ZENGHI ATA MAUSOLEUM

15 km from Tashkent, in the village of Zengiota, the mausoleum of Zenghi Ata (Sufi preacher), known as "the black sheikh" (for the color of his skin), and that of his wife, Ambar Bibi, were built in the ^14th century on Tamerlane's orders. Pilgrims are fervent and numerous, tourists discreet.

Architecture, decoration and mosaics are typical of the Timurid era. The madrasa, still in use, the small tree-lined courtyard and the mosque are ^18th-century additions; the minaret dates from the early 20th century. The mausoleum of Ambar Bibi is located in the cemetery adjoining the mausoleum of Zenghi Ata. Many women pay their respects here, circling the building three times and kissing the walls. These are covered with prayers, wishes or simple words traced with pens on the bricks. The pilgrims then choose a tree in the cemetery, to the branches of which they tie small pieces of cloth so that the wind will carry away their prayers and make their fertility wishes come true.

Another Tashkent family tradition : for each twelve-year cycle according to the Eastern calendar (" muchal yili "), when a family member reaches the age of 12, 24, 36 or over, he or she brings a gift to Zengi-Ota. Typically, two meters of white cloth, a white handkerchief, a packet of tea, a kilo of refined sugar and enough to make pilaf!

Thebest time to visit is on Fridays, after the High Prayer, or during the celebration of Navruz, the festival marking the return of spring.