Things to see and do Wrocław

Built in 1856, it is the only pre-war Jewish cemetery to have been completely preserved. The preservation of monuments, buildings and places of worship in Poland is always miraculous. After the Nazi occupation, many were destroyed. This cemetery is an exceptional example of ^19th-century funerary art. Sparsely frequented, it imposes a melancholy atmosphere, where solitude accompanies the beautiful Jewish headstones, half-overgrown by tall weeds, for lack of a Jewish community large enough to maintain it.

Built in the ^13th century, this church is as tall as it is long, and has a very disconcerting slender yet squat appearance. This is actually a consequence of its particular architecture, as it consists of two churches superimposed one on top of the other. The lower church is dedicated to St. Bartholomew, patron saint of the Piast dynasty, while the other is dedicated to the Holy Cross. This is undoubtedly one of the most beautiful buildings on Ostrów Tumski.

The Museum of the History of the Polish Post is housed in the premises of the present Central Post Office, an imposing building constructed between 1926 and 1929, whose expressionist architectural forms are attributable to Neumann. The museum is dedicated to the history of the Polish postal system and telecommunications from the 16th century to the present day. Paintings, graphic art, stamps, mailboxes, uniforms and many other wonders for enthusiasts in this specialized museum.

Located just opposite the cathedral on the north side (to the left of the main entrance), this tiny, unassuming Romanesque church is easy to overlook. That's probably why it's so seldom visited. And yet it's a veritable jewel of the town's architectural heritage. Built in 1230, it is the only church to have survived the Tatar invasions and the pagan revolt that sacked its sisters. To this day, it's the city's oldest church: it deserves to be better known!

Behind the church of Sainte-Elisabeth, don't miss this cobbled alley of the old butcher shops, which dates from the 17th and 18th centuries. The old stores of yesteryear are now home to art galleries and other craft stores. Wrocław makes a hell of a commercial for this fashionable passageway with an atmosphere that could not be more Western and touristy. At the end of the street, a sculpture pays homage to the barnyard animals that were once the focus of the work!

Housed in the former ^15th-century Arsenal, it features objects from prehistoric and medieval Silesia, including magnificent funerary urns, fibulae, axes, pottery and the tomb of a knight buried with his horse. Also in the same building is the Military Museum (Muzeum Militariów), with similar opening hours and prices. It displays an impressive collection of weapons, including European military helmets. It's more of an exhibition gallery than a museum.