Things to see and do Aegean Coast

You can go there early in the morning, before the arrival of the tourist buses and the sun, or in the afternoon, when the setting sun decorates the white rocks with multicolored reflections. Be careful, remove your shoes before walking on the wet surface. Note that it is also forbidden to bathe in the basins, as well as to wet your feet in the canals. The remains are scattered, so plan on 3 hours if you want to see everything.

Thermal baths. Open every day from 9am to 12:30pm and from 1:30pm to 6pm. Entrance fee. The impressive complex of the thermal baths proves the importance that the Romans gave to the ritual of hygiene which concerned as much the ordinary citizen as the athletes. Originally, the large vaulted rooms were covered with marble. Today they house an archaeological museum with some interesting statues.

Street with porticoes. This street, approximately 13 m wide, crossed the city with, at each end, a monumental door. The part lined with columns is located in the old commercial district of Hierapolis. It leads to the Domitian Gate, built in 82 AD, in honor of the emperor.

Theater. This well-preserved Roman theater, which could seat 25,000 spectators, is the venue for the Pamukkale Festival of Art every summer. The stage is decorated with beautiful bas-reliefs representing Artemis, Apollo and Dionysus.

Plutonium. After passing the ruins of a temple of Apollo of the ^IInd century, as well as the nymphaeum, a monumental fountain, we arrive at Plutonium. This famous cave dedicated to Pluto, the ruler of the dead, gives off a toxic gas capable of killing the common man, but not the eunuch priests. It is strongly advised not to try the experience.

Martyrion of Saint-Philippe. Octagonal building built to commemorate the martyrdom of the apostle Philip (80 AD). It is not certain that it houses the tomb of the saint. However, it was here that the great processions took place on the anniversary of his death.

Necropolis. Certainly the most interesting part of the visit, at least for those who will not be disturbed by the impressive number of tombs suggesting apocalyptic pictures. Many of the sick who came here in the hope of being cured by the miraculous thermal waters never saw their homeland again. At least their relatives had the consolation of thinking that buried in this place, communicating directly through its gaseous crevices with the afterlife, they would not have too painful a journey..

The archaeological site has two entrances, a main one, near the Tusan Motel (parking fee) and another one at the other end, towards the house of the Virgin. In front of the main entrance, you will find souvenir shops, cafes and restaurants with prohibitive prices.

History. Ephesus is one of the most important Ionian cities in Asia Minor. According to the legend, during the prehistoric period, it was inhabited by the Amazons who introduced the cult of Artemis. The Carians and Pelasgians are considered the first inhabitants of the city. The tradition wants that towards the ^XVIIth century before J.-C., Androclès, son of Kodros king of Athens, had disembarked there with Ionian colonists and that after having overcome the Carians, it was installed in Ephesus. The city, democratic city around 800 BC, knows a tyrannical regime two centuries and half later, around 650. One of the tyrants, Pythagoras, was so cruel that he refused access to the sanctuary of Artemis to all those who came to ask for asylum, condemning them to commit suicide or to die of hunger. Later, the city is conquered by Croesus, king of Lydia. The latter was defeated by the Persians who occupied Ephesus until 470 BC. At this date, the liberation of the Ionian cities allows the development of democratic institutions. During the wars opposing Athens to Sparta, Ephesus takes side sometimes for the first one and sometimes for the second. Alexander the Great visited the city and offered a sacrifice to Artemis. After his death, the city was conquered by Antigone, then by Lysimachus who moved the inhabitants near a new port and built several important public buildings. He called this new city Arsinoia, after the name of his wife Arsinoe. But in 284 BC, after the death of his successor Agathocles, the people of Ephesus rose up and gave back its original name to the city where they demolished several monuments erected by Lysimachus. From then on, the city was coveted by the Seleucids and the Ptolemies of Egypt. However, Ephesus will know a golden age under the Roman domination and will be named capital of the province of Asia. In the ^2nd century B.C., with a population of 225,000, it was considered the most populous city in the East after Alexandria. In 29 AD, an earthquake destroyed many of its monuments and houses. During the Christian era, Ephesus regained a prominent role with the arrival of the apostle Paul who founded a Christian community there. According to tradition, the Virgin Mary spent the last years of her life here. The decadence of Ephesus began in the ^3rd century, when the Goths invaded Asia Minor. Later, other conquerors, the Mongols and the Tatars will destroy it several times. The Byzantines will give him the Christian name of Aghios Theologos (holy Theologian), undoubtedly at the origin of the name of the current Turkish village, Ayasoluk. The excavations of the site begin in 1864, they are then directed by the English archaeologist Wood.

The impressive remains that you can see today date from the Roman and chrono-Hellenistic periods. Visit the site taking care not to miss the Arcadian Way, the library of Celsius, the street of the Curetes with the latrines and the temple of Hadrian and the terraced houses.

Gymnasium of Vedius. On the left, before reaching the entrance of the site, the gymnasium of Vedius, built in the ^2nd century AD by a rich citizen. Here, the ruins of the baths. The stadium, close to the baths, was built by Nero.

Church of the Councils. Follow the sign "Meryem Ana Kilisesi" which leads to a Roman covered market, transformed in the ^4th century into a basilica dedicated to the Virgin. Its historical importance is due to the two councils that were held here. The first, in 431, led to the condemnation of Nestorianism, a heresy that affirmed the dual nature of Christ, human and divine. The second, in 449, concluded that Christ had only one divine nature, a theory that is at the origin of the monophysism professed today by the Jacobite Church of Syria, the Armenian Church and the Coptic Church of Egypt. Among the ruins, the baptistery is surprisingly well preserved.

Arcadian Way. At the entrance to the site, a majestic road lined with pine trees, which was restored in the^5th century by the Byzantine emperor Acadius. Connecting the theater to the sea, which today has retreated 10 km, it was lined with columns of Corinthian rhythm that delimited deep galleries. Those, with the ground covered with mosaics, sheltered stores. The night, they were illuminated by torches. To the north of the Arcadian way, you can see the ruins of the gymnasium and the baths.

Theater. At the foot of Mount Pion is the great theater of the city. It could hold 24,000 spectators. It is perhaps here that Saint Paul addressed the people of Ephesus. The theater hosted, in summer, events of the festival of Ephesus (concerts, shows) it is no longer the case today because it is weakened.

Street of marble. This street, which starts from the theater, has large well-preserved marble slabs, dating from the^5th century A.D. Notice the footprint and the female head clearly visible on the marble, which were said to indicate the direction of a brothel.

Lower Agora. After the triumphal arch. It consisted of a large square, lined with galleries which sheltered rooms, warehouses and stores. A large hydraulic or solar clock occupied the center of the agora. The whole place was decorated with magnificent statues. To the south of the agora, stood an imposing temple dedicated to the cult of Serapis.

Library of Celsius. This spectacular building was built by the son of the senator Celsius, Aquila, completed in 130 AD and restored by the archaeological school of Vienna. The statues adorning the two-story façade (the four intellectual virtues) are copies of the marble originals that you can admire in Vienna. Outside the library was a large lecture hall; the Byzantines added a fountain adjacent to the façade. On the east side, there was an octagonal building whose roof formed a pyramid decorated with a huge marble ball. The manuscripts were preserved from humidity thanks to a clever system of double walls with a corridor allowing air circulation. The Goths destroyed the library's treasures when they invaded Ephesus in 262 A.D., but they did not desecrate the tomb of its founder, which was located under the west wing of the building.

Rue des Curètes. The second main street of the site, named after a category of priests of Artemis, leads to the very well preserved latrines. Behind, the ruins of the baths of Scholastica of the ^first century, restored. Right next to the latrines stands the elegant Corinthian temple, built in honor of Hadrian in 118 AD who visited Ephesus several times. The four columns of the facade carry a pediment with the bust of Tyke, the goddess of the city, in the center. On the tympanum above the door, a bust of a young girl representing Medusa. The bas-reliefs that adorn it were added later (originals in the Selçuk Museum). Opposite the temple of Hadrian, turn left for the terraced houses of the rich inhabitants of Ephesus. The walls of the rooms around the patios are decorated with mosaics. These houses were provided with running water, even in the floors. Returning to the street of Curetes, admire the fountain of Trajan (^2nd century) and decorated with imposing statues. The most important ones are in the Selçuk Museum. Further up, the Gate of Hercules (early^5th century) divides the street which, on one side, leads to the temple of Domitian and the Museum of Inscriptions and on the other, to the upper agora.

In front of the agora stood the prytaneum where the sacred flame of the city burned continuously and where the prytanes of Ephesus met. The odeon could accomodate 1 400 senators. After the baths of Varius, we arrive at the second exit of the site. Further on, on the left, the gate of Magnesia indicates us what were the real limits of the ancient city.

The ramparts, which surrounded the centre of the city, were 3.5 km long. The path, opposite the museum, leads to the theatre (1st century BC) built by Julus Zoilos, a freed slave of Emperor Octavian. The north wall, 5 m high, bears Greek inscriptions from the 2nd and 3rd centuries.

Behind the theatre is the Tetrastoon, a large square bounded by four (tetra) porticoes (stoai) and connected to the Imperial Hall of the Baths. Next to it is a cloakroom, a bathroom and a sweat room. Then, on the right, the Sebastêion, sanctuary of the deified emperor Augustus, supposed to be a descendant of Aphrodite.

Composed of two parallel rows of half-columns superimposed on three floors, it was decorated with decorative panels depicting mythological scenes. A series of bas-reliefs show the peoples conquered by Augustus. To the left of the Sebasteion, some columns among the poplars indicate the location of the agora, which consisted of two Ionic porticoes. The southern portico, Tiberius' portico, was decorated with impressive friezes, with heads of historical and mythological figures linked by garlands. To the west of the Tiberius portico, the ruins of Hadrian's baths stand. Continuing, on the right, a peristyle indicates the Episcopal palace, residence of a notable, converted into the residence of the bishop of Aphrodisias.

Overall plan. Near the temple of Aphrodite, a path leads to the well-preserved stadium, which could hold 30,000 people. 262 m long and 59 m wide, it was used for athletic games. To the north of the temple are the remains of six private houses. One of them housed a school of philosophy. Aphrodisias was home to a large Jewish community. A series of inscriptions indicate the existence of a synagogue, and an engraved pillar bears the names and professions of a number of Jews.

Next to it is a well-preserved odeon. Originally, it was used for artistic events and meetings of the city council. The mosaic that covered the floor of the orchestra is in the museum.

Next door, the most important monument of the city, the temple of Aphrodite, is easily identified by its fourteen columns, but its structure was largely modified when the Byzantines transformed it into a basilica.

To the east of the temple stands the tetrapylon, a decorative door consisting of four rows of four columns topped by richly decorated pediments. Magnificent!

Very extensive, it requires a long visit. The old part of the city, near Kızıl Avlu, is very endearing.

The acropolis is perched on top of a rocky hill overlooking the modern city of Bergama, 5 kilometers from the museum. It is best to take a cab. As you enter, on the left you can see the Heroon, a temple in honor of the rulers of Pergamon. A path leads to the site of the sanctuary of Zeus, in an idyllic environment. Eumenes II had it built in 180 BC to commemorate the victory of his father against the Galatians. The building is considered one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World. Today, only the base of the sanctuary is visible, all the rest was transferred to Berlin. Behind it was a temple of Athena. Continuing north, you reach the library and the temple of Trajan. From the temple of Athena, steps lead to the Hellenistic theater, which, clinging to the side of the acropolis, is particularly impressive. Provided with a mobile wooden stage, it could contain 10 000 people. To the south of the sanctuary of Zeus is the temple of Demeter, the oldest building on the site (^3rd century B.C.) and next to it, the gymnasium. From the hill of the acropolis you can clearly see the ancient aqueduct.

Asclepion. To reach the Asclepion, dedicated to Asclepius, god of medicine, take a path west of the modern city. Attention, photos are forbidden, the building is near a military zone. The Asclepion was founded by Archias, a citizen of the city who had been cured at the Asclepion of Epidaurus. But the medical school of Pergamon became famous in the ^2nd century A.D. thanks to Galen who researched the functioning of the circulatory and nervous systems. His work is fundamental for the history of medicine. Thermal baths, massages and herbal teas were prescribed to the sick in Pergamon, as well as psychological cures. The Asclepion was also frequented by philosophers. The present remains date for the most part from the time of Hadrian (^2nd century). The snake that you see engraved in several buildings is the symbol of Asclepios. Following the Sacred Way, you arrive at the temple of Asclepius, a circular construction, at the library and at a small Roman theater of 3 500 seats. After the sacred fountain, an underground passage leads to the temple of Telesphorus.

In the 3rd century, seven young Christians from Ephesus, persecuted, took refuge in this cave, the exit of which was blocked by Roman soldiers. They fell into a deep sleep that lasted 192 years according to some, 309 years for others. After their death, they are buried in the cave, a chapel is built on their graves. This cave was used as a burial place until the end of the Byzantine era. The location of the tombs, which became a place of pilgrimage, is clearly visible.

In the 19th century, a German nun, Catherine Emmerich, had a vision of the Virgin's dwelling at Ephesus. Priests discover the house that matches his description. In 1967, the Pope visited the site and confirmed the veracity of the vision. Since then, pilgrims from all over the world have flocked to the humble house, transformed into a chapel. A service is celebrated on 15 August by Orthodox Christians and Muslims. No dolmuş for the journey: your legs or the taxi.

Discovered by the American Archaeological School of Athens in 1882, it is partly restored. At an altitude of 238 m, this Doric temple is characteristic of archaic Greek architecture with its six columns spaced further apart than it will be afterwards. The setting of the site is simply sublime: its founders were not guided by chance... The sunset (or sunrise) attracts the crowd. You will meet campers, picnickers, romantics, a drink in hand... The caretaker is rarely present outside the usual hours and it is easy to get in.

Isabey Mosque is a 14th century Seljuk mosque erected in the times of the Emirate of Aydın, at the foot of Ayasuluk Hill, with a remarkable stalactite portal. The restoration of the building has left the ancient materials used by its builders clearly visible. Note the bust of the Emir of Aydın. The courtyard of the caravanserai is a haven of peace. The building is still in operation but is open to the public outside of prayer hours.

Ancient fortress of the Aegean Sea, a major beauty in Asia Minor, St. Peter's Castle is the main attraction of the city. This imposing fortress built of white stone overlooks the Aegean Sea and is located on the site of the ancient acropolis. The castle was built between 1404 and 1522 by the Knights Hospitallers of St. John of Jerusalem to protect the city from pirate attacks in the eastern Mediterranean. Its towers are guarded by representatives of different nationalities and its thick crenellated walls were once surrounded by a moat, filled with sea water and rainwater to prevent invaders from entering. Ten years after its completion, Suleiman the Magnificent expelled the Knights, and this huge fortress surrounded by the sea on three of its sides was turned into a jail. Over time, the castle has undergone many renovations and extensions, it will serve as a military garrison and Turkish baths. Particularly well preserved, it remains a remarkable example of Frankish military architecture of the late Middle Ages. Since 1962, St. Peter's Castle has been the official home of the Bodrum Museum of Underwater Archaeology. It is one of the largest museums dedicated to underwater archaeology in the world. You will discover a unique collection of objects recovered by divers from wrecked ships such as gold jewelry, coins, ancient objects made of glass, bronze, clay and iron, sculptures and models of ancient ships. The exhibits are organized chronologically, from the Bronze Age to the Roman era. The most impressive room is the one devoted to the ancient stone sarcophagi found in the region, which date back to the Roman period. Visitors can admire detailed carvings and relief inscriptions that tell the story of the characters depicted.

Classified as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2016, the Château Saint-Pierre is occasionally used as a venue for cultural events. Its interior courtyard is popular for weddings. Do not miss the beautiful Andalusian garden and the chapel. However, you will have to climb a few steps to reach the top of its towers. Your efforts will be rewarded: from the castle walls, visitors can enjoy spectacular views of Bodrum Bay and the Aegean Sea.

The ascent is rough to reach the site (10-15 minutes of ascent) with large stone steps. Priene is a city built according to the checkerboard plan of Hippodamus of Miletus. The terraced layout of the ruins allows for a panoramic view of the area and the curves of the Meander River. From the main entrance, you have to climb several steps to reach the bouleutêrion, seat of the Senate, very well preserved. The marble base that you can see in the center was an altar used for ritual sacrifices. Going down, you discover the real center of the city. The fragments of some Doric or Ionian columns prove the location of the stoa. Next to it, the temple of Zeus and the agora are located. It is still necessary to go up to see the ruins, in very bad state, of the gymnasium, the stadium and the baths.

It is better to go to the residential area, below the agora, which allows you to see the structure of the houses in the 4th century BC, with the rooms distributed around an inner court. A little higher up, five columns testify to the location of the magnificent temple of Athena Pallas created by the famous architect Pytheus. Going down towards the exit, you can see the theater, in good condition, with the places of honor clearly visible. Behind it are the ruins of a Byzantine basilica. Only the very motivated will climb the path that leads to the site of the ancient acropolis, they will be rewarded by the beauty of the landscape.

Most travelers limit their visit to the theater, the major attraction of the site. The Roman construction visible today, built on the site of a 4th century Greek theater, could hold 20,000 spectators. The magnificent galleries of circulation, very well preserved, gave access to the terraces. From the top of the hill of the theater, you can realize the geographical situation of the ancient city of which you distinguish the vestiges. Miletus extended then on a peninsula which formed two ports: that of the Theater and that of the Lions. The Byzantine castle whose ruins you see is built with stones of the theater. If you take the path to the right of the theater, you will come to the baths of Faustina, wife of Marcus Aurelius (150 AD). Next to a pool of cold water stands a decapitated statue of the river Meander. A few meters further on, you can see the mosque of Ilyas Bey which dates from the beginning of the 15th century. The earthquake of 1958 deprived it of its minaret, but its mihrâb is beautifully carved and the interior squatted by storks. Passing the southern agora, you arrive at the bouleutêrion, the Senate which, as an inscription proves, was built in the 2nd century B.C. by Tinarchos and Heracleidos in honor of the Syrian king Antiochos IV. Opposite, was the nymphaeum, a sanctuary dedicated to the nymphs, dating from the 1st century AD. On the right, stood the temple of Aesculapius on which, in the^5th century, was built a Byzantine church now in ruins. A little further on was the most important monument of the city, the delphinion, sanctuary of Apollo, protector of the harbors and the ships, after the agora of the north, above the port of the Lions (so named because of the two marble fawns which guarded its entry).

Outside the summer period, the site beyond the theater is often difficult to explore because the rain turns the land into swamp. But when the waters recede, the spectacle is surreal. Not to be missed.

The museum is located1 km from the main entrance of the site.

Idea for a lunch break in Karin: an excellent fish lunch in a soothing setting, much more pleasant than on the side of the road, or at the foot of a site overcrowded with people. Between Milet and Priene, follow the direction of Priene, then take a left towards Doğanbey and go to the very end of the road.

It is very crowded but you will not regret visiting this museum which houses a fascinating collection of recent finds from the site of Ephesus presented in a thematic order. In room I, effigies of the phallic gods Bes and Priape, interesting miniatures, and a magnificent statuette of Eros on a dolphin. In room II, statues illustrating the adventure of Ulysses and the Cyclops Polyphemus. In room V, the marbles of Artemis, originally a mother goddess.

Start at Ayasoluk Hill where St. John the Theologian is buried. Enter through the Gate of Persecution built by the Byzantines in the 6th century. After his exile on the island of Patmos, Saint John returned to Ephesus around the year 97 and wrote his Gospel there. He died two years later, and on the site of his grave a small church was built. In the 6th century, it became a basilica destroyed in 1402 by Tamerlan. Go up to the Byzantine fortress. The tower of the ramparts offers a panoramic view of the region, the caravanserai and the Isa Bey mosque.

The impressive head of Medusa with its hair of snakes welcomes you. Originally, it decorated the frieze of the temple; its twin sister is in the basilica cistern in Istanbul. The sacred well is just below it. The pilgrims who wished to question the pythia, paid a sum varying according to the nature of the problem and sacrificed an animal to Apollo. Before the sacrifice, the priests sprinkled the animal with cold water from the well and, according to its reactions, decided whether the god wanted to answer the question asked. Then the pilgrim entered the sanctuary through a forest of 108 gigantic Ionic columns. Although only three of them have kept their original size, one can imagine the effect of this temple which was one of the three largest in the Hellenistic world - the other two being that of Artemis in Ephesus and that of Hera in Samos. Notice the rich decoration of the bases of the columns. After climbing a few steps, one descends to the pronaos, the vestibule of the sanctuary where the visitor formulated his question to the priest. The walls are preserved, but originally the vestibule was covered with an elaborate ceiling. The priest, after having crossed a room and a corridor, arrived at theadyton, interior court with a small room sheltering the statue of Apollo, and transmitted the message to the pythia. This one, after having tasted the water of the sacred source, chewed laurel leaves and entering in trance, was delirious in an often confused language.

One hour by ferry (20 minutes by hydrofoil), this island of the Dodecanese does not offer a very different face from that of Bodrum except for the Turkish doner which becomes the Greek gyros. You will go there for its beaches or for a walk. The ideal is to rent a scooter to go around the island. Remember that Hippocrates (460-357 BC), the founder of the first school of medicine, is from Kos. The beach of Tigaki is often crowded. On the other side are the beaches of Kefalos, the most beautiful beaches of the island: quiet with clear water.

Researchers have unearthed 9 successive layers representing the different periods of Troy's history, from the Bronze Age to the Roman period. At the entrance, a kitsch reconstruction of the famous wooden horse, as well as the house where Schliemann stayed during his research. A signposted route makes the visit easier. You can also distinguish the walls built at different periods, a birch tree from the 9th century BC and a Roman temple dedicated to Athena.

Carved into the rock face, located at the northern end of the city on a hill, is a Hellenistic theater. Built in the 4th century BC, the monument has been restored. Originally, it could accommodate 13,000 people. Walking on the steps of the theater is the ideal walk to enjoy the sun setting over the bay of Bodrum and the castle. The view is splendid. In the summer, many concerts and shows are given in the enclosure, it is complicated to park but it is the promise of nice evenings.

One of the seven wonders of the world. The tomb of king Mausole is the symbol of the city. With its 46 m height, it was out of the ordinary: its rectangular base supported 36 Ionic columns surmounted by a roof in the shape of a pyramid and it was decorated with statues of Mausole and Artemisia on a quadriga. After its destruction by an earthquake and its plundering by the knights, there is not much left of this marvel of antiquity. Archaeological excavations have brought its foundations to light. The models still help to get an idea.

The beach of Sarmısaklı, 8 km away, accessible by dolmus, is the most beautiful in the area. It is a large sandy spit that stretches for 4 km south of the town. Don't be afraid of the translation of its name!(Sarmısaklı plaj means "the garlic beach"). The beach is very crowded as it is one of the stops for tour operators and a large part of it is overrun by hotels and restaurants. But if you are willing to walk a bit, you will discover secluded corners like Badavut Bay, further west, where there are small, quieter restaurants.

The park features pebble beaches that give water a magnificent colour, animal observation points, waterfalls, hiking trails or cycling trails, botanical trails… The site is really superb and richly deserves displacement. It is possible to spend several days without getting tired. Many beaches are often very crowded on weekends. But in the week, you may only have 2 or 3 people.

The village of Güzelçamlı is adjacent to the park and is an excellent option for those who wish to enjoy the region while avoiding the overloaded atmosphere of Kusadasi.