VALLÉE DE LA NAM OU
The Nam Ou (nam means "river") has its source at the border with China and joins the Mekong at the Pak Ou Caves, upstream of Luang Prabang. Descending this river by boat promises magnificent landscapes and the stops in the villages offer a real kaleidoscope of local life: fishermen on their pirogues, women washing their clothes, children playing by the water's edge, cattle in the wild..
To discover it, it is necessary to take a water taxi, a kind of long wooden dugout canoe propelled by a motor. The departure takes place early in the morning. You sit on rustic wooden benches, sometimes even on a simple plank; a piece of clothing folded as a cushion will then be very useful!
The landscapes reveal themselves as the water flows: the lush bamboo forest tumbles down the surrounding ridges to the banks. Sometimes the river's current speeds up, sometimes it slows down and the river is as calm as a lake. Rocks follow the immaculate sandbanks while limestone cliffs rise skyward like towers over the meandering jungle. The Nam Ou is one of the wildest and most unspoiled rivers in Laos and its daily use is still reserved for the locals. It is therefore not an organized tour, as could be the case on the Mekong for example.
Towards Luang Prabang, 3 possible routes (from 1 to 3 days):
Departure from Ban Hat Sa, 20 km east of Phongsaly, in the middle of the mountains of North Laos. Phongsaly is accessible by road from Oudomxay. Bring warm clothing and protection in case of rain. Moreover, fog envelops the mountain every morning and disappears before noon.
Departure from Muang Khua, a town accessible by bus from Oudomxay or by the road crossing the Vietnamese border (Sop Houn). This day boat trip on the Nam Ou is undoubtedly the most picturesque and allows you to reach the village of Muang Ngoi Neua, which is not served by road. The majority of travellers stop there for 2 or 3 nights to enjoy the easy hikes that the surroundings offer.
Departure from Nong Khiew, a small village 4 hours drive north of Luang Prabang. One hour by pirogue is enough to reach Muang Ngoi Neua, upstream on the river. Downstream, the boat trip to Luang Prabang is not very interesting: less captivating than the two previous days. The big bridge that crosses the river at Nong Khiew allows the passage of the road linking Xam Neua to Oudomxay: another adventure.