Things to see and do Himalaya

From this star-shaped crossroads, follow the traditional route taken by the merchants, which extends diagonally. The bazaar leads to the small square of Kel Tol, but just before it, on the left, a courtyard guarded by two griffins opens up. The sanctuary hidden there is dedicated to Seto Machendranath, the white form of the protector of the valley. Not far away, the copper and tinware district extends nearby, leading to the Asan Tole square, in the heart of the old town, where the traditional market is held.

The temple dedicated to Annapurna, goddess of grain and fertility (another form of Lakshmi, goddess of wealth), dominates the square. One street continues straight on towards Kantipath and the National Theatre, which is at the corner, while another artery on the right joins Rani Pokhari and Kantipath Avenue, from where it is possible to find a rickshaw or a taxi to reach his hotel.

From Asan, stroll through the narrow streets leading to the old northern districts of Kathmandu. A detour of a hundred meters, behind the Annapurna temple, will lead you to the Mahabouddha temple, where a very large painted statue of Buddha is strangely locked in an anonymous building. Only a white stūpa signals its existence. Back in Asan, turn left through the fruit and vegetable market. Shortly after, the street narrows and, on the left, an ordinary door opens onto the courtyard of Haku Bahal. There stands a window and a balcony topped by an ancient torana, an arc of a circle loaded with sea monsters.

Indra Chowk Square is dedicated to the god of heaven and rain. Upstairs, the shrine dedicated to Akash Bhairav, another form of Shiva, blue in colour, is forbidden to non-Hindus. On the steps of another temple on the other side of the square, blankets, cotton carpets and shawls are spread out and hung. All around, most of the shops are run by Muslims, descendants of the Kashmiris who settled in the valley three centuries ago. In the background, a small bead market invites to make interlaced necklaces.

Very popular with Indian tourists, this residence opens some of the pieces of the private residence of the former Prime Minister of India. You will see photographs and several personal objects that belonged to the mistress of the sites. In the garden, a glass window surrounds the very place where Indira Gandhi was murdered by her bodyguard in 1984.

As his name does not indicate, Indira Gandhi had no relationship with the Mahatma. She was the daughter of Jaharwal Nehru. His assassination follows the operation Blue Star launched on 30 June 1984 by Indira Gandhi inside the Sikh temple of Amritsar. At that time, some members of the Sikh community sought independence and had fled to the temple. The operation was a carnage despite the sanctity of the temple, and it was badly perceived by many Indians and Sikhs in particular. On October 30 of the same year, Indira Gandhi said in a speech, «If I have to die in the service of the nation, I will do so with pride». She was murdered the following day by her two Sikh bodyguards who criblèrent her body of 30 bullets.

Thahity's square is marked in its center by a large white stūpa decorated with prayer banners. In the street that goes from Thahity to Indra Chowk, on the right, a square courtyard opens, housing the stūpa of Katesimbhu, a contraction of Kathmandu-Swayambu. The licchavi sculptures that surround it bear witness to its antiquity. This stūpa offers a substitute for those who cannot make the pilgrimage to the hill every morning. Next to the stupa, a school dedicated to thangkas, Healing Mandala Thangka Painting School, will be happy to introduce you to this art.

Located in the western centre of the country, the Annapurna reserve is the country's most visited trekking area. Altitude ranges between 790 and 8 000 m. Cascades, mountains and crossing traditional villages. 1 200 plants including 40 orchids and 9 species of rhododendron, the national flower. The park hosts a hundred mammals, including the very rare snow panther.

A landmark in the country's history, Durbar Square is a Unesco World Heritage Site, like the valley's other "royal squares" in Patan and Bakhtapur. Since its independence under the Malla kings, Kathmandu's kings were crowned here. Within Durbar Square lies the royal complex of Hanuman Dhoka, with its dozen courtyards, palaces and temples. Although the buildings date back to the ^17th and ^18th centuries, many were renovated after the 1934 earthquake and especially after the 2015 earthquake, which caused considerable damage. The Maju Teval and Trailokya Mohan Narayan temples were badly damaged, while the Kasthamandap temple was totally destroyed and rebuilt in 2021. A lively atmosphere reigns in these squares, where locals come to sit and chat at all hours of the day. Stepped brick and stone temples decorated with finely sculpted statues and dedicated in particular to the gods Shiva, Vishnu, Ganesh, Bhairab, but also to the goddesses Taleju and Parvati. Children play, tourists stroll among the strolling souvenir vendors, while students and workers hurry through the hustle and bustle. Motorcycles, bicycles and rickshaws thread their way through this tangle of temples.

Orientation. Entering from the traffic circle where the statue of Jiddha is enthroned, you discover a vast, open rectangular square, bordered by the Nau-talle palace or Basantapur tower on the right, flanked by a neoclassical palace by Gaddi Baithak. At its center, craft stalls display their wares right on the cobblestones, while cafés with roof terraces blossom all around to enjoy the view from the heights. This is where hippies used to gather in the 1970s. At the far end of the square is the Kumari Ghar, the palace of the living goddess Kumari. The Kasthamandap was built as an extension to the Kumari Ghar, but was totally destroyed in 2015. In front of the Kumari Ghar, the imposing statue of Garouda. This giant half-man, half-bird idol kneels in homage to Vishnu, whose triple-roofed Trailokya Mohan Narayan temple lends its base to the merchants' stalls. Just around the corner on a shopping street leading off from this point, don't miss a small golden temple dedicated to Maru Ganesh. A bronze rat, or rather shrew, is the deity's mount. This shrine is the object of great fervor, with everyone striding around it, putting their finger in a hole in the side, ringing the bell and then receiving the priest's tika. From here, a narrow street punctuated by multitudes of stepped temples and stalls leads to the Hanuman Dhoka complex.

Basantapur Durbar or Nau-tallé Durbar. Literally the 9-storey palace, this is the largest structure in Durbar Square. A fine example of Nepalese architecture, the pagoda is made of wood and brick, and opens onto windows with remarkably fine carvings on the façade. This palace was built by King Prithvi Narayan Shah in the ^18th century after the conquest of the valley. Basantapur Square, the part of Durbar Square where stalls and souvenir stores are located today, was once home to the royal elephants.

Gaddi Baithak. Its white neoclassical style and colonnaded facade stand in stark contrast to the traditional Newar architecture of Durbar Square. Built during the Rana reign of Prime Minister Chandra Shumsher in 1908 to welcome foreign statesmen, ambassadors and official celebrations, it too was badly damaged by the 2015 earthquake and completely renovated, thanks in part to a $7 million American fund.

Kumari Ghar. "Kumari" literally means "virgin" in Sanskrit. In this palace lives a young girl, the living reincarnation of the Hindu warrior goddess Taleju. Nepal has several Kumaris, but Royal Kumari is the most famous. Admire the woodwork of this palace built in 1757 by King Jaya Prakash Malla in a fit of atonement, repentant for having offended the Kumari of the time. Enter the courtyard between 9 and 11 a.m. and between 4 and 6 p.m., hold your breath and drop your phone - photos and videos of the goddess are strictly forbidden - for the solemn greeting of the goddess. Several times a day, morning and afternoon, she presents a face with a neutral expression and daily make-up to the crowds, who are allowed to enter in small groups. It's a ceremony that both impresses and begs the question: what kind of life has this little girl got in mind? She is elected in a very special ceremony from early childhood. Little girls aged 6 or 7 from Newar goldsmith castes are locked in a dark room with severed and bloody buffalo heads, while dancers whirl around wearing demon masks. The Kumari, Taleju's next reincarnation, is the fearless one. From the moment she enters the palace, her feet can no longer touch the ground, and she lives reclusively within these walls, surrounded by people devoted to her education and rank. She only comes out once a year for the Indra Jatra ceremony, riding in a golden chariot. Her life as a goddess ends when she menstruates for the first time, or if she loses blood through injury. She then becomes mortal again in the eyes of the religion and re-enters society. Another little girl is then chosen. A sacrificed childhood, some would say, a necessity of tradition in modernity, others would say. The men of the village are generally afraid to marry a former Kumari, but often these young girls, educated during their confinement, go on to study and open up to other destinies than that of their caste and village.

Trailokya Mohan Narayan temple or Vishnu temple. "Trailokya Mohan" means "Vishnu of the Three Worlds". This three-storey pagoda-style Hindu temple is the setting for dance performances representing the ten incarnations of Vishnu during the Indra Jatra festival. It was built in 1679 by King Parthivendra Malla to honor his late brother, Nripendra Malla. It too was severely damaged by the 2015 earthquake, but has since been restored. It's from this temple that the lively, authentic life of Kathmandu's old city center begins, all the way to the exit of the Hanuman Dhoka complex. Visitors and locals alike are happy to sit on the temple steps to watch the bustle of the square, with the votive statue of Garuda facing its western side.

Statue of Garouda. This idolized mythical creature, half-man half-bird, is important in Nepalese beliefs, as well as in India and Indonesia. This bronze statue depicts Garouda crouching, one knee on the ground and hands clasped. With his wings behind his back, he faces the temple of Vishnu, also known as Trailokya Mohan Narayan.

Kasthamandap. Literally "the wood-covered shelter", this is a three-storey Hindu temple in the form of a pagoda, with a tomb dedicated to Gorakshanath. Unfortunately, it was completely destroyed by the 2015 earthquake. Thanks to national and international funding totalling 198 million rupees, it was able to be rebuilt to exact specifications between 2018 and 2021. Over 8.3 million rupees worth of renovation work was carried out thanks to the civic participation of volunteers.

Kaal Bhairav idol. This frightening giant idol of a single stone placed is a manifestation of Shiva the Black, a very colorful but terrifying avatar, wearing the decapitated head of Shani, an ornamental snake, a tiger skin and a ritual apron made of human bones and straddling a corpse. Found by King Pratap Malla in the ^17th century in a rice field, it dates back to the ^6th century and has been placed at the center of the complex. Thieves and liars were once dragged before this idol to spontaneously confess their crimes and avoid divine wrath, synonymous with sudden and certain death. The inhabitants continue to venerate this great and fierce incarnation of Shiva.

One of the finest examples of conservation. Chitwan National Park is, therefore, becoming a popular location. 43 species of mammals were identified in the park, including rhino, tiger… 540 species of birds.

The Hanuman Dhoka royal complex extends over 5 hectares, but is nested within Durbar Square. This complex of palaces, temples and courtyards has several wings, but was badly damaged by the 2015 earthquake. It's not the first time: before the 1934 earthquake, the palace had 35 courtyards. The eastern wing dates back to the ^16th century, and is the oldest part enlarged by King Mahendra Malla (1560-1574). He commissioned the construction of Hanuman Dhoka's oldest temples in Newari style: the Jagannath temples, Kotilingeshwara Mahadev (a stone temple to Lord Shiva), Mahendreswara temple and the magnificent Taleju temple. In the ^18th century, King Prithvi Narayan Shah added four watchtowers (Lowan Chowk. The royal family lived here until 1886, when they moved to the Narayanhiti Palace.

Nasal Chowk courtyard and Panch Mukhi Hanuman temple. Passing through the Golden Gate, you enter a large rectangular courtyard, the most imposing of the ten courtyards that make up the Hanuman Dhoka complex. It was in this courtyard that King Birendra was crowned in 1975. Nasal (meaning "to dance" in Bhasha) refers to the image of Shiva dancing, placed on the northeast side of the square in a whitewashed chamber where dancing ceremonies took place during the Malla period, when it was built. As soon as you enter, on the left, don't miss the representation of Narasimha, reincarnation of Vishnu, half-man, half-lion, a kind of griffin devouring the demon Hiranyakashipu. The buildings surrounding the courtyard date from the Rana period. Linger over the Sisha Baithak, the audience hall of the Malla kings. The open veranda houses the royal throne and portraits of the Shah kings.

The statue of the Hindu god who gave his name to the complex is easily recognizable from the entrance: the monkey god sculpted in 1768 with one face painted red is adorned with a red cape and umbrella. The general of the monkey army in the Râmâyana epic saved Princess Sita from the clutches of the demon-king of Ceylon. Since then, he has become the symbol of marital fidelity, and every new couple comes to him with an offering of sindur, a red dust mixed with mustard oil, a vermilion paste that now disfigures him. The Panch Mukhi Hanuman temple (the five-faced monkey god) stands in the northeast corner of Nasal Chok. Its unique design of five circular roofs is typical of Nepal and dates back to the late Malla or early Sha dynasty period in the ^19th century. It withstood the 2015 earthquake and has since been restored. The temple priest is the only person who can enter this sanctuary.

Mul Chowk courtyard and Taleju temple. This courtyard is dedicated to Taleju Bhawani. It is reserved for religious rites and Hinduism (so you won't be able to enter). In the center, the Taleju temple is guarded by the goddesses of the Ganges and Yamuna rivers. It's one of the most impressive in Hanuman Dhoka. This tall pagoda houses the mysterious divinity, the royal goddess of the Malla kings. Hindus are admitted here once a year on the festival of Dasain, when sacrifices are performed.

Mohan Chowk. This is the most spectacular courtyard. Built by King Pratap Malla in 1649, it represents the royal private quarters. Malla kings had to be born here in order to legitimately wear the crown, and were the only ones allowed to enter. Note the impressive golden spout fountain, richly carved with birds and animals, known as the Sun Dhara. Malla kings used to perform their daily ablutions here, using fresh water from the Budhanilkantha hills. The goddess in charge of bringing the Ganges to Earth, Bhagiratha, is also depicted, kissing her knees and contemplating the surface of the baths.

Sundari Chowk, Jagannath temple. The Jagannath temple is the oldest (^17th century) and most impressive of all, standing two storeys high. Linger over the details: it is adorned at eye level with erotic sculptures. Take a close look at the long inscription on a long, parchment-like stone, which forms the impressive decorative background of a fountain with a drinking water reservoir called hiti or jahru in Newar. The inscription contains paragraphs in 15 different languages. It is due to King Pratap Malla who, in 1664, left this enigma indicating the location of a treasure.

Lohan Chowk. This courtyard was bounded by four red towers built by King Prithvi Narayan Shah, representing the valley's four Newar imperial cities: the tower at Basantapur (Kathmandu) and the tower at Bhaktapur (Lakshmi Bilas) collapsed in 2015, but are now almost completely rebuilt, while the tower at Kirtipur and the tower at Patan (Lalitpur) are still standing.

Tribhuwan Museum. Located in a part of the palace built by the Rana kings in the ^19th century. It was damaged by the 2015 earthquake but has now been reopened. It features exhibits from King Birendra's grandfather. The tour begins with the Shah dynasty, the last clan to rule Nepal, until 2006. Sculptures, several thrones, coronation jewels, weapons, period furniture and a numismatic collection are also on display. King Tribhuwan's bedroom, study and personal effects are also on display.