2024

MADABA INSTITUTE FOR MOSAIC ART AND RESTORATION

Schools colleges and universities to visit
5/5
1 review

Founded in 2007, the Institute of Mosaic Art and Restoration is an association run by the Jordanian government. Its mission is to become a center of excellence in the conservation, restoration and creation of mosaics. The institute trains mosaicists who, upon completion of their studies, will be responsible for preserving Jordan's cultural heritage. In addition, the Institute promotes mosaics by producing new creations.

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 Madaba
2024

THE FORTRESS OF KERAK

Monuments to visit
4/5
8 reviews

The citadel of Kerak, which can be seen majestically from the north along the Kings' Road, extends over some 220 metres and varies in width from 125 metres on the side facing the town to 40 metres. Work began in 1140 and was completed two years later. The fortress was commissioned by Payen le Bouteiller, appointed lord of Outre-Jourdain in 1132 by King Foulque of Jerusalem. The castle was intended to form part of a strategic defensive line to secure the eastern front of Christian territory, between Aqaba and Turkey. Built on two levels, the fortress has a large number of vaulted rooms and passages that form a veritable labyrinth. Take a torch with you if you want to explore the darker parts. The northern front of the castle, facing the city, consists of a huge shield wall, built by the Crusaders from dark brown stones that were barely roughed in. Later, the Muslims replaced these stones with limestone slabs in some parts of the fortress, giving the building a more pleasing aesthetic. You will see, during your visit, that it is easy to tell the difference between the two.

The entrance to the castle is through the Ottoman gate. During the Crusader era, the entrance was through the postern to the left of the wall, opposite the present entrance. This gate was protected by a 30-metre deep moat and connected to the city by a wooden bridge that was easy to burn in case of an attack.

After the ticket office, take the path on the left that leads to two levels of vaulted galleries dating back to the Crusader era. The lower level was originally used as stables and leads to the Crusader Gate. This narrow gate was built in such a way that defenders wishing to return to its walls would expose their left side, and thus their shield, to the enemy. At the end of the gallery, a carved stone representing a bust recalls the occupation of the site by the Nabataeans in the 2nd century, well before the construction of the fort. The inhabitants of Kerak will tell you that it is a representation of Saladin. By a small staircase, you reach the north tower, now in ruins.

From the Nabatean statue, a passageway leads southward past the barracks on your left and the kitchens on your right. From here, a doorway leads to a large oven. Continue through the passage until you reach the outside, on the eastern front of the castle. This houses several towers reflecting the expansion work carried out after the Frankish period. Below is the huge Frankish glacis, which plunges down the hillside... It is from here, it seems, that Renaud de Châtillon threw his prisoners into the void.

Going up to the upper courtyard, you can see the remains of a cistern and residential buildings. From the terrace at the northern end of the castle (above the Crusaders' Gallery), the view over the valley is uninterrupted. Dominating the courtyard, the ruins of a Romanesque church are easily visible. It was large enough to accommodate the entire garrison, and services were certainly held there. Next to it is the sacristy, which can be reached by climbing down the steps.

The southern part of the site retains its Mamluk keep, built by Sultan Baybars in 1264, and rebuilt since then. It defends the most exposed part of the fortress, the slope facing the Umm al-Thallaja hill, which slightly overhangs the castle, providing an ideal artillery position.

A ditch was dug by the Crusaders at the foot of the fortress to make any attack more difficult. It is now filled in by a road. One can also see a large reservoir that collects rainwater and supplies the fort with drinking water.

The Mamluk palace is accessed by a staircase leading from the cistern. In the centre, two vaulted rooms were used as reception halls. A room to the east of the hall, accessible from the courtyard, appears to have served as a mosque: a niche is located in the southern wall, facing Mecca. To the south of the Crusader church, you can also access two corridors: the one on the left leads past seven cells, while in the one on the right you can see a rosette carved in stone at the foot of the steps. Finally, a third passageway leads north to the old market place. If you continue north, you will reach the exit.

The lower courtyard was originally built by the Crusaders before being developed by the Mamluks in the 13th century. This is where the recently renovated archaeological museum is located. It is worth stopping there for a moment. It houses some major prehistoric remains, ceramics dating back to the Nabatean period, some coins from the Mamluk period, as well as a copy of the famous Mesha stele dating back to 850 BC. What remains of the original stele is on display in the Louvre Museum in Paris.

The western wall is pierced by the monumental Mamluk entrance - now condemned - whose arch rises to a height of nearly 12 meters. From the top of the ramparts, the view of the Wadi Karak is magnificent. The lower courtyard covers two large underground galleries, which were connected to the Mamluk gate and provided an escape route in case of attack.

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 Kérak
2024

THE FORTRESS OF SHOBAK

Monuments to visit
4.2/5
5 reviews

Even if the castle is a little dilapidated, it is worth a stop to admire the view offered on the heights of the hill, on the Wadi Araba and on the abandoned Bedouin villages at the foot of the citadel. The arid, wild and isolated atmosphere of this castle exposed to the desert winds gives the place a special character. Given the absence of explanatory signs on the site, don't expect to be able to identify the various ruined buildings. And the guide (who will chase you) will only give you expeditious details if there are other visitors at the same time. Nevertheless, if you want to learn more about the castle, the only solution is to follow him. You will discover the remains of a church (recognizable by its three naves), a small chapel, torture chambers, Mamluk mud roofs, drains, baths and a well with 365 steps. The well is 67 metres deep and was, of course, used to supply the fortress with water. It is undoubtedly thanks to its inexhaustible reserves that the Crusaders were able to withstand Saladin's assaults for a year and a half. According to the guardian, it still produces clear, drinkable water. Archaeologists have also managed to uncover inscriptions left by Saladin's troops on the stones of the building. You may want to bring a flashlight to explore the darker galleries and reveal an impressive collection of cannonballs carved into the stone.

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 Shobak
2024

BURNT PALACE (BURNT PALACE)

Palaces to visit
4.3/5
4 reviews

In this ancient and imposing 7th century private residence discovered in 1905, excavations revealed several portions of mosaics on the floor. The palace, located on the edge of an ancient Roman road, is believed to have burned down in the Byzantine period, possibly during the earthquake of 749, and was subsequently abandoned. Although almost no trace remains of the palace, with its vaulted halls and columns, the floors bear witness to the wealth of its owners. The mosaic in the hall depicts pastoral and hunting scenes and, at the entrance, a pair of sandals in a medallion. In the extension of the building are several rooms, all of which contain fragments of mosaic pavements that are more or less well preserved. The northern ones feature a statue of the goddess Tyche, the Greek goddess of good fortune, and a fragment of a creation representing the four seasons. In the room in the west wing, there is a succession of geometric designs forming an elegant floor carpet, with the centerpiece being a lion killing a bull.

Near the burnt-out palace, there are also the few remains of the Church of the Martyrs (Al-Khadir), dating from the 6th century. Its mosaic pavement was unfortunately heavily damaged during the height of the iconoclastic period led by the Umayyads and the following Muslim dynasties.

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 Madaba
2024

FORTIFIED TOWER

Monuments to visit
3.5/5
2 reviews

Less than 2 km north of the fortified city, an ancient tower intrigue specialists. It is 15 m high and has neither a door nor a staircase, but a few windows at the top level. Perhaps she was once inhabited by the first Christian monks who found the solitude necessary for their meditation. Today, you won't see more of the building, but we can go there to feel the special atmosphere that emerges from the place. The remains of a church are scattered not far away.

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 Umm Ar-Rasas
2024

HIPPOLYTE HALL

Ancient monuments

This mosaic that decorated the hall of a private villa of the sixth century is known since 1902. The owner of the house discovered it while digging foundations. But this discovery was partial and the entire fresco was not uncovered until 1982, when excavations were carried out in the entrance of the nearby Church of the Virgin Mary. It is unique in Jordan and refers to the tragedy of Phaedra. The fresco consists of three panels. The first panel depicts the hunt, of which Artemis was the Greek goddess. The four seasons are represented in the four corners of the panel. The second panel represents Phaedra and Hippolyta, symbolizing guilty passion. The third panel depicts the goddess Aphrodite, seated next to Adonis, wielding a spear while threatening a cherub. In the upper left-hand corner, three women, accompanied by sea monsters, symbolize three cities: Rome, Gregoria and Madaba.

The themes addressed and the characters represented are all taken from the tragedy of Euripides. Hippolytus is the son of Theseus and an Amazon. When the latter dies, Theseus marries Phaedra. Hippolyte devotes a worship to Artemis, and like her, chooses the way of chastity. Aphrodite tries to seduce Hippolyte, who despises her. To take revenge, she casts a spell on Phèdre, who will fall in love with her son-in-law. She makes advances to him, but he rejects her. In despair, she commits suicide, leaving a letter accusing Hippolyte of having tried to seduce her. Thésée banishes his son.

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 Madaba
2024

FORTRESS OF MACHERONTHA

Monuments to visit

The fortress of Macheronte was built under the orders of Alexander Jannaeus, Hasmonean king of Judea, around 100 BC, on a conical hill 700 meters above sea level. The vantage point was ideal for spotting possible threats from the east, and the rugged terrain made attacks difficult. This did not prevent general Gabinius, working on behalf of the Roman emperor Pompey, from destroying the citadel. It was rebuilt by Herod the Great around 30 A.D., who added a sumptuous palace within its walls. According to the Jewish historian Flavius Josephus, it was here that St. John the Baptist was taken after his arrest. He remained locked up in the fortress for two years, before being beheaded at Salome's request. John the Baptist had denounced the marriage of King Herod Antipas to his sister-in-law Herodias. According to Jewish law, a man cannot marry his brother's wife while the latter is still alive. Herod Antipas was captivated by the dancing talents of his daughter-in-law Salome (the famous dancer of the 7 veils), and promised to fulfill his most cherished wishes, provided she did the deed for him. Urged on by her revenge-hungry mother, she asked for John the Baptist's head.

During the Jewish Revolt (c. 66-70), whole waves of rebels fleeing the sacking of Jerusalem by the Romans took refuge in Macheronte. According to Pliny the Elder, the fortress was totally impregnable. In 72, however, it fell victim to a siege and was razed to the ground by the Romans, who left only the foundations.

Today, there's nothing impressive about the ruins themselves: a few walls, traces of the foundations and the remains of an ancient bathhouse can barely be seen to the east of the site. It was here that Jordan's oldest mosaic was found, now on display at the Madaba Museum. On the other hand, the site, the shape of the hill topped by the remains of the fortress are well worth a visit, as are the views and the atmosphere, as the place is inhabited by shepherds walking their flocks of goats and sheep. Access is via a path winding along the hillside. Take the 10-15 minute walk to the top, and you'll be rewarded with a superb panorama of the Dead Sea, stretching all the way to Jerusalem on a clear day. Along the way and in the surrounding area, you'll no doubt notice a number of caves: according to legend, it was in one of them that John the Baptist was beheaded, and his head carried to Salome on a platter.

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 Mukawir