A rigorous and traditional Muslim society
The Swahili people of Zanzibar are all religious believers, some out of conviction, others because of the societal weight of good morals. On Fridays especially, the five daily prayers are practiced by all, and many stores and offices close at prayer time. Ramadan is strictly observed, and we advise you to avoid this period, as it greatly disrupts life in Stone Town and the opening hours of stores. Eid al-Fitr at the end of Ramadan and Eid al-Kebir are major festivities which bring together on the beach and in the gardens of Forodhani, in Stone Town, throngs of families in their best clothes, with shimmering colorful fabrics. As a result, adults (especially men) rarely drink alcohol. It's forbidden and frowned upon, especially in Pemba where the sale of alcohol is strictly reserved for hotels, which greatly limits road accidents, unlike mainland Tanzania, which records record rates of fatal accidents linked to drink-driving. Young girls wear the veil as early as possible, from the age of 5 or 6 for the most part. You'll see them walking along the roads to school, veiled in their school uniforms. Compulsory marriage, dowry for the family, widespread polygamy and very large families (five children per woman on average) are the norm. Young girls must remain virgins until marriage. Women's kangas (traditional loincloths) and veils are very colorful, bright and colorful. It's de rigueur not to go out in the villages in shorts or a short skirt, let alone a bikini. On the beach, the locals will not hold it against you and tend to make fun of you (it's fair game), but in the heart of the villages and the town of Stone Town, they take a dim view of over-exhibitionist holidaymakers.
The Parsi Zoroastrian religion
This ancient religion owes its name to its prophet, Zarathustra, also known as Zoroaster. The religion was brought to India by the Persians (today's Iranians) in the 8th century, when they were invaded and persecuted, as they were then able to practice their Zoroastrian cult with regal protections in India without constraint. As the Persians had already conquered Zanzibar in the 10th century, this religion already existed there. Some of the Parsi Indians who later emigrated to the archipelago also imported their Zoroastrian cult. A temple existed in Stone Town, and a well-known figure was recorded in the registers: Freddy Mercury! The sacred book of the Zoroastrians is theAvesta, written in an archaic language.
The Swahili initiation ritual Unyago
Swahili animist tribal rituals still survive on the island, despite the practice of rigorous Islam. Practices inherited from a long history of mixed culture were popularized on Zanzibar in the 19th century, and syncretistically blended with the island's Islamic culture. An initiation ceremony for young women entering puberty or engaged before marriage is called Unyago. Set to percussive Ngoma rhythms, this ceremony, which lasts several days, teaches the young girl the art of make-up, intimacy, sexual hygiene and cooking. Above all, she learns, through dance and song (with very explicit movements and words), to give sexual pleasure to her future husband. Although this initiation is still practised today, Ungayo has also been brought to light by female Taarab singers, including the famous late singer Bi Kidude.
The Mwaka Kogwa ritual of Makunduchi
It's in the south of the island, in the village at the southeastern tip of Makunduchi, that this ceremony celebrating the Persian New Year is at its most important. It stems from the Zoroastrian religion inherited from the Shirazian Persians who arrived on the island in the 10th century, one of the oldest and most mysterious of beliefs, now virtually extinct on this continent. Here, it's mixed with Bantu syncretism, with belief in good and evil spirits and ancestor worship. An army of men enters the village singing war hymns to rhythmic music, armed with... a banana stalk! The big fight between the men is therefore quite soft, as in the past they used to fight with sticks. It pits the northern team against the southern, then quickly moves on to duels. The song is an incantation to the spirits, a long list of wishes to be "cleansed" for the New Year. For this festival, whose name means "washed year", is a veritable catharsis of what was experienced last year, to start afresh and purify one's sins. During the day, bulls are sacrificed to protect the town and ward off evil spirits for the year, who might come to cast spells. A hut is set on fire to prevent the spirits from taking refuge there. During the fight in the middle of the fields, the women in their best kangas dance and mock the men in song, which is not allowed on any other day of the year! Other men's fights take place behind closed doors, this time against the spirits. On this day, anything goes. During the day, the men wear the most unlikely costumes: soccer shirts, coats, Spiderman masks, wigs and women's clothes... The party is wild, in the spirit of purification. Private spirit-fighting rituals take place behind closed doors in public places. At night, during the Mwaka Kogwa, palm wine flows freely in discotheques, and marriages are temporarily dissolved. Social codes are broken, and the party is a collective release! Nevertheless, there is a syncretism with Islam: on this day, the inhabitants of Makudunchi go to the mosque and young pupils to the madrassa, the Koranic school, followed by a ritual of purification with water until the afternoon. Tourists are welcome to join in the festivities during the day, and it's been said that a good Mwaka Kogwa doesn't happen without guests!
