Travel Guide Ahurei

Is it excessive to say that a place is at the end of the world? After all, the earth is round. However, for everyone, the end of the world inevitably evokes a remote, isolated space beyond which the void extends, the immense virgin; Rapa, in short!At 500 km from any inhabited land, this rock emerged in the middle of nowhere is at the limit of the universe. Beyond that, nothing. To the south, not a pear peaks the ocean, to Antarctica. Thousands of kilometers separate from South America to the east, and from Australia to the west. Some icebergs rarely lick its coasts… Rapa Iti, (little Rapa), has a very strong link with Rapa Nui (grande Rapa), a Polynesian name of Easter Island, otherwise more isolated, but still equipped with an international airport. None of this in Rapa Iti. The island has very little contact with the outside world. Constable Le Goffic in 1918 was informed on the same day of the beginning and end of the First World War!Again today, Rapa is connected to the world only by the Tuhaapae IV who spends once every two months, and by phone and TV.It is better not to have an accident: We won't be looking for you…Despite its isolation, Rapa Iti prides itself on an exciting but often tragic story. Populated several centuries ago by incanpids of Polynesian sailors, coming from the islands of the Society, she would have been a bridge head for the conquest of Rapa Nui and New Zealand.The archeological remains include the "Pa" fortresses, related to those of the Maori of the island in the long sky (New Zealand), which is also found at its large and distant sister (about 4,000 km). These fortifications, built at the top of the mountains, served to defend the different kingdoms of each other.The best preserved, Morongo Uta, between the Haurei and Hiri bays, is a fortress of 300 m circumference, surrounded by deep ditches and surmounted by a double tower of pyramid guet. Indeed, Rapa at the time was highly populated, too even, leading to perpetual wars for the territory.The first European to discover the island was George Vancouver, on December 22, 1791 at dawn. In his 1798 travel story, he commented on his first meeting with the indigenous people: " Relations with the native people approaching a canoe are without history. " They express fear, astonishment and admiration. They're naked, without tattoo, with short hair. They seem well fed, open and gay. They now offer nacre hooks and other objects related to fishing. They willingly give up their lances, puzzles and frontlines. " At the time cannibalism was natural and widespread, the island had about 3,000 souls. " As Jean Guillin says, "if they manage to take a leader or king of a tribe, they will cut it into pieces and devit it." Then they were going to yell at his tribe: " Your king is killed, we ate it. " " "Without great economic or strategic interest, it was ignored until 1816, and the European presence brought its share of diseases on Rapa, which brought it back into the common history of the other Pacific islands. There were 2,000 people in 1816, 500 in 1838, 150 in 1864.Rapa also suffered the deportation of a large number of its inhabitants during the arrival of Peru's slave ships, which sent them to work on the islands in Guano off Peru. After an epic episode, where the islanders took a boat and rallied Tahiti to ask for help to the French, the Peruvians were forced to bring home 300 Polynesians. Unfortunately, most people will die on the journey, with others returning a smallpox epidemic that kept the population on Rapa. Some people survived, but the secular science and traditions of this people were lost forever. The island now has 507 inhabitants (census 2017).The island without spindleIn the tropic of Capricorn, Proudly rises Rapa, the last of the Australes Islands, 1,420 km southeast of Tahiti and 500 km from Raivavae. 9 km over 8 km: the island is small and consists of one volcano, the crater being placed at the great bay of Ahurei, plunging into the center of the island. The topped terrain offers surprising reliefs and sharp peaks.The peak point, Mount Perehau (650 m), is closely followed by Mount Pukumaru (605 m) and a succession of high rocks with magnificent panoramic views of the island valleys.The coast, very cut and directly subjected to the assaults of the wind, is stuffed with deep bays and coves, alternating with the rocky points. Indeed, Rapa does not have a protective coral reef. The temperature can go down to 5 ° C in July, and coconut trees do not grow there. On the other hand, it is the only island of Polynesia where the fruits of temperate regions are cultivated: apples, peaches, pears, figs… but also radis, celery, artichokes, tobacco, vineyards, apricots, peaches or green beans.Rapa has a thousand other products of nature to discover. In addition to familiar tropical fruits such as bananas, mangoes, papayas and passion fruits, there are excellent oranges, delicious coffee, and the many varieties of Taro-specific taro, and other tubers like Tarua or Aki. The daily food of a Rapa family includes fresh salmon, mussels, oysters, crab, sea biches (Japanese prized), shrimp, urchins, lobster, goat meat and wild beef. For dessert, the children taste the mangu, the pink flower with sweet taste, like a candy for the toddlers.TransportWild paradise, Rapa deserves! The road is long: There is only one boat every two months, remaining at a dock only one day! As Rapa is a French military area, the stopover is limited to a few days, the time to make the necessary provisions for the continuation of the journey. Unless you have his own boat (and still), the adventure is difficult.A special authorization is required for an extended stay, you will need a lodging certificate from the Rapa City Hall, to be presented at the administrative subdivision of the Australes Islands in Papeete.PracticeThe island's 507 souls live in two villages, separated by the bay of Ahurei, which must be crossed in canoe, because the island does not count a road.