Products from here
Don't leave Poitou without stocking your basket with goodies, starting with a specimen of the Périgord black truffle, widely cultivated in Deux-Sèvres since the Phylloxera crisis of the 19th century. You can find your Précieuse at the truffle markets in La Mothe-Saint-Héray and Availles, or throughout the Vienne region from mid-December to mid-February (truffe-vienne.fr). If you're passing through Neuville, be sure to stop off at the eponymous oil mill. Luxurious condiments, from traditional virgin walnut and hazelnut oils to homemade creations such as pistachio oil and passion fruit pulp vinegar, are sure to please. Another local souvenir is a marsh hare pâté, a surprisingly exquisite delicacy. Or think of the chèvre-boîte, a melting cheese inspired by Camembert, created in Bougon in 1907 precisely for the purpose of traveling.
Poitou has a generous sweet heritage. Montmorillon promises a marvel of almond powder cookie, its famous macaron. Visit "chez Rannou", aka the biscuitier Rannou-Métivier, the benchmark for 150 years: macaroons, in traditional and flavored versions (pistachio, rose, etc.), are presented by the dozen on baking paper. The macaroné is no more and no less than a large-format variant. In Niort, grab the local M&M's, the addictive chocolate mojette with a nougatine heart: you'll be caught red-handed! If you don't like the crushed stuff, go for the region's other pride and joy: the tourteau-fromagé. Numerous Deux-Sévriens villages vie for the paternity of this fresh goat's cheese pastry, with its curious black crust and unusual taste. Finally, you can capture the wild angelica in a variety of forms: candied, to embellish your desserts, in jam or liqueur.
Handcrafted rarities
There's no such thing as a Poitou school, but a constellation of highly localized artisanal basins and just as many artisanal creators. Japanese-born ceramist Yuko Karamatsu lives and works in Poitiers, and you'll fall under the spell of the exquisite refinement of her creations - cups, bowls, plates, fèves des Rois exhibited at the Maison du tourisme et du terroir (@nerikomi.coupelle). Still in Poitiers, head down the Grand-Rue to no. 137, where you'll find François frères, a craftsman-creator of umbrellas since 1882 (mass-produced or made-to-measure). Lovers of the sacred arts should continue on to the Abbey of Saint-Martin de Ligugé, famous for its enamels. Since the immediate post-war period, Benedictine monks have been working in a variety of techniques, offering reproductions of stained glass windows, portraits of the Virgin Mary in gold grisaille and enamels on copper (religious and secular subjects). The abbey's scofa, on sale in the store, is as famous as it is renowned. As you prepare to head for the Deux-Sèvres region, stop off at the Tanneurs de Boivre-la-Vallée (Lavausseau), where you'll find the superb goatskin, cowhide or sheepskin you're looking for. A wealth of reasonably-priced skins, leathers and wools will make your head spin: baby booties, belts, jackets, purses, cocooning slippers...
Leather work you'll find in Deux-Sèvres, particularly in Gâtine. You'll need to visit Bressuire and the boutique-atelier Peaux d'Anne, creator of colorful bags, clutches and accessories (where you can book a leatherwork course and give away the belt you've learned to make). In Azay-le-Brûlé, you'll meet the original Estelle Bonnaud, metal artist and France's only weathervane maker (custom-made weathervanes, candleholders, signs and other metal works). In Niort, which has been awarded the Ville et Métiers d'art label, the 36 quai des Arts gallery is well worth a visit. It showcases the department's most gifted artists and craftsmen: lampshades, stone carving, felt-making, jewelry...
Cosmetics
The donkey, emblem of Poitou? It's no surprise to come across so many handmade soaps, solid shampoos and other cosmetics made with local donkey milk, well-known for its moisturizing and softening properties. During your stay in the Poitevin marshes, kill two birds with one stone by visiting the Du Coq à l'âne ecopark (Saint-George-de-Rex): its owners also run the Cornet soap factory, which creates sweets made with fresh, raw milk from their asinine farm.
Since the 16th century, La Roche-Posay, an attractive medieval town, has been the (European) capital of thermal dermatology. In 1975, the famous eponymous dermatological cosmetics brand was created here, and still has a production site. Although not open to the public, you can stock up on products and advice (beauty, well-being and treatment of skin conditions) at the superb Spa Source boutique.
Your Poitou Beauty Tour doesn't end until you've visited the eco-friendly production site of the Body Nature laboratory, Odyssée Nature (where fascinating workshops are held all year round), where you can shop for organic and ecological products (beauty, well-being, home care).
Memories of your visits
Is the gift store kitschy? Nothing could be further from the truth! Visit the countless shops at Futuroscope (86), brimming with high-tech themed souvenirs. At Château d'Oiron, where the incredible contemporary art exhibition Curios & Mirabilia reigns, you can treat yourself to a host of design objects and stylish curiosities: fine books, tableware, art kits, scents created for the site by olfactory artist Julie C. Fortier... Don't leave the Musée Sainte-Croix (Poitiers) without acquiring its best-seller - every self-respecting Pictavian owns one somewhere - a reproduction of François Nautré's Le Siège de Poitiers en 1569. Last but not least, the gorilla plush toy from Vallée des Singes (Romagne) will always delight children...
