Things to see and do Changu Narayan

Changu Narayan, "The Moving Hill of Narayan", is undoubtedly one of the oldest shrines in the valley, as evidenced by the delicacy of its sculptures. The construction of this temple would go back to the 4th century, but nothing remains of the original wooden temple. A fire devastated it completely in 1902. The site is dedicated to Vishnu in the form of Narayan, and beautiful stone carvings from the Licchavi period depict several of his avatars. An entrance door, flanked by two stone elephants, opens onto a real open-air museum. In the centre of the courtyard stands the two-storey main temple. Behind the building are the attributes of Vishnu - the conch, wheel, lotus and lasso - set on the top of four pillars. A multitude of stone sculptures and small shrines dedicated to Lakshmi, Kali and Shiva surround it. The temple houses a gilded representation of Vishnu that only the priest is allowed to see. It is said that the statue sometimes oozed, testifying to Vishnu's fight against the Naga. The cloth used to wipe his forehead is said to protect against snake bites. Kneeling before its master, the statue of Garuda, more man than bird, probably dates from the seventh century. At its side, protected by a golden grille, the king of Bhadgaon, Bhupatindra Malla, and his wife are kneeling in the position of donors. The base of the wheel pillar bears the oldest inscription in the valley. Attributed to King Licchavi Manadeva, it dates back to the year 454. On the right, on a small terrace, stands a black stone slab with a broken upper right edge. This 8th-century sculpture symbolizes Narayan lying on the serpent Ananta, surmounted, as in Buhanilkanta, by Vishnu Vishwarup - in his universal form - with a thousand heads and a thousand arms, a mark of his power. On the temple of Lakshmi Narayan, another sculpture dating from the same period depicts Vishnu Trivikranta (he who takes three steps) who, taking the form of a six-armed dwarf, tears the universe from the claws of the Bali demon king. He then asks his permission to withdraw and, using his powers, travels in three gigantic steps through earth, sky and space. Next to it, an 11th century sculpture shows Vishnu in the form of Narasimha, the Lionman. On the other side of the temple, you will see Vishnu Vaikunthanata, the effigy of the ten rupee bills, the traveller riding Garuda, and Vishnu Sridhara, the most classical representation of Vishnu.