DEHISTAN

Lost in the middle of the desert, the site of Dehistan is difficult to access and largely unknown. Nevertheless, it bears witness to the past splendour of the oasis of Mistriane, where the first traces of urbanization date back to the third millennium. Archaeologists consider that the region has undergone three phases of development: the third millennium before our era until the first century. The oasis was populated by farmers who control irrigation techniques. Between the third and the eighth century, Mistriane is occupied by tribes of Turkish origin, which are primarily semi-nomadic breeders. A few mounds scattered in the dates plain of that time. But the main archaeological remains date from the third stage of development in the region, between the th and th centuries. The city covered an area of 200 ha and included a citadel surrounded by residential quarters. The citadel was apparently protected by two rows of rough watchtower ramparts. These protections did not allow the Shahs of Khorezm who lived the place to resist the Mongolian armies, which largely ravaged the city in the th century. Mistriane, however, managed to recover after the Passage passage, but only to turn off about a century later, hit by an enemy much more unforgiving than the Mongols: desertification.

From this past splendour, few remains are still standing. Part of the ramparts have nevertheless been preserved. Two minarets of the th century are still in good condition, and the ruins of the mosque doors always stand in the middle of the desert. Minarets are about metres high, and one of them still has beautiful blue ceramic inscriptions in its upper part. The foundations of four mosques from the Mongole period were updated on the site. At the moment, however, excavations have been completely halted, owing to lack of funding.

At 7 km from there lies the cemetery of Meshked, where you can still see five tombs of the th and th centuries. The best preserved is Shir-Kabir, which is both a mausoleum and a small mosque. It is a place of fairly frequented pilgrimage, as evidenced by the hundreds of votive tissues hanging inside the mosque. The cemetery floor is dotted with small stone pyramids. These represent the prayers of pilgrims who come to ask for protection of spirits.

Attention: the site is located in the middle of the desert, and snakes seem to appreciate the shadow of the tombstones…