Things to see and do Jinja To Mount Elgon

On the right bank of the Nile, not far from the defunct Ripon Falls, the symbolic site of the river's alleged source has become a tourist hub teeming with souvenir vendors. There are a number of bars-restaurants, the bust of Gandhi and, next to him, the rafters and employees of a company offering nautical escapades on the river, a plaque marking the beginning of the Nile's race to the Mediterranean and a sign giving some information about the river, its source (at Jinja, of course!), Speke or the Ripon falls...

The Mabira Forest Ecotourism Centre and Griffin Falls Camp are the two launching pads for the wilderness excursions. Trails and tracks through the forest can be surveyed without the assistance of a guide (you will have to pay the reserve entrance fee of 20,000 Ush/adult). From Najjembe, three circuits (blue, yellow and red) of three to eight kilometers long allow a pleasant dive into the greenery. From Griffin Falls Camp, you can stretch your legs by walking to the nearby and picturesque waterfall of the same name (Griffin Falls). The presence of a guide is nevertheless highly recommended, especially for birdwatching. Indeed, during a bird watching tour your guide will be of a precious help to you to flush out the most furtive birds and identify the birds' songs. With the help of a guide, you will also be able to track, as in the Bugoma forest, the mangabey of Uganda. Until 2007, the Ugandan mangabey(Lophocebus ugandae) was related to the white-cheeked mangabey, which has a wider range, but has since been recognised as a species in its own right. This endemic primate, almost exclusively granitic and fruit-eating, is distinguished from its white-cheeked counterpart by its smaller size and from the other monkeys in the reserve by its darker coat. Tracking lasts between one and four hours. It is preferable to do it in the morning.

Much appreciated, in their time, by the Kabaka Mwanga and Mutesa II, this "green hole where a river sings" conceals a waterfall not devoid of beauty. In this place full of legends, where - in order to reconcile the spirits - sacrificial and propitiatory ceremonies still take place today (your cicerone will provide you with many details on this subject), the Ssezibwa falls. Although its flow varies according to the seasons, the 18 m high jump can be admired all year round. Rock climbers wishing to discover the top of the waterfall will not forget to put on sturdy boots as the stone is particularly slippery during and after the showers. In Céans, the Ssezibwa, a watercourse of about 150 km ending its course in Lake Kyoga, is surrounded by greenery(prunus africana, Gabonese tulip tree...), which is hardly to displease the monkeys, birds and butterflies of the area! There is no need to hire a guide if your only objective is to saddle up with someone better or to picnic on the grass. However, hiring a mahout (20,000 Ush plus entrance fees) can be advantageous for anyone wishing to learn more about the local history, customs, wildlife and flora. Finally, it is possible to camp in situ (30,000 Ush/person, entrance fee included): grassy ground overlooking the waterfall, clean sanitary facilities, shelters and meal preparation (to order) are the services and equipment of Ssezibwa Falls Resort.

Among the activities offered within the reserve, there are the game drive (at 7am and 4pm, US$20), bird watching (US$30) and the nature walk (from one to four hours, US$30). The above-mentioned prices include the service of a guide, but do not include the entrance fees to the reserve (for 24 hours: US$ 35/adult and US$ 5/child from 5 to 15 years old). The same goes for the bush camping which consists in pitching a tent in the middle of the bush (20 000 Ush to which you have to add 20 US$ for the ranger; entrance fees and food costs not included) to hear the song of the red-cheeked blue cordon and the snapping of the wild animals... Other enjoyable activities include cave visits, a three-day trek to Mount Kadam and trophy hunting (excluding big cats). If you are interested in hunting, you can make an appointment with James (+256 777 294 754) or contact Karimojong Overland Safaris (www.ugandaprohunts.com). Please note that the UWA seems to be putting a stop to hunting safaris at the moment, so you should check before you take your gun on board.... For further information on Pian Upe, please contact the Uganda Wildlife Authority office in Mbale (+256 454 433 170 or +256 454 435 035). The dry season is undoubtedly the best time to travel through the reserve: the shorter grasslands allow better observation of wildlife; in the same vein, UWA teams, jointly or not with Karamojong herders, practice pastoral burning or "controlled fire" in order to diversify and renew resources (grasses and shrubs): this also contributes to increased visibility. Three additional pieces of information to finish: for the time being, unlike the national parks, it is forbidden to explore the park's trails independently in your own vehicle. Also, remember that Pian Upe is home to leopards, in addition to the monkeys that roam the main road and the pythons that meander along the trails. Leopards sometimes roam around the villages and the UWA camp, so avoid hiking alone in the bush and do not leave the camp after dark unless you have a vehicle. Finally, although large-scale poaching has ceased in the wildlife reserve, the meat you might eat in the communities bordering the protected area has sometimes been poached.

Despite its extraordinary hiking opportunities, Mount Elgon remains relatively uncrowded, even though the number of climbs is steadily increasing. It is a good alternative to the Rwenzori massif or Mount Kilimanjaro. The ascent is not very technical and remains quite affordable. If it is possible (which is generally the case), you should know that while it is easier and cheaper, it can be as rewarding as the ascent of the above-mentioned mountains. Treks can be done all year round, even if the dry season is more favourable (June-August and December-February). Excursions last from two to six days with a daily walking time of between three and eleven hours; they require good physical condition but no special skills or specific equipment. Please note, however, that problems of acclimatization to altitude may occur on the last portion of the ascent. Finally, be aware that the nights are icy on the heights of Mount Elgon, so bring something to keep you warm (fleece, gloves, sleeping bag...). Depending on the itinerary you choose (Sasa Trail, Sipi Trail, Piswa Trail, or even, for the more discerning sportsmen, the new Bushiyi Trail), you will find on your way, punctuated with magnificent views, caves, gorges and waterfalls. Expeditions are organized at the UWA office in Mbale at the rate of US$ 75 per day, including the entrance to the park (US$ 35) and the services of a guide, plus a camping fee (Ush 20,000) and possibly the assistance of a porter (Ush 40,000 per day; maximum load carried: eighteen kilograms) and a cook (Ush 30,000 per day), or US$ 80-100 per person per day, not including the purchase of food. If you plan to attack the Wagagai by the Bushiyi Trail, which starts in the village of the same name (18 km east of Mbale, as the crow flies...), you will have to pay, for the whole trek (usually two days), 150 US$ (not including camping fees and, potentially, those of the porter and/or the cook). There are many options: the possibility to combine two trails (for example the Sasa and Piswa trails in order to make a Budadiri-Kapkwata crossing and not a round trip on the same trail), to do a cross-border trek (developed by UWA and the Kenya Wildlife Service), to discover the picturesque gorge that is part of the Suam Trail (departure from the locality of Suam), etc.

If the 1,650 m of positive elevation gain on the first day of the Sasa Trail and the 5 to 6 days of walking required to complete the Piswa and Sipi trails do not tell you anything worthwhile, the nature walks organised by UWA could get your favour. For example, from Budadiri, you can walk to the Mudange Cliffs, which gush out of the forest where primates and birds abound, or to Drigana Falls. In Kapkwai, walks of 3 to 11 km allow you to discover bamboos, caves, waterfalls and remarkable trees without (too) tiring!