MUSEUM OF APPLIED ARTS

The former palace of diplomat Alexander Polovtsev was converted into a museum in 1938. Of the 24 original rooms, only a dozen remain. The reception hall and the small salon in eclectic Oriental style are well worth a visit. The architectural ensemble is organized around an inner courtyard with iwan. In the reception room, a mihrab points the way to Mecca. A quotation from Umar Khayyâm - "The world is a palace with two doors, through one you enter, through the other you leave." - adorns one of the doors to the great hall, whose walls are entirely covered in painted stucco. Carved wooden columns support an impressive painted wooden ceiling. The original central fountain was covered in marble a few years ago. Just behind it, the small hookah-smoking lounge has also suffered from restoration.

In the exhibition halls, you'll find 50 traditional crafts and over 7,000 items from the different regions of Uzbekistan: knives from Tchouste, ceramics from Richtan, fabrics from Marguilan, traditional costumes and gold-thread embroidery from Bukhara, suzani (embroidered hangings) from different periods, tioupé (embroidered skullcaps), wood carvings, musical instruments and jewelry, most of which date from the ^20th century.

At the end of the tour, you can linger in the souvenir store, where you'll find a range of beautiful items. There's also a small café in the courtyard for a hot drink or refreshment at the end of your visit.