city. This square is a fine example of perennial harmony, with the sanctuary sharing the limelight with the Carré d'Art, opposite, a small architectural jewel with contemporary lines. Then it's just a short walk to the Fountain Garden, which houses the Temple of Diana, and Mount Cavalier, on which the Magne Tower stands. Recently awarded the Ville d'Art et d'Histoire label for its historical heritage and the enhancement of its architecture, the city has been defending its inclusion in the Unesco World Heritage List for several years now, and if it is not yet a done deal, it is only a matter of time.

Taste and culture

A Roman city established in the Camargue, with Hispanic and Languedoc accents, a Protestant stronghold historically turned towards the Cevennes, the identity here is strong as well as plural. The cultural mosaic from which Nîmes draws its identity has naturally opened up to a wide and rich gastronomy of the most diverse inspirations. Nîmes, a place of exchange, was the birthplace of the famous brandade, cod being exchanged in abundance for salt from the Camargue at that time. The brandade is still unshakeable today, and coupled with the tapenade, the anchoïade and the local picholines, it inevitably leads to the Costières, to their fruity finesse and their beautiful ruby color. Most often Grenache and Syrah for a ruby and fragrant blend, with notes of red fruits and wild berries, to be consumed on the freshness of the fruit or to take home to mature for three to five years. But you will have to take advantage of the marriage with a gardiane, a stew of marinated bull meat, a specialty par excellence of the Camargue region. The zarzuela, brought by the Spaniards fleeing Franco's regime, has also entered the pantheon of Nîmes' gastronomy. And if you are hungry, pass by the market and try the small Nîmes pâté! You will also find it in some delicatessens and pastry shops of Nîmes

Camargue and Cevennes walks

While passing through the area, you can't miss the Pont du Gard, especially if the Roman buildings of Nîmes have marked you. Built around the year 50 and classified for many years as a Unesco World Heritage Site, the site is masterful. Once there, the hills of the Uzège, a land of garrigues and vineyards, are waiting for you, and Avignon is not far. But if you are still asking for it once you are out of Nîmes, pushing on to the Cevennes massifs is the best thing to do. Demanding and protective, it will be of particular interest to see them in the fall. You will feel the authentic character of these rough and grandiose landscapes. Above all, the land is not too crowded at the end of the summer, and you are finally a little alone, a necessary condition to feel this absolutely marvelous nature

North of Anduze, you can make a detour to Générargues and you will be astonished to find yourself in front of a vast bamboo forest winding through the first foothills of the Cevennes. Planted from 1856 by Eugene Mazel, this local jungle has benefited from very favorable climatic conditions. Today it is a park open to the public and beautifully landscaped, offering to discover many exotic plants and rare species. A small tour in the Camargue is not to be missed, and a total change of scenery will surprise you when crossing these unsuspected natural spaces. Second Mediterranean delta after the Nile, the place is unique in the world and the atmosphere you will find there will be a real change of scenery. Nîmes and its region will charm more than one person, offering frank discoveries through singular identities

Smart info

When is the best time to visit? The winters in the Gard are generally mild, even if the arrival of the good weather is obviously more pleasant to consider a getaway

How to get there. By plane : Flights from Paris can be found from 70 €. A shuttle bus makes the link with the city center. By train : Thanks to the TGV network, Nîmes is now less than 3 hours from Paris and Toulouse, 1 hour from Lyon and Marseille and 30 minutes from Montpellier. By road: A54 from Marseille and Italy, A7 from Avignon and Lyon, A9 from Montpellier and Spain.

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