In Japan, the people of Kochi Prefecture love to gather and celebrate. In this territory of the south of Shikoku island, a term is used to describe these happy moments such as weddings, seasonal events and other festivals, where people gather around special food and drink sake: okyaku. Let's go to Kochi Prefecture and Nakatosa Village to experience okyaku festivals, where food and conviviality delight locals and visitors

The origins of okyaku festivals

Nakatosa is located in the west of Kochi prefecture. It is the ancient port of Kure, famous for its bonito fishing.

In the 9th century in Tosa, the old name of Kochi, a government official named Ki no Tsurayuki, after serving in Tosa for four years (950-954), wrote a diary when returning to Kyoto by ship. It mentions the beginnings of the okyaku festivals. We learn that on the quay, people from Kochi often brought sake and food. Sometimes, everyone ate and drank together. This anecdote proves that Sake parties were already popular in Kochi at that time.

Okyaku is the term nowadays used to talk about the sawachi and sake parties in Kochi province. While the word literally means "guest" in the Japanese language, in Kochi it is used more to refer to a celebration and gathering.

Sawachi is a regional culinary specialty of Kochi. Originally, the term means a large and expensive plate. At the beginning of the Edo period, sawachi was served at festivals in samurai families or at the lord's house. It was not until the end of the Edo period that the tradition of sawachi spread to all households. During the Edo period (1603-1868), the tradition of sawachi was first practiced in many parts of Japan as a Shinto ritual. However, over time, it became firmly established only in Kochi, and there is a reason for this. At the time, Kochi had no problem with women drinking alcohol in the home, whereas this was taboo in the rest of Japan. Because sawachi could be prepared in advance, women did not have to cook during okyaku parties and could eat and drink with everyone.

If many Japanese dishes are served hot, it is not the case of sawachi, a culinary tradition which developed in the way of Kochi, to share with several people in the same plate!

Nowadays, you can taste sawachi by going to restaurants that have made it their specialty. But the tradition of okyaku is still alive in the homes. In Nakatosa, when fishermen go on long fishing trips, they celebrate okyaku with their family and friends, after praying to Shinto deities. Okyaku still has a religious aspect.

What ingredients and food to make sawachi?

During Okyaku festivities, food is very important and therefore a cuisine called sawachi is served. The sawachi ryori is served on a large plate with various foods such as sashimi, bonito tataki, sushi, somen noodles, steamed sea bream or inaka-sushi (vegetable sushi), fruits and sweets.

In Kochi prefecture, sawachi contains a lot of citrus fruits, especially yuzu, the juice of which is used to make sushi. In Kochi, it is even said that a sushi that does not smell of yuzu juice is not a real sushi!

While sushi plays an important role in sawachi, there are actually three main types of dishes

- One with only sushi

- One with only namas, sashimi and tataki

- One with kumimono, sushi and various sweet and salty foods, etc.

One plate is usually shared by 3 or 4 people

Sushi in Kochi is unique. There are also makisushis, nigirisushis and fish marinated in vinegar with yuzu juice. Sometimes boiled wild vegetables replace the fish in the dishes, a reminder that fresh fish was once hard to find in the mountains.

Sashimi sawachi is the simplest and consists of slices of raw fish. Nakatosa is known for its sawachi rich in Tataki. We can also find in the dishes kumimonos, saba sushis, but also a whole mackerel, without forgetting the local shellfish.

It should also be noted that the Kochi prefecture enjoys a warm and rainy climate, and rice production is flourishing there. Sake brewing has also developed here, taking advantage of the abundant water resources. There are still 19 sake breweries in Kochi Prefecture. The Nishioka Syuzo Sake Brewery in Kure is the oldest sake brewery still operating in the prefecture. And the brewery continues to produce sake suitable for local cuisine.

The tradition of sawachi, as one can imagine, is time-consuming and requires some organization. Traditionally, the men are in charge of preparing the fish and the women of cooking it. But it is also a family affair. All members want to participate, whether in the kitchen, during the service or at the end, when the task of washing the dishes becomes unavoidable. The style of cooking, which is oriented towards sharing and abundance, fits perfectly with the idea of gathering and celebration. Family, friends and colleagues are all invited to participate in the festivities.

An address where to taste sawachi in Nakatosa:

Kuroshio Honjin http://honjin.or.jp/index.html

Nakatosa Kure 8009-11 Takaoka gun Kochi 789-1301 Japan

Phone: +81(0)8 89 53 35 00 - Fax: +81(0)8 89 52 36 50