OSUN SACRED FOREST

The one you've come for, and the one that won't disappoint! First of all, for the breath of fresh air and deep calm it offers to restless, exhaust-guzzling city dwellers. Secondly, for the initiatory route along the Osun River and its centuries-old trees, which takes in a parade of hallucinogenic sculptures designed to meditate on the meaning of life. Finally, to better understand the Isese religion and Yoruba mythology. Practiced mainly in south-western Nigeria, this religion was long marginalized by European settlers, who promoted Islam and Christianity as "civilized" religions. Under colonial influence, Isese practices were decried, stigmatized or considered taboo, and many rituals had to be concealed or adapted to survive. Despite this pressure, the religion has endured, often syncretising with monotheistic religions, retaining its myths, orisha cults and traditional ceremonies. Today, Isese is experiencing a revival, with cultural and heritage reappropriation, and its practices are increasingly recognized as an integral part of Yoruba and Nigerian identity.

The forest, which extends over 75 protected hectares, is very dense, home to numerous plants with medicinal virtues and some trees whose trunks have a striking diameter. Declared a national monument by the Nigerian government in 1965, it was listed as a World Heritage Site by UNESCO in 2005. Its recent renovation (2014) is the fruit of the commitment of local communities and the activism of Nigerian heritage and culture enthusiasts, supported by institutional partners such as the Austrian Embassy. Among the key players, Robin Campbell, head of the Nigerian Field Society, has played an important role in the development of the site.

The forest is said to have been discovered over 600 years ago by those who founded the settlement of Osogbo. The town's name is said to derive from the Oso Igbo expression, "the sorcerers of the forest", in reference to the mystical spirits that the first inhabitants encountered on arriving at the site. According to legend, they met the goddess Osun by the river, where she had established her kingdom. Depicted in numerous works as a mermaid, she accepted the new arrivals in exchange for a promise to honor and respect her. Every year, this promise is celebrated for nine days at the beginning of August, during the Osun Osogbo Festival. Devotees gather for prayers, offerings, songs and ritual dances. To fully appreciate the richness of the site, it's advisable to visit the forest first to explore the shrines and sculptures, then return during the festival to see the site come alive with processions and invocations.

The ensemble of sculptures, temples and shrines dates back to the 1950s. They were created by Susanne Wenger, an Austrian artist with a passion for the Osun cult, in collaboration with elders and local artists. Originally made of banco and clay, these structures were later consolidated in hardwood to protect them from the ravages of time.

Anthropomorphic silhouettes, ghostly shapes, bulging eyes, convoluted arches, sinuous arms or curves carved in stone and wood, masquerades and fantastical creatures, all set in a formidable theater of greenery and nature: the walk is inspiring and spellbinding. Along the medicinal river, a temple is guarded by the Iwòrò, the initiated priestesses. Access is restricted to the initiated, but it is possible to observe the whole complex from the outside. Nearby, other divinities are also honored, such as Sopona, god of epidemics and disease, and Ogun, god of war and iron. As you make your way down to the banks of the illustrious river, look out for the altars where sugar cane, popcorn and sweets are offered to the spirits of the departed and to estranged soul mates.

The torrent, from which the intertwined roots of biscornus trees draw their water, flows brown and bends at the point where a statue of the goddess Osun stands, welcoming you with open arms, all dressed in white. This is where the August Festival is held. On the small, pudgy statue of Esu, a devotee of the Osun goddess, numerous bloody feathers and scraps of food bear witness to weekly or even daily ritual sacrifices. A little further on, a suspension bridge from the 40s, on which time also seems to have stood still, along this mystical river and its majestic trees.

A second part of the forest is home to giant statues over 10 metres high, including Iamokbo, the 3-armed walking and flying protective goddess, and Ela, a spiritual being mediating between gods and humans, like a protean hydra imploring the heavens. Further on, a market and a palace, yet another monumental, phantasmagorical structure. Abandon your prejudices and let yourself be carried away by the fantastic and initiatory tales that animate these places.

At the end of the tour, craftsmen offer medicinal plants, talismans made of pearls and cowries, or totems representing the arms of Yoruba divinities. Choose your guardian angel and leave with a little of the magic that unites men and spirits in this sacred forest.