The most beautiful natural sites to discover Cusco Region

The site of Pisaq is a good alternative for those who are put off by the oppressive mass of tourists flocking to Machu Picchu. If you go to the site early enough, you will have the chance to be almost alone and you may see hummingbirds gorging on cantuta in the thickets, in which case you should make the opening. Ideally, you should be able to visit the archaeological site in the afternoon against the flow of the rest of the tourists. Most of the tour agencies make several visits in the Sacred Valley and start with Pisaq.

Smaller, but no less incredible, these ruins offer an equally fantastic dive into Inca culture. From the village, the ascent allows to discover little by little the valley and the confluence of the Urubamba river and its tributary the Wilcamayu, by taking the path that leaves next to the church of the Plaza de la Constitucion (at the gatehouse, you show your boleto). You will discover steep terraces (still cultivated) that make you dizzy. These terraces were first dug to stabilize the mountain. Then they were cultivated. After having gone along them, we discover the ingenious system of canalisations, and before arriving at Pisaqa (where the food of the citadel city was stored), we notice on the right many holes in the mountain. It is in reality the cemetery (vertical) of the city. If you look carefully, you can see (on the right) a small building where a mummy was recently found! This young woman was on her knees, her hands clenched as if from scratching. It is assumed that she had been badly drugged, that she woke up and died of suffocation.

Nearby, a path leads to two high adobe houses with cane roofs. Higher still, the ceremonial centre of Intihuatana wraps its carved stone walls around the Temple of the Sun, enclosing the solar calendar. The end of the tunnel cut into the mountain can be seen, only to be passed in single file and broken in two; this improbable access made the temple unreachable. Beyond is a complex called Q'allaq'ana, with pools and fountains, and then the residential area of Q'anchisraq'ay, entirely fortified with a crenellated wall. If you have less time, a good idea is to take a taxi up to the village and walk back down. The magic of the site lies in its size and its harmony with the surrounding landscape.

The Salkantay trek has been proposed for several years as an alternative to the Camino Inca. Be careful, you will not arrive on the ruins of Machu Picchu at the end of the trek but in the village of Aguas Calientes-Machu Picchu Pueblo, like everybody else. On the other hand you will have lived an intense trek, in the heart of wild landscapes and as diverse as the geography of the country between snow-covered summits and undulating jungle.

Here is below the classic route:

Day 1: Cusco-Mollepata-Salkantay-Challway. Departure early in the morning. After 4 hours of travel, arrival at Mollepata. The trek begins in the heart of a green valley, in Soraypampa (3 700 m). You can already see in the distance the snowy peaks like the Humantay (5 217 m) and the Salkantay (6 264 m). This day is the most demanding as it is the day when we cross the highest point of the circuit, the 4,600 meters. The trek begins with a 2 hour climb surrounded by sublime landscapes. You will probably have the chance to see condors above your heads. Night under the tent next to the Andean terraces of Challway at 3 500 m. Depending on the agency, mules and porters can be provided.

Day 2. Challway-La Playa-Lucmabamba. You will enter a mountainous jungle area and descend more and more towards the heat. You will see the orchids, the dense vegetation and the families that live in the area. You will go along the Salkantay river and then Santa Teresa and Totora. The path is mainly downhill. The camp around La Playa is often very full. We recommend you to join the^2nd camp, Lucmabamba at 2 100 meters and more quiet.

Day 3 Lucmabamba-Llactapata-Hidroelectrica-Aguas Calientes. Here again, not all of us make this detour by Llactapata but it is the option that we recommend you. It will be necessary to go up but it is to borrow the rests of an Inca Trail through the plantations of coffee, bananas, avocados... The ascent requires 3 to 4 hours of walking until the highest point of the trail, Llactapata, at 2 700 m. Absolute reward: if the weather allows it, you will be able to enjoy a view on the ruins of Machu Picchu, certainly distant but the perspective by good weather is magic. It will remain you 2 hours of descent until Hydroelectrica. From here you can take the train for a 45 minutes trip through the jungle (tickets on the spot) or follow the rails (about 2 hours along the railroad). Overnight stay in one of the many hostals or book your own if you want more comfort.

Day 4. Visit of Machu Picchu. Then train and return to Cusco.

From this balcony, perched at an altitude of 4,000 m, one enjoys an exceptional view of the equatorial forest and it is said that the sunrise, which suddenly emerges from its vegetal bed, is the most beautiful on the continent. It is necessary to find a taxi which agrees to make the journey at 3 am - it is relatively easy. The mirador is more than an hour away. During the months of May to July, the sky is painted with fuchsia, purple and bluish colors before the sun rises. On the winter solstice, if the sky is clear, the phenomenon is even more spectacular

One hour from the village of Aguas Calientes in the direction of Hydroelectrica (or about 1 hour and 20 minutes from Hydroelectrica for those who come on foot) you will find Erwin's ecotourism project. This little piece of jungle with a waterfall at the end of the road is a nice place for those who don't have time to explore the selva peruana further. He has also set up a restaurant, a site to pitch a tent (with bathroom), a private bungalow and two rooms. Count on 1 to 2 hours of walking on the site. Many birds and hummingbirds.

Those who stay longer and like physical challenges will enjoy this 8 to 10 hour round trip hike. When the weather is good, a quite incredible show is offered to you: the 360° view on the mountains, the Veronica peak and this impeccable Inca door at the top. So there is not only the Door of the Sun of Machu Picchu, but also this one just as amazing. This confidential excursion is to be organized through an agency or a trusted driver.

We detail here the program of the trek day by day if you organize it through an agency.

Day 1: Cusco - Calca - Lares.Transportation usually leaves early, around 5:30 am. You have breakfast in Calca (2,940 meters), still in the Sacred Valley, and then the road starts to climb. You will then pass by Totora and Maucaupata. After about 4 hours of travel, you will arrive at Lares (3,200 meters) where you can enjoy the thermal baths (entrance fee S/ 15). After lunch, you will start your walk and after about 4 hours of walking, you will reach the camp of Wacahuasi at 3 600 meters.

Day 2: Wacahuasi - Ipsaycocha - Patacancha.After breakfast you will start the trek towards the second camp. You will climb to the highest point of this trek, 4,450 meters, and will be able to observe the peaks of Pitusiray, Sawasiray or Chicon. You will arrive at the lagoon of Ipsaycocha where you will have lunch at 4,100 meters. From this point on, the rest of the trek is a long descent. Then, in the afternoon, you will reach Patacancha. Here you will meet communities that will show you their hand woven costumes. Patacancha is a community open to rural tourism. They also have homestays and weaving workshops. The agencies sleep in tents, a little away from the village.

Day 3. Patacancha - Willoq - Ollantaytambo - Aguas Calientes.You will pass by the archaeological remains of Qochapata and Punamarca. You will walk on a rocky road with little traffic and will also take some remains of the Inca Trail. At the end of the morning you will reach Ollantaytambo and join the flow of tourists taking the train to Aguas Calientes. The trek is really 2 days/2 nights, the last day you will do very little walking. Lunch included and train ride.

Day 4. Machu Picchu. Visit the site and return by train to Ollantaytambo or Cusco.

Mountain Lodges of Peru has also set up its luxurious lodges here, which allow for a very comfortable trek. The 5 days-4 nights formula costs between 1990 and 2 650 US$, it includes the visit to the archeological site of Pisaq, the night in their lodge of Lamay, the trek of Lares with night in their lodge of Wacahuasi and finally 2 nights in very comfortable hotels of Ollantaytambo and Aguas Calientes, full board, visit to Machu Picchu and train of return A 7 days version allows to explore more the Sacred Valley and the villages and landscapes. Infos : mountainlodgesofperu.com

Located in the top of the village, the thermal baths seem very tempting after the four days spent on the "Camino del Inca" and the tepid shower of your hotel, but beware of the mosquitoes... One can find more rustic thermal baths with charm in Colca or in Santa Teresa for example for those who do the Inca Jungle Trek. These are rather modern, but once in the sulphurous waters between 38 and 46 °C, you can get used to the panorama, the vegetation very close. Very busy in the evening. Less during the day.

Waqrapukara with its two towers that form like two peaks that dominate the valley impresses. The agencies leave Cusco between 4:30 and 5:00 am to reach the community of Pitumarka. On the way, we stop for breakfast in Cusipata. We continue for a few more unpaved kilometers and then we start the hike (2.5 km, about 1.5 hours) with ascents and descents, lagoons, and finally a viewpoint with a view of the Waqrapukara. Visit of the site. These landscapes blown by the wind are part of the reward. Return to Cusco around 6pm.

This tour that leaves from Cusco also stops at the archaeological areas of Killarumiyoc and Tarawasi. Once in Chonta, if the weather is clear, we can see the Salkantay and Huamantay glaciers. After walking for about 1 hour, we reach a privileged observation site that overlooks the canyon from 1,500 meters. The walk is on flat ground, on the side of the mountain (be careful with vertigo). Departure from Cusco around 8:30 am, lunch included, return around 8 pm. Take or rent binoculars.

There is an access to Machu Picchu Pueblo through the jungle, an alternative route that many travelers take backpack to avoid taking the train, but beyond that this road that plunges from the peaks to the hilly jungle is an experience that combines climates and landscapes. Here are the steps to follow:

Take a colectivo from the Quillabamba terminal in Cusco in direction of Santa María (4h drive and S/ 30), the best is to book your seats the day before. Then, take another colectivo to Santa Teresa (2h of track and S/ 10) for a splendid but dangerous road. The road has become more popular and there are also direct minivans to S/40. You can sleep in Santa Teresa in a basic hotel or in the Ecoquechua Lodge (www.ecoquechua.com) and enjoy the splendid thermal baths of Colcamayo (more beautiful than those of Aguas Calientes). Note that you can also do this part on foot: Inca trail, sublime hike along the river and coffee plantations. Those who want to try it also have the possibility of facing the course of zipline of Cola de Mono (www.canopyperu.com).

The idea is then to walk 2 hours to the Hydro Electrica water station (truck or colectivo go there for S/ 5 extra, but you might as well walk, the path is nice). In order not to take the wrong path, take the stairs down to the river, then cross it with the elevator. Just in case, a wooden bridge allows you to cross the riverbut much further on the right.

Finally, remain 10 km along the rail road (in fact, one walks even on it, there is no path, then be vigilant to the possible passages of trains and attention to the fragile ankles) until Aguas Calientes. It is necessary to walk in the power station by borrowing the metallic bridge to join the railroad. Be careful: you should not follow the track below, but, when you approach the exit of the power station, take a small path which leaves on the right between the trees: you join another track, which is the good one. After approximately 2 hours of road, you will reach the Ruinas bridge which marks the entrance to Aguas Calientes .

This route is also sold by the agencies under the name of Jungle Trail in formula 4 days-3 nights. Descent by mountain bike and rafting. Night in Santa María. Hiking. Night in Santa Teresa. Zipline and walking. Night in Aguas Calientes. Visit to Machu Picchu. Return train to Ollantaytambo.