On the trail of the smugglers
From Portbou to Blanes, the "chemins de ronde" are coastal paths that run along the entire steep Costa Brava coastline. Although their existence is thought to date back to the earliest times, when they served as a means of communication between the towns, beaches and coves of this coastline, it was in the 19th and 20th centuries that they became extremely popular. They were used by smugglers and the guards who guarded the coastline. Among the products that circulated the most were blond tobacco, coffee, sugar, pepper, chocolate and penicillin, not to mention jewelry and silk clothing. And it was in the coastal area between Palamós and Begur that the greatest exchanges of goods took place and the best hiding places were found, with emblematic spots such as the Port d'Esclanyà cove, the Sa Perica chalet in Tamariu, the Frares cove at the foot of the Cap de Sant Sebastià cliff or the Golfet beach. Today, this traffic no longer exists and these paths have been converted into hiking trails. Over 250 kilometers long, they skirt the coves of the Costa Brava and pass through some of the most emblematic spots on the Girona coast. Of course, you'll come across the charming little villages that dot this coastline: Cadaqués, Begur, Calella de Palafrugell or Tossa de Mar, but you'll also discover medieval gems such as Pals, Peratallada or Peralada, just a few kilometers from the coast. All the while, you'll appreciate the variety of natural spaces, from the sea to the mountains, from the more humid forests to the lush vegetation of the Mediterranean coastline.
A circuit in 10 steps
In total, these trails can be covered in ten stages, averaging between five and nine hours for around twenty kilometers. Each of these is divided into sections of 3 to 4 kilometers, depending on the stage, each lasting 1 to 2 hours. Beware: while some parts of these trails may resemble digestive walks, others are considerably more strenuous. Remember to bring good shoes, and get maps from tourist offices to help you identify the signposting codes. If you opt for the southern part of the route, from Blanes to Pals, you'll be right on the Costa Brava as it was first named in 1908 by the journalist Ferran Agulló, in view of the steep coastal coves seen from the Sant Elm hermitage in Sant Feliu de Guíxols. Here, the mountain ranges of Ardenya, Gavarres and Begur have given the landscape its silhouette, and to reach the infinite number of small pebbled or sandy coves, paths and tracks lead through pine forests and holm and cork oak groves. In the northern part, from the French border to the community of Torroella de Montgrí, the landscape is wilder, recording the folds of the Pyrenees. But it's also here that you can land on the Bay of Roses, just as the Greeks and Romans did when they conquered the Iberian Peninsula. Of course, you can also follow this route from France or from the coast of Barcelona, and here are just a few examples of what you can expect to discover along the way. The first section, from Blanes to Tossa de Mar, takes between 6 and 8 hours and is the most urbanized part of the route, but has the advantage of being well connected to Girona and Barcelona airports. You'll also have the opportunity to discover the botanical gardens of Blanes, such as Marimurta, created by naturalist Karl Faust in 1921, or Pinya de Rosa (7,000 species from all over the world). The second stage takes you to San Feliu de Guíxols, a town surrounded by deep-pink cliffs, which has hosted the oldest music, theater and dance festival in Catalonia since 1958. A succession of sandy coves and cliffs with pine forests will then take you to Palamós, the main commercial port in the province of Girona, where you'll want to try the local specialty, pink shrimp.
The essence of the Costa Brava
The stage leading on to Begur surely concentrates the greatest essence of the central and southern Costa Brava, as its well-preserved landscapes most closely resemble the wild Mediterranean. You'll pass through the idyllic little enclaves of Calella de Palafrugell, Llafranc and Tamariu, and enjoy fine views from the Mirador de Sant Sebastia lighthouse, one of the most powerful in Spain. A sight to behold day and night, especially when the full moon lights up the bay. To get from Begur to l'Estartit, you can choose between the coastal route, via the Platja de Pals, or the slightly longer inland route to Pals and its historic part, Pedró, one of Catalonia's most important artistic-historical ensembles, with beautiful views over the region's rice fields. Then comes the stage to l'Escala Empúries, south of the Bay of Roses, where you can visit the archaeological museum housing two Greek sites, and taste the local specialty, anchovies. Almost completely flat, the next stage is ideal for birdwatchers, as it passes through the Aiguamolls de l'Empordà nature park, with around ten observation points. The Roses Cadaqués route is marked by a strong contrast between large urbanizations and majestic cliffs, culminating in the light and distinctive silhouette of Cadaqués. The ninth stage, towards Port de Selva, takes us to Cap de Creus, a breathtakingly wild landscape, so much so that it was the setting for Kevin Billington's 1971 film The Light at the End of the World, not without a visit to the Salvador Dalí house in Portlligat. At the end of the trip, when you arrive in Portbou, you'll also have crossed the Balmeta coast, a half-moon full of coves and bays into which the Pyrenees emerge. Further information at www.camideronda.com
