Things to see and do Asunción

The Plaza de los Disaparecidos, next to the presidential palace, pays tribute to those who died during the long dictatorship of Alfredo Stroessner (1954-1989). It features a sculpture by Carlos Colombino, depicting Stroessner crushed between two concrete blocks. The general's effigy originally stood at Cerro Lambaré. It had been erected in the 1980s, during the dictatorship. Colombino cut it out and transformed it, so that the era would never be forgotten.

The National Pantheon was originally a chapel dedicated to the Virgin of Asunción. Inspired by the Hôtel des Invalides in Paris, construction began in 1863 under the direction of architect Alissandro Ravizza. It was not completed until 1936, after the Chaco War. Inside the mausoleum lie the remains of the great men of Paraguayan history, the unknown soldier and the child martyrs of Acosta Ñu. An important celebration is held here on March¹ (Heroes' Day). It's worth noting that the Pantheon is ground zero for Paraguay's various roads.

This vast cemetery is a landmark of Asunción. You can immerse yourself in the country's history as you wander between the tombs and mausoleums of illustrious figures (presidents, musicians, writers...). The cemetery was built in 1842, on the site of a former convent of the Franciscan Recollects, who had to abandon the site when Dr Francia suppressed the religious orders. Famous graves include that of "Madame Lynch's" daughter.

This tree-lined square is located in front of the former main railway station. Plaza San Francisco was renamed Uruguaya in 1885, to thank Uruguay for returning to Paraguay the trophies from the War of the Triple Alliance. In the center is a statue of José Gervasio Artigas, the father of Uruguayan independence, who lived in exile in Paraguay from 1820 to 1850. It's a tranquil spot, ideal for a shady tereré, or to relax with a book (there are two architecturally striking bookshops on the square). Classical music concerts are sometimes organized.

Asunción's river port is one of the oldest on the continent. Located opposite the Bay of Asunción, a stone's throw from the Palacio de López and the arcades of La Recova, it has long played a major role in the movement of goods to and from the capital. It was abandoned a few years ago, with the relocation of its main activities to the ports of Villeta and Pilar, but its rusty old cranes give it a charming old-fashioned atmosphere. The historic central customs building has undergone extensive restoration in recent years, and since 2024 has been hosting temporary cultural exhibitions. The whole area is currently being revitalized, and the port could soon find a real commercial and tourist vocation... At the bottom of Montevideo street, you can board a small, picturesque boat, called a tucú tucú, which takes around 20 minutes to reach the village of Chaco'í ("Little Chaco") on the other side of the Río Paraguay, for a beautiful view of Asunción (departures every 30 minutes from 6 a.m. to 7 p.m.). Longer river trips are also available through agencies. Guyra Paraguay, for example, organizes birdwatching tours of Asunción Bay, an Important Bird Area recognized by Birdlife International. The bay lies on the border between the eastern and western regions of the country, and is home to around a third of the country's bird species.

The highest point in the metropolitan area (139 m) lies to the south of Asunción, close to the Bañado Sur slums, so you'll need to be careful if you're going there on your own. Nice view from the mirador, where you can see the importance of vegetation in this town. A monument pays tribute to the cacique Lambaré, leader of the Guarani resistance at the time of the Conquest. The mountain, formerly known as Avamba'e, was a sacred place for the Guaranis, whose wise men gathered there to communicate with Tupã, God creator of the Universe.

The historic heart of the capital is made up of four tree-lined squares, joined by Avenues Palma, Oliva, Chile and Independencia. These squares are: the Plaza de los Héroes, home to the Pantheon; the Plaza Juan E. O'Leary, where the Mercado Guasú (municipal market) stood until 1913; the Plaza de la Democracia, which hosts political and cultural events; and the Plaza de la Libertad, nicknamed the "Hippies' Square" and home to a small craft market and a number of itinerant tereré renters.

Founded in 1929, the museum is named after the creator of the Paraguayan Red Cross, who worked extensively in indigenous communities throughout the country. The museum boasts Paraguay's largest ethnographic collection, with over 3,000 items from different indigenous populations (funerary urns, kitchen utensils, feather ornaments, clothing, hammocks, weapons, etc.), as well as fine photographs. The museum has a library specializing in anthropology.

This beautiful space was created in 1979 by several artists, principally Carlos Colombino (1937-2013), a renowned visual artist, architect and writer. The permanent and temporary collections express the different visual expressions of Paraguay and Iberian America. If you have to visit only one museum in Paraguay, this is it! The works are rich and varied, and the facilities are quite pleasant. The first collection, that of the Museo del Barro (Clay Museum), is devoted to Paraguayan folk art dating back to the ^17th century. It boasts over 4,000 pieces, ranging from ceramics, wooden sculptures from Jesuit and Franciscan reductions, fabrics, lace (ñandutí) and silverware. It also features pre-Columbian ceramics from all over the continent. The Museo de Arte Indígena (Museum of Indigenous Art) collection showcases the artistic wealth of Paraguay's various indigenous groups. Over 1,750 pieces are on display, including ceramics, sculptures, ceremonial dress, masks, baskets and more. Finally, the collection of the Museo Paraguayo de Arte Contemporáneo (Museum of Contemporary Art) includes over 3,000 paintings, drawings, engravings, installations and sculptures by national artists, as well as those from other Latin American countries and Spain. At the entrance, you'll find a store selling quality handicrafts and a bookshop stocking fine art books.

Right next to the cathedral, this small museum is named after an illustrious archbishop, who had assembled a fine collection of Franciscan and Jesuit sculptures and many sacred art objects. There is also a room dedicated to Paraguayan Independence and the Triple Alliance War. Independence hero Pedro Juan Caballero was imprisoned here under the government of Dr. Francia, after a conspiracy attempt. He committed suicide in his cell in 1821.

This vast square seems completely abandoned. It is often occupied by encampments of destitute families (landless peasants, indigenous people or people displaced from the bañados, neighborhoods regularly flooded by the river). The place, which is more striking than truly dangerous, shows a very sad side of Paraguay, just a stone's throw from Congress and the presidential palace! The square is framed by the cathedral and the brick building of the Universidad Católica to the east; the central post office and police headquarters (a colonnaded building dating from 1854) to the south; the Cabildo and the Chacarita district to the north; and finally, Congress to the west. In front of the Cabildo, a statue of Juan Salazar de Espinoza, the founder of Asunción (August 15, 1537). Towards the Congress, Hermann Guggiari's tree-trunk sculpture pays homage to the "Mother of Cities". North of the Congress, a statue of Mariscal López on horseback, surrounded by the cannons of the War of the Triple Alliance. The square is nicknamed the Plaza del Marzo Paraguayo, because it was here that, on March 23, 1999, a huge citizens' demonstration took place in defense of justice and democracy, in response to the political assassination of the Vice-President of the Republic, Luis María Argaña. The demonstration ended in a bloodbath, with 8 dead and 700 wounded, the demonstrators falling under the bullets of ex-general Lino Oviedo's snipers (located at the top of the building where a large advertising billboard is installed on the roof).

Thematic tours (Circuito de Oro, ethnic, football...) in the capital and its surroundings. The Walking tour (free), 2 hours 30 on foot, allows you to learn more about the main monuments of the centre (departure from Turista Róga). The City tour (paying), 3 hours, with transport by minibus (departure from Shopping del Sol), offers a more global vision of the city, with interesting places where you wouldn't necessarily go. Good English speaking guides (French on request). Information from Raquel at the information point in Turista Róga.