Classical music
Music lovers need look no further than Place de Neuve, on the other side of the Plainpalais plain: this is where the district dedicated to music nestles. Here you'll find the Grand Théâtre de Genève - which is the Opéra de Genève - a magnificent edifice with the air of the Palais Garnier. With its molded, gilded and faux-marble foyer, its modernist auditorium (rebuilt after a fire in 1951) and its top-flight programming - which has become hyper-audacious under the leadership of Aviel Cahn - the venue is a veritable Geneva institution. A must-see in Switzerland for a lyrical or choreographic performance, a recital or even a play. On the same square (Place Neuve), you'll also come across the Conservatoire de Musique, where the annual Geneva International Music Competition is held. A little further on, behind the Maison des arts du Grütli, stands the Victoria Hall, a concert venue with a neoclassical façade and exceptional acoustics. This is the emblematic home of the Orchestre de la Suisse romande (OSR), one of the country's most prestigious symphony ensembles. Founded in 1918 by Ernest Ansermet - an illustrious musician who, between 1915 and 1923, was entrusted with the musical direction of the Ballets Russes by Serge de Diaghilev - the OSR is highly accomplished in works by Milhaud and Stravinsky, and has been conducted by such luminaries as Neeme Järvi (between 2012 and 2015). Less famous than Neeme Järvi, but still an important player in Swiss classical music, the OSR has also been led by Armin Jordan, one of the country's great conductors, who has also conducted many operas in France (Lyon, Nancy, Bordeaux and, more sporadically, Marseille).
It's worth noting that, in addition to its concert halls, Geneva also boasts a number of fine classical events. Among them, Musiques en été is clearly one of the highlights of the year, with a fine program of classical, jazz and opera in exceptional venues. For early risers, the famous Aubes musicales summer event offers a beautiful concert - free and open-air - every morning from 6 to 7 a.m., during sunrise, at the Bains des Pâquis. It's a wonderful way to wake up, with an emphasis on classical music (what better way to welcome the sun?). For more adventurous souls, the Archipel festival in April focuses on contemporary music, with artists such as Marianne Schuppe and Zurich duo Tizia Zimmermann and Pablo Lienhard.
Current music
Don't be fooled by its tranquil appearance, Geneva has long been home to a vibrant alternative scene. While the 1960s belonged to Zurich and Basel - epicentres of rock'n'roll in the country with bands like Les Sauterelles, the Swiss Beatles - Geneva became an active musical hotbed in the late 1970s, with the emergence of the punk scene. It was in this spirit, and with the desire to promote rock and alternative music, that emblematic venues such as L'Usine, Le Rhino and, a little later, Artamis were born, squats that over time became staples of Geneva's nightlife. Although pressure from the authorities and the real estate bubble led to the closure of these venues - with the exception of L'Usine - their spirit can be found here and there in the city. As in the events organized by the Association pour l'encouragement de la musique improvisée (AMR), which give pride of place to jazz, the avant-garde and free musical forms.
Today, the heart of Geneva's musical life still beats in the Jonction district, home to L'Usine. A slightly bohemian, fairly alternative and ultimately rather trendy area, with venues such as La Barje, a cooperative and militant café with an innovative and diversified cultural offering, or the Ethno Bar, a must-visit with its 300m2, industrial ambience, terrace facing the Rhône and cutting-edge programming. Unmissable and cutting-edge, two terms that perfectly qualify Le Chat Noir, a mythical and hyperactive scene (nearly 120 concerts a year) much appreciated on both sides of the border.
Also worth noting is the excellent Antigel festival, offering music, theater, dance, disco, swimming, markets, aperitifs, clubbing and sports in atypical venues. It's an opportunity to rub shoulders with some interesting names on the Geneva scene, such as Vendredi sur Mer and its disco-pop, Aïsha Devi and her bewitching electronica, rappers Di-Meh, Slimka and Makala, and the excellent work of the Bongo Joe label (also a very good record shop), which reissues gems and unearths fabulous current bands (starting with Altin Gun).
Theater and dance
With some thirty theaters and venues, Geneva offers a dense cultural offering, especially in relation to its population. The whole spectrum of theater is on offer, from the classical repertoire to works by contemporary authors and shows by talented comedians. For lovers of classical theater, nothing beats the Comédie de Genève. A prestigious stage, it is the meeting place for all fine texts - Racine, Oscar Wilde, Tennessee Williams or Chekhov and many others - and a privileged venue for creation, debate and reflection, whose reputation extends far beyond Geneva. This is an institution that has produced some of the greatest names in Swiss drama in its list of successive directors and stage directors: André Talmès, Benno Besson, Claude Stratz and Hervé Loichemol. More contemporary, the Théâtre du Grütli is another of Geneva's great stages, and a recognized space for atypical and audacious creation. Divided into two spaces - the Black Box and the White Box - the Grütli offers shows, readings and performances that challenge the traditional relationship between artists and audiences, as well as the separation between disciplines. In Carouge, the Théâtre de Carouge is a source of pride for its residents. Although a small structure, its director Jean Liermier ensures constant innovation in theatrical performances. A success, its reputation extends beyond the country's borders, with no fewer than 50,000 people attending every year. Otherwise, in summer, a must-see is the Théâtre de l'Orangerie and its two adjoining greenhouses. The season may be short, but it's no less intense, generally featuring fine classics and contemporary creations.
These fine venues and events are all opportunities to encounter the great texts of Swiss dramaturgy. Starting with Robert Pinget, one of the representatives of the Nouveau Roman, whose work was almost entirely published in France by Éditions de Minuit, or Dominique Ziegler and his theater riddled with ambiguous personalities, as well as Manon Pulver and her vitriolic humor.
On the dance front, Geneva is also well endowed with classical institutions such as the Ballet du Grand Théâtre de Genève, which for several decades has been synonymous with choreographic daring. Following the death of Philippe Cohen, director for 19 years, Sidi Larbi Cherkaoui took over the helm in 2022, bringing new impetus to the contemporary dance scene with an artistic direction that blends dance, music, visual arts and haute couture. One of his latest creations, Ihsane, has been hailed for its exploration of Moroccan roots and the memory of his father.
Otherwise, since 1986, Geneva's benchmark for the promotion of contemporary dance has undoubtedly been theAssociation pour la danse contemporaine-ADC. To be seen between the Salle des Eaux-Vives and the Pavillon de danse, its official residence.
