ČESKÝ KRUMLOV CASTLE

On the hillside of Český Krumlov, the imposing, particularly photogenic castle complex is one of the Czech Republic's best-known "postcards". Dominating the town, it assembles volumes built around five inner courtyards and gardens that stretch out into the countryside. The second-largest castle in the Czech Republic (the complex comprises almost forty buildings) after Prague Castle, it shares the latter's impressive dimensions and commanding position above the city and the Vltava River. The courtyards and other elements are linked by passageways and footbridges, making for a highly entertaining visit. From time immemorial, the town has grown up around the castle, in keeping with the families who have owned it. Founded as a small fortress by the Víkovici family in the ^mid-13th century, it was constantly enlarged to satisfy the ambitions and power of its wealthy owners. In 1302, the founding family died out. This marked the beginning of a period of major renovations by the Rožmberk family, particularly during the ^16th century. It became the family's principal residence. Their emblem, a red rose, adorns many of the castle's rooms. In the ^18th century, the Eggenberk (from 1622 to 1719) and Schwarzenberg (from 1719) families carried out numerous Baroque-style renovations: construction of the Bellarie riding arena and belvedere, remodeling of the chapel, decoration of the carnival hall (a prodigious trompe-l'oeil of a masked ball featuring Pierrot, Harlequin and all the characters of the commedia dell'arte), construction of the new castle theater and the superb bridge (Pláštový most) formed by a three-story corridor supported by high piers.. In 1938, Krumlov was annexed to Austria by the Nazis, who expropriated the Schwarzenberg family. The Czech minority was expelled. In 1945, the town was liberated and the German population expelled. Czechs from Krumlov and other parts of the country then repopulated Krumlov.

Depending on how much time you have to devote to the visit, choose from one of the suggested tours: one gives a complete overview of the original Renaissance and Baroque rooms, while another focuses more on the history of the Schwarzenberg family.

The first courtyard features sloping ground. It was at the center of local economic life under the Schwarzenbergs. It is surrounded by a former pharmacy (^14th century, facades covered in sgraffito), a hospital, ^16th-century stables, a Gothic residence, a former farmhouse, a dairy, a forge and a brewery. In short, a small town in its own right. A stone bridge leads over the moat. At the far end of the moat, you can see bears. These animals have been kept here in captivity since the ^16th century, first by tradition, then by interest (a big hit with children)! The moat is quite green and vast, but it's obvious that the animals are bored.

Past the plantigrade pit, you reach the next courtyard, dominated by the ^13th-century Gothic palace (Hrádek, transformed into a Renaissance palace in the ^16th century). The tower that once defended it has been elevated by arcades and galleries to great effect. The Renaissance tower dominates the whole city, and has become its symbol. Its elegance and rich ornamentation contrast with the high, austere surrounding walls (40 m high). You can climb up the castle's round tower.

Surrounded by two slightly dark courtyards, this part of the château underwent continuous development between the ^14th and ^18th centuries. Several rooms in the buildings can be visited. The most beautiful is the Salle des Masques. Here, grand balls and receptions were held, as evidenced by the superb trompe-l'œil paintings (1748), whose colorful, smiling figures invite visitors to join in the festivities. Other rooms feature furniture from different periods, a collection of Brussels tapestries and an impressive ^17th-century gilded coach. And don't miss a stroll through the multi-level cellars. These are named after Wenceslas IV, who is said to have been imprisoned here in 1394. Today, they are frequently home to ceramics by local and international artists.

Zámecké Divadlo. You'll have to "undertake" the crossing of the ravine to reach this other jewel of Český Krumlov's castle. This is a superb rococo theater built in 1680 by the Eggenbergs. It is exceptional and precious for the history of this art form, as it has been perfectly preserved. The auditorium, sets, costumes and wooden machinery are all the same as when it was built. Popular performances are still given here.

Not far away is the former riding arena, the "gateway" to the castle gardens. Designed by the Johann Christian von Eggenberg family (responsible for the Baroque theater), the gardens are a pleasant extension of the visit, with pavilions including a rococo Bellaria pleasure pavilion, a music pavilion, a fountain with waterfalls, a winter riding arena and a vinarná around a large fireplace. Natural areas and formal flowerbeds blend together. The garden is also home to a revolving theater, the setting for the summer festival. A surprising place: here it's not the stage that turns, but the spectators' stands.