Things to see and do Nile Valley

During the reign of Ramses II, Nefferenpet or Kenro was chief scribe of the Treasury of the domain of Amun-Ra, one of the highest offices of the time. The tomb is decorated with refined paintings. The deceased's wife, Moutemouia, is present at his side. The scenes are essentially religious: praise and adoration of the gods, a funeral procession, but there are also less formal scenes depicting Neferrenpet supervising the work carried out by the men at the treasury. The beautiful ceilings of this tomb are adorned with elaborate motifs.

Built on the road leading to the great Aswan Dam, it is impossible to miss this imposing and strange building whose architect seems to be inspired by a mixture of Nubian art and Soviet style. In the tradition of propaganda museums developed by every Egyptian president, the latter, inaugurated in early 2016, pays a heartfelt tribute to former Marshal Abdel Fattah al Sissi, elected two years earlier. But for once, there is no question of the greatness of the Egyptian army. The hero is the Nile, represented at the entrance by a fountain that rises to the ceiling. The eleven African flags, hung all around, are a reminder of the continuum that exists between these countries and the solidarity that should flow from it.

Right wing: a tribute to the Aswan dams. After the medals awarded by Nasser and the USSR to the builders of the 1964 dam, an ancient Egyptian waxwork takes a break. Without further explanation, the window next door displays a letter from Nasser celebrating the Aswan Dam and a letter from al Sissi praising the Nile Museum. The massive models of the 1898 and 1964 dams are of great interest. It is easy to see that the older one let more water through thanks to its hundred or so small openings, whereas the new dam has only about forty small windows. A junk shop window in the corridor follows, where different types of national pride are jostling for position.

Left wing: memorial objects. The fashion for holograms also seems to have reached Egypt. The first is Alaa Bacha Mubarak, the inventor of the Qanater dams north of Cairo. The second, in the background, is the Minister of Irrigation at the inauguration of this museum. The room is dotted with objects belonging to some countries of the Nile basin and technologies that were used in the construction of the Aswan dam.

^1st floor. The eleven "brother" countries were asked to furnish it, but the small number of donations says a lot about the political divisions that remain deep. It is, all the same, the only space in the museum where the daily life of the people of the Nile is evoked through paintings by Egyptian artists. Crowded aquariums close the visit.

Archive library. Open on request, it is a gold mine for those looking for archive photos, old newspaper articles and original maps of the Aswan Dam

At the top of this hill of granite blocks where hieroglyphics and pharaonic drawings can still be seen very clearly, a stele tells of a particularly difficult episode in the reign of Djeser (3rd dynasty) in the year 19. On this rock, recognizable by the fault that crosses it in the middle from left to right, about 40 lines of hieroglyphs evoke the terrible drought that had been raging for seven years to the despair of the king and the population. Here is an excerpt: "I was in sorrow on my throne.... My heart was in such great sorrow because the Nile had not come in time for seven years. The grain was scarce, the seeds were dried up, all we had to eat was in meager quantity. "The priests believe that the angry god Khnum, who is holding back the waters of the Nile, is responsible. To appease him, Djeser is seen making offerings to the god. The scriptures detail the dream of the most important priest of the kingdom in which the deity appears and promises the return of the water. The next day, the king passes a decree to renovate the temple of Khnum on Elephantine Island and to furnish it more regularly with offerings.

Panorama of the old dam. Climbing on this rocky hill (forget the flip-flops, by the way) also gives a better understanding of what the Nile and Nubia looked like before the Aswan dam wanted by Nasser. The first flat island just in front of it was then under water.

This elevated garden, rich in opulent tree species, was created by King Farouk in honour of his daughter Féryal. Rendezvous for families and lovers. A pleasant break after visiting the Nubian Museum which is only a few meters away. The view is the same as that of the Old Cataract, which a small wall separates from the garden. There are paths running through it, and the vegetation is very rich. The locals walk there with friends and family.

Across the road, you'll find the Fatimid cemetery. Charming place overlooking the Nile and Elephantine Island.

This introduction to Nubian daily life and the history of the region is highly recommended. It will give you an understanding of the conflicts in the community and the complex relations with the Egyptian authorities. Aware that the Nubian heritage was in danger of disappearing, Mohammed and his wife Fatma took it upon themselves to build this small museum on the ground floor of their own house. Mohammed will show you all the objects from a Nubian house, a series of stuffed animals from Lake Nasser and Nubian stones.

Built in 1995 only thanks to private donations, the Cathedral of Archangel Michael is the second largest cathedral in Egypt. Its 3,500 square meters can hold 3,000 worshippers. This cathedral is home to the Orthodox Christians. Beyond the nave richly decorated with oak wood icons, it impresses above all by its two 44-metre high towers. Its white dome rises above the cornice. It is located a few meters from the Nubian Museum.

The site consists of a small museum and the archaeological site of Egyptian ruins.

Museum. Interesting collection of pharaonic statuettes, pottery and jewellery.

Archaeological site. Excavations have uncovered objects dating back to Thutmosis III (18th Dynasty). It is here that the temple of Khnum was erected but destroyed in the 19th century by Mohammed Ali.

Nilometer. Several times restored, this scale of measurement dates from the cartouches of Amenophis III

Halfway between Cairo and Luxor, Asyut was the starting point for the caravans that went to the oases. Formerly called Lycopolis, the Greeks commemorated the cult of Oupouaout, who was seen as the protector of the city. This deity is represented in the form of a canid. The burial caves, which can be seen on the site, are dug into the mountain walls and are thought to contain the tombs of the pharaohs of Dynasties IX, X and XII, such as Chety I and II. The tomb of Meir contains the tomb of the Princes of Qusseia.

Built between 1964 and 1970, this impressive dam has pharaonic dimensions: 3,600 m long, 111 m high, 980 m wide at the base, reduced to 40 m at the top. It was President Nasser's project, carried out with the help of Soviet Russia. Today, it produces between 5 and 7% of the country's energy with 12 generators. It was built to manage the Nile's high water levels, prevent flooding and create a water reserve. It has been blamed for reducing the Nile's silt content. Its construction caused major displacement of the population and archaeological sites.

Early in the morning, the square turns into a gigantic cattle fair where, in a feverish atmosphere, the merchants count their tickets and engage in a noisy bidding war. A sale of leather whips, skillfully woven, is organized. The camel market itself is held twice a week, on Saturdays and Sundays, and the rest of the week the place is transformed into a market of cows, sheep, goats... Introduced by the Greeks, camels are not among the animals originally used by the Egyptians.

To the west of the enclosure, some three hundred meters north of that of his father Seti ^I, Ramses II had a small temple built, comprising a courtyard, 2 hypostyle halls and side chapels. On the pylon, the king had his victory at the Battle of Qadesh depicted. Despite the loss of the upper parts of the walls, the lower parts show remarkable decoration. Its architecture is classical and its layout follows that of Theban funerary temples. In 2023, 2,000 mummified rams' heads from the Ptolemaic era were discovered.

At the foot of the West Mountain, near Quseya. This is one of the most sacred places for the Copts of Egypt. Surrounded by an imposing medieval wall, it was built around a grotto where the Holy Family is said to have found shelter when they fled to Egypt, before returning to Palestine. The oldest church in the monastery dates back to 38 AD, and is believed to be the oldest in the Christian world. An important stopover for pilgrims following in the footsteps of the Holy Family in Egypt.

The Osirion Cenotaph is a curious edifice, built in line with the central chapel of Amun Ra in the temple of Sety ^I, and buried underground. It was accessed via a hundred-meter-long corridor, opposite to the current view of the site. Today, the temple is reached via a long, gently sloping corridor, the walls of which are covered with texts from the "Book of Gates" and the "Book of Caverns". A cenotaph was not intended to contain a body, but a symbolic tomb for souls, so this was Osiris' spiritual tomb. It was conceived as an island, the plan of which is repeated in The Secret of the Great Pyramid when Blake and Mortimer reach the secret chamber.

The vestibule gave access to a water-filled moat, surrounded by 17 niches. On the symbolic island, covered by a ceiling supported by ten massive pillars, the architect excavated the fictitious location of Osiris' sarcophagus, as well as the fictitious location of the canopic vases containing the God's viscera. Crossing the water-filled moat again, we reach the cenotaph of Sety ^I. The themes depicted on the walls are a mark of respect for Horus, the reconstitution of the divine body, and the transmission of royal power from Osiris to Horus, and thus to Pharaoh. You can go down there if you wish, water levels permitting. The last room, known as the "sarcophagus", features an astronomical ceiling with a representation of the goddess Nut.

Amun-Her-Khepeshef was one of the five sons of King Ramses III. He was supposed to succeed his father, but died at the age of 15. Access to the vestibule and burial chamber is via a descending ramp. This depicts the prince preceded by his father, whom he presents to the deities. Extracts from the Book of the Dead are read. The sarcophagus, located in the back annex, originally rested in the burial chamber. The paintings are still very fresh.

This small late Ptolemaic temple, dedicated to Hathor and Maät, gave its name to the valley when Coptic monks established a small monastery there. It has little prestige, yet it is worth a visit. The quality of its reliefs and the interest of the themes covered make it an important place. Several scenes are put into perspective, such as the representation of King Ptolemy IX offering milk to a child on Hathor's lap. We see Maat breathing life into her.

Inerkhaou was Pharaoh's foreman, Lord of the Two Lands. He served Ramses III and IV. Entrance is via a vestibule followed by a staircase that leads to the burial chamber. Passages from the Book of the Dead are illustrated on the walls of both rooms, the vestibule being less well preserved than the chamber. A fine representation of the Ished tree, in blue, and of the god Apophis are particularly noteworthy. After the tomb of Sennedjem, this is one of the best-preserved tombs. The singular paintings do not fit into the artistic canon of the period.

Sennedjem was a special craftsman: he was an artist who had the opportunity to work under the glorious reigns of Seti ^I and his son Ramses II. You enter through the side wall into a single, vaulted chamber. The richness of the decoration is unusual for a craftsman, and is reminiscent of a royal tomb, but its recipient was also its author... Scenes from the Book of the Dead are depicted, as well as Sennedjem and his wife Inyferti. This is the only tomb in the Valley to have been found complete, and its furnishings are on display in Cairo.

Khaemwasat is one of the sons of Ramses III. He died in the 28th year of his royal father's reign. One enters a vestibule dominated by an astronomical ceiling. On the left wall of the vestibule, Ramses III, followed by his sons, faces Thoth and Anubis. Two annexes face the vestibule: the deceased is presented to different deities. The funerary chamber succeeds the vestibule; its walls are decorated according to the Book of the Dead. The sarcophagus is no longer there: found in pieces, it can be seen in part in the Egyptian Museum in Turin.

Ramses IV reigned for six years, during which time he built this beautiful tomb with its remarkable granite sarcophagus. Note the superb scenes painted with the goddess Nut on the astronomical ceiling, symbolizing rebirth with perfectly preserved colors. Nut swallows the solar disk and it emerges through her feet, symbolizing the daily renewal of sunrise and sunset. Coptic graffiti, created by monks at the very beginning of the Christian era when they were inventing monasticism, are also noteworthy.

Local agency Dahabiya Nile Sailing specializes in organizing dahabieh cruises on the Nile. Samir's programs are designed to let you discover the treasures of Egypt as travelers of the past did, on a magnificent sailing boat with a select group. The agency belongs to the Real Egypt group, which specializes in tailor-made tours of Egypt and offers guaranteed departure dates all year round. Our team of qualified French-speaking guides and advisors will help you organize the trip of your dreams.