CITADELLE

The walled citadel of Fatehpur Sikri is an absolutely unique architectural ensemble listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The Mughal emperor Akbar made Fatehpur Sikri his capital after the prophecy of the Sufi saint Sheikh Salim Chishti promising him three sons had come true. In addition to a magnificent mosque located outside the walls, Akbar built three palaces in the citadel, one for each of his favorite wives: a Hindu, a Muslim and a Christian. There are many other buildings in the citadel that rival each other in finesse of execution. Situated at the top of a hill, there are many views of the surrounding countryside. At the foot of the hill, the soldiers' quarters and the royal suite were spread out. One can still see the double surrounding wall stretching hundreds of meters around the imperial city. The citadel is at its most beautiful when the sun is setting and the red sandstone is ablaze, but beware if you are on a train and returning to Agra. No matter what time of day you pass by, you can't help but be impressed by this fantastic legacy.

Usually, access to the citadel is through the Agra Gate, located northeast of the city of Fatehpur Sikri, a little further up the road after the bus stop. This is where you will start your visit. You can climb up to the citadel on foot or take the shuttle bus from the visitors' parking lot to the site. It is located after Agra Gate, on the left. The shuttle leaves every 20 minutes or so. There are two entrances to the citadel where you can get your entrance ticket. The first one is close to the mosque, the second one, a little further, allows you to visit the citadel in the order indicated by the audioguide.

The site of Fatehpur Sikri was already occupied before Akbar chose to establish his capital there. A large collection of 1000 year old Jain statues and the foundations of a temple were found during excavations undertaken in 2000. It seems that the area was a religious and cult site. Archaeological excavations revealed that there was already a fortress built by the Sikarwar Rajputs. The latter controlled the region intermittently with the Muslims who came from Persia between the 7th and 16th centuries.

Diwan-i-Am: When one enters the gate of Agra, the Diwan-i-Am is the first building that one perceives. Akbar, mounted on his throne, gave his public hearings there, dispensed justice and listened to his subjects. Those condemned to death would let out their last breaths here, crushed under the weight of the royal elephant. This immense court was therefore suitable for the great male ceremonies; the other half of society, the women, had to be content with discreetly observing the session behind the jali (small stone windows) on each side.

Diwan-i-Khas: On leaving the Diwan-i-Am, at the end of the courtyard on the right stands the Diwan-i-Khas or the private audience room. In fact, the room occupies the entire height of the building. In the center stands a large, richly carved column inspired by Gujarati architecture, with thirty-six scrolled corbels supporting a capital from which four arms radiate. On the lower part of the column are writings symbolizing each of the religions. According to the legend, Akbar, on a circular throne placed on the capital, presided over the council with his four ministers flanking the end of the four arms!

Ankh Michauli : This is the treasury and is located right next to the Diwan-i-Khas. It housed the Empire's money in stone safes. One of these caches has been left exposed in one of the corners of the room.

Pachisi Court and Panch Mahal: The court you are in is the Pachisi Court, the name given to a game played by Akbar. Notice the cross-shaped checkerboard in the center of the court. Legend has it that the emperor used female slaves as pawns. To the west of this courtyard, opposite the Diwan-i-Am is the Panch Mahal, a pyramid-shaped palace topped by a chhatri. Originally, openwork stone panels concealed the interior and its 176 columns. It is assumed that this palace was intended for the women of the court.

Alup Tanao and the Daulat Khana: continuing south you reach the ornamental pool called Anup Talao. Four bridges lead to the central platform on which the singer Tansen was performing accompanied by musicians. Akbar could listen to him from his private apartments in the Daulat Khana (the Mansion of Fortune). On the first floor, the smallest room contained the royal library and the emperor slept slightly higher up in the corner on the left.

Jodha Bai Palace and Birbal Palace: To the west of the ornamental garden, this is the most imposing of the entire citadel. Its entrance, particularly well guarded, was also used as access to the harem. This palace would have been built for Akbar's Hindu wife, Jodha Bai, his favorite. The rooms were sumptuously decorated with silks and carpets. The harem is the U-shaped building opposite the palace. It housed Akbar's 200 maids who lived there permanently.

The Birbal Palace has aged better, and one can admire the richness of the wall paintings. It would have been used as a residence for one of Akbar's favorite ministers.