IGUN STREET - BRONZE FOUNDRY STREET

A vestige of the Edo civilization and its mastery of bronze art, Igun street is home to some thirty craft and souvenir stalls. While the former are well-stocked and their proprietors keen on haranguing tourists, the merchandise dwindles and the dust accumulates as you move away from the street entrance. But that's the whole point! Unearthing the original piece that's been hidden away in the back of a storeroom, hidden under years of neglect. The street entrance is marked by a clay-coloured archway flocked with a bronze coat of arms, announcing "La guilde des fondeurs de bronze du Benin". The latter also claims to give access to a World Heritage site.

You'll see a lot of modern "bronzes", far too flashy to be honest and often hastily cast with a relatively unattractive finish. Old bronze is coppery, even black, and many pieces are scattered randomly around the stalls. Benin's bronzes, however, are world-renowned. Halfway up the street, you may spot two enormous, almost life-size horses and a few antique pieces. If you take your time and make friends with one of the craftsmen, ask to see his workshop and have the bronze casting technique explained to you. If you're tired of the copper hues, there are plenty of wooden statues and other local crafts, including the Oba's famous pearl necklaces.