JUNAGARH FORT

In the 16th century, the alliance with Emperor Akbar kept Bikaner safe from conflict. However, Maharaja Rai Singh (reigned 1571-1611) had this magnificent fort built with the spoils of his campaigns in command of the imperial armies. Built in a plain difficult to defend and not on a hillock like the other main Rajput fortresses (Jodhpur, Jaisalmer, Chittorgarh...), the work is reinforced by 37 bastions. Work began in 1589 and it took 5 years to complete the construction. At the time, it was common for the maharajas to build a new palace, more modern and luxurious than the old one. The royal family also had a third palace built, the Lalgarh Palace, at the beginning of the 20th century. Not much remains of the previous fort, which stood near the Laxmi Narayan temple and of which some traces can still be seen. The Junagarh fort occupies more than 5 hectares, in the center of what is today the city of Bikaner. If there was nothing around at the time of its construction, very quickly, a new city developed around the royal districts. The main interest of the visit lies in the richness of the palaces, buildings and rooms decorated in a luxurious way over the centuries.

After crossing the imposing red wall of one kilometer long, you will pass two more gates, Daulat Pol and Suraj Pol. Next to Daulat Pol, you can see bas-reliefs of hands on the façade. They symbolize and pay tribute to women who committed sati. The wives joined their fallen husbands in death by throwing themselves into their pyre. This practice of sati, very common in Rajasthan, is fortunately prohibited since 1987. The gate of Suraj Pol is guarded by statues of two Rathore warriors, Jaimal and Patta, who died while heroically defending the fortress of Chittorgarh against the Mughal troops in 1568. The courtyards between the gates contain small temples dedicated to different deities: Kalka, Ganesh or Devi dwara, the Mother Nature. After crossing a last porch, you arrive on a large esplanade. The entrance is on your left, behind the metal curtains set up to prevent birds from entering. Then you have to climb a narrow ramp that leads to the first courtyard of the palace.

In thecenter of the first courtyard, a small white marble basin provided a little freshness to the royal family. For one of the great concerns of the sovereigns was to protect themselves from the sun, an implacable enemy. Notice the small fresco painted at the top of the wall to the right of the courtyard: when it arrived in the desert, the steam train seems to have been a major inspiration for the local artists. The diwan-i-khas (hall of private audiences), built in 1631 by maharaja Karan Singh, is especially remarkable for its gilding. The rulers used to receive their distinguished guests here. But it is the next room, Anup Mahal, which constitutes the most beautiful room of the fort.

Started under Karan Singh and completed by his successor Anup Singh, it gleams with gilding and mosaics of colored tiles and mirrors. It was the coronation hall of the maharajas, and one can still see a richly decorated royal throne.

After passing through the Badal Mahal (Cloud Palace), whose walls are entirely painted with clouds (perhaps to release some coolness?) and rain scenes, you will reach the temple of Hanuman, the leader of the monkey army in the Ramayana. It contains the famous nail boards dear to all fakirs. The next rooms, Gaj Mandir, were used as chambers for the ruler - and the queen - and are richly decorated with gilding, mirrors, sandalwood and ivory inlays. From the nearby terrace, you will have a beautiful view of the entire fort and the city. The Hawa Mahal (Palace of the Winds), located on the upper floor, served as a retreat for the maharajas during heat waves. A pulley allowed a servant, placed outside, to operate an enormous fan for the comfort of the prince (and perhaps of some princess...).

Ganga Singh had the most recent part of the fort, Ganga Niwas, converted into an opulent darbar (reception hall). It houses magnificent collections of weapons, yellowed photos (one of them shows Georges Clemenceau hunting a tiger) and personal objects of the maharaja. Admire also the wooden ceiling: the work of craftsmen who came specially from Afghanistan. Finally, the next hall holds a surprise: a single-seater plane, probably one of the first to fly over India, offered by the British government to Ganga Singh.

Two other halls, the Phool Mahal (Palace of Flowers) and the Chandra Mahal (Palace of the Moon), are normally closed to visitors. But for a few extra rupees, the guide can show you around. Decorated with many mirrors, they also have murals and a statue of the Sun God, Surya, mythical ancestor of the god Rama and the Rathore dynasty.

Prachina Cultural Centre & Museum, inside the fort. Open every day from 9am to 6pm. Admission: Rs 50 and Rs 20 for a camera, Rs 75 for a video camera (Tel: +91 151 252 5609). This small museum in an annex of the palace presents an interesting collection of costumes, dishes, murals, carriages and other small objects. Also a small restaurant on the spot.