Travel Guide Vathi

A small natural port at the end of a pretty fjord, Vathi (or Rina) is popular with sailors. It's also the gateway to the only fertile valley of Kalymnos: the hinterland grows citrus fruits, especially lemons and mandarins. Here, sleepy villages like Platanos seem timeless. Pretty Byzantine churches dot the surrounding hills, making for pleasant walks in the area. One of the most beautiful walks in Kalymnos takes you to the Panaghia Kyra Psili monastery, carved into the rock. The trail climbs for 30 minutes, a little strenuous at the end, but you'll be rewarded with sublime views over the fjord and the Vathi valley. The Dormition celebrations (August 15) give rise to magnificent panigyria: don't hesitate to climb up to the monastery to see this unique testimony to fervor. As for bathing, you can dive into the clear waters of the little port, but there are also some magnificent wild coves nearby. To reach them, however, you'll have to go by sea. Two options: taxi-boat or sea kayak, for hire at the kayak center on the bay (+30 22430 31132 - waternative.co/kalymnoskayak). A number of taverns have sprung up along the harbour for lovers of secluded villages, including the family-run Marmita tavern, or the lovely tables at Limanaki, the small harbour at the entrance to the fjord.