Monuments to visit Petra

How to get there. The main path starts from the Basin restaurant. It takes 850 steps and 45 minutes (minimum) to reach the top. You can make the ascent by donkey for 15 DJ (to be negotiated). There is another less arduous, but longer path (which can be done via the Back Door Trail).

Visit. With its 47 m high and 48 m wide façade, the Monastery is the most imposing of all the monuments of the ancient city. Its deep resemblance with the Treasury is obvious, even if its ornamentation remains more sober. One is quickly astonished to discover the excellent state of conservation of the monument, in spite of the intense erosion at the origin of the deterioration of many of the tombs of the city. It is however not protected by any mountainside. Contrary to the long held idea, it is not a royal mausoleum, since no tomb has been found. It is rather a vast temple dedicated to the practice of ritual banquets in honor of Obodas II, a Nabataean monarch who reigned from 30 BC to 9 BC and was deified after his death. An inscription found not far from the monastery calls for "remembering Ubaydu son of Waqihel and his associates for the symposium of Obodas the God". A symposium, in ancient Greece, was a banquet given after a meal, accompanied by dancing and singing.

The monastery dates back to the middle of the first century. It takes its name from the Byzantine period when it was probably used as a monastery, and most certainly as a church, as the crosses drawn on the back wall testify. Carved in yellow sandstone, its first level is punctuated by eight pilasters finished with Nabatean capitals with horns for some, of Ionic inspiration for others. An imposing entrance as well as two windows in trompe l'oeil appear between them. The second level is surmounted by a pediment broken by an imposing tholos, a circular temple, framed on each side by two pavilions. Niches have been dug between the pilasters of these three elements. The tholos has at its top an impressive urn of approximately 9 meters in height, visible for miles around.

To the left of the building, a staircase cut in the rock climbs up to a platform where an altar was installed. The staircase continued beyond, to the top of the Monastery, but it was closed by the authorities after the accidental death of a tourist. Prefer the late afternoon light for beautiful photos, but leave in time to get back to the remote entrance of the site.

How to get there. Follow the path from the Visitor Center for 1 kilometer, through the canyon.

Visit. After walking through the Siq and admiring its betyls, its ingenious canalization system and its impressive cliffs, the Siq narrows one last time to reveal only a fragment of the jewel of Petra between the cursive lines of its walls. Hidden in a protected clearing of the Siq, the Khazneh al-Fira'un or Treasure of the Pharaohs is revealed only at the last moment. It is for many visitors the most exceptional monument of the ancient Nabatean capital, the one that motivated their trip to Jordan. The delicacy of its facade, the changing color of its sandstone, the softness of its curves refined by erosion make this building a marvel to contemplate without ever getting tired of it. But we have to be honest, the horde of tourists with tripods and selfie poles, the Bedouins, the dromedaries or the donkeys are detracting from the serenity of the experience.

Myths and legends. Despite the passion it arouses, the Treasure has not finished delivering its mysteries. To this day, archaeologists have not succeeded in finding the reasons for its construction, and the legends surrounding it are numerous. The Treasure takes its name from a Bedouin legend which tells that a pharaoh would have hidden his treasure in the urn topping the rotunda with columns at the top of the building. Researchers tried to prove this, but soon realized that the urn was not hollow and could not contain anything. It seems, however, that the Bedouins believed in it because they kept shooting at the urn with their rifles, as attested by the bullet holes, in order to extract some small booty from it. In view of the majesty of the building and the choice of the place, the specialists agree rather on the fact that it had to be a royal tomb. The wealthy classes of the Nabataean kingdom, and even more so the king himself, were aware of the architectural fashions of the Mediterranean metropolises and knew as well as anyone how to impress high-ranking visitors. Architectural elements inspired by the Ptolemaic style indicate that the Treasury would have been built during the second half of the reign of Aretas IV (9 BC to 40). But for whom? No one knows. No remains have been found inside the tomb. Important excavations carried out in the square in 2003 have brought to light more ancient tombs, one of which could be dated to around 20 B.C. These tombs are deeply buried in the ground or have been partially covered by the construction of the Treasury. Originally, the square in front of the tomb was 6 meters below the present level. It was paved and may have included a pool or fountain. A monumental staircase, 13 meters long, gave access to the ancient tombs and then to the terrace of the Treasury. Today, it allows you to descend into the tombs. The tombs, like the interior of the Treasury, are not open to the public.

Architecture. Like all Nabataean temples and tombs carved in rock, the Treasury of Petra was cleared starting from the top. The Nabataeans used this technique to prevent the rock in the upper parts from collapsing under its own weight. They started by clearing a step across the entire width of the building to be constructed, then descended as they went along. One can still see the notches left by the stonecutters to fix their scaffolding. The interior of the tomb was also hollowed out from top to bottom. Once the exterior façade was cleared and the doorway outlined, the workers dug a gallery from the entrance, which they widened as they went along. The influence of Ptolemaic (or Greek) Egypt, and more particularly of Alexandria, is very clear. It can be found in the structure as well as in certain details. Analogies can be found with certain palaces in the north-east of Libya (at the time under the influence of Alexandria), notably in the ornamental choices of the façade or the pediment. The latter, with its lines broken by a tholos, a round temple, was perhaps inspired by a fresco in the Casa del Labirinto in Pompeii, on which a similar element can be seen. The statue of the tholos represents the Egyptian goddess Isis, who was appropriated by the Nabataeans. The two small side temples only show fragments of winged Victories. They have been damaged by erosion, but also by man. The lower level of the tomb shows classical elements of the ancient Greek style. The façade of the building is surmounted by a pediment supported by six columns with Corinthian capitals. In the center of the pediment is a sun disk surrounded by bovine horns and ears of wheat. These are the symbols of the Egyptian goddess Isis. Between the columns, on either side of the entrance, one can see colossal statues of men on horseback, partially erased. They are the Dioscuri, the brothers Castor and Pollux, in charge of guiding the souls of the dead in Greek mythology.

When to go there? Buses start pouring in around 8:00-8:30 am at the Visitor Center. To avoid the traffic jam at the exit of the Siq, leave before. By starting at the opening, you will take pictures of the Treasury without anyone on top. The façade turns pink between 9 and 11 am, depending on the season.

How to get there. There are two ways to reach the High Place of Sacrifice. The first one, arduous, crosses the Wadi Mahafir, then climbs very steeply. It starts from the street of the Facades, just after the toilets on the left and before the theater. It takes about 50 minutes. The second one starts from the Qasr al-Bint and goes around it to the right. This is one of the most beautiful hikes in Petra. The hike takes between 2 and 3 hours. There are some steep parts, but you alternate between sun and shade.

Visit. The High Place of Sacrifice is located at the top of Jebel al-Madhbah, at an altitude of over 1,000 meters. From here, the views of Jebel Haroun (Mount Aaron) and Petra are spectacular. There were several "high places" in Petra, all of them open-air, spread over the heights of the city, perhaps according to a tribal code. At the end of the path, there is a first esplanade where two tapered obelisks, each 7 meters high, stand. At first, archaeologists gave them a religious meaning, thinking that they were the two main Nabatean gods Dushara and Al-Uzza. But the inscription zibb atuf left by one of the sculptors sows doubt. Indeed, it means "the penis of Atouf". On the other hand, the path of Wadi Mahafir does not have any votive niche or divine representation. The path that leads to the High Place of Sacrifice starts from this esplanade, through the quarry and between the remains of the high walls that may have formed a monumental gateway to the sacrificial place; on the right coming from the Street of Facades or on the left coming from Qasr al-Bint. The High Place of Sacrifice occupies an esplanade 65 meters long. The cultic rites were probably dedicated to the god Dushara, the most important of the Nabataean pantheon. Banquets were held on the platform in front of the altar. The participants sat on the stone benches that mark its perimeter. You will notice in the upper left corner (back to the altar), a groove that allowed water to flow out. The altar consists of a raised platform that housed betyls, preceded by a few steps. The priest stood at the top of the steps to make the incense offerings. A walkway allows one to go around the altar. The rock to the left of the altar was probably an altar of libation. It was probably hollowed out to store water for ablutions. A hole was made in the disc on the platform and a drain allowed the liquids to flow out.

How to get there. In the Rue des Façades, on the left.

Visit. Built at the very beginning of the 1st century, under the reign of Aretas IV, the theatre was directly carved in stone. Located in the heart of the necropolis, it shows that life in Petra was not limited to the worship of the gods or the dead. The hemicycle could originally accommodate 4,000 spectators. It was enlarged upwards by the Romans, who doubled its capacity. In the process, they cut out tombs, as shown by the gaping openings left on the back wall. The cavea (the tiers) faced east and was divided into three series of benches. The most important people sat in the lower part while the ordinary citizen took possession of the upper tiers. Only a few elements of the stage remain and it has been partly rebuilt. It had three entrances, one of which was in the middle and was reserved for the king (during political meetings) or the main actor (during cultural performances). The backdrop of the stage included columns (four remain), balconies and sculptures. Fragments of statues of the Greek gods Heracles, Hermes and Aphrodite were found during excavations at the site. The stage was separated from the audience by the orchestra, which sat on the terrace at the foot of the cavea. The structure is based on the elements of classical Roman theatres, but the drainage systems and masonry techniques are specific to Nabataean architecture.

How to get there. Going down the Cardo maximus, on the left, just before the remains of Hadrian's Gate.

Visit. The ruins of this huge building erected on three levels cover an area of 7,560 sqm. For a long time, archaeologists thought that it was a temple. But constant research suggests that it was more of a huge reception hall. On the other hand, it seems that it was not attached to the royal palace, whose traces are still being sought. The residential area is not large enough to have been a palace and no practical building (kitchen, stables ...) has been found nearby. The remains continue to be called the "great temple" while waiting for something better.

The building was built over several centuries. It is located on a succession of rocky plateaus that the Nabataeans gradually cleared by cutting stones used for other constructions. The first part of the temple was built on the highest platform at the end of the 1st century BC. The 700-seat amphitheatre that partly occupies it was added by the Romans in the 2nd century. It probably served as a municipal assembly.

The temple was enlarged and richly decorated with stucco, frescoes and mosaics around 1950. It is the large platform lined with columns, whose capitals represented Asian elephants. Each of the 536 elephant heads was covered with a thin layer of plaster and no two were identical. It can therefore be assumed that the craftsmen had seen such animals. The pavement and colonnades of the western flank have collapsed. They reveal a double vaulted corridor that supported the structure above. The colonnades are still clearly visible on the east side. The Nabataean king Aretas IV (9 B.C.E. -40 A.D.) had sumptuous gardens laid out on the platform along the east side, punctuated by pools. They were supplied with water by a drainage system running under the colonnades and the central platform. The Romans added baths to the west of the great temple. They are accessed by a stairway on the other side of the collapsed colonnade.

The "great temple" was separated from the street by a propylaeum, a high façade running 55 meters (131 feet) and pierced in its center to allow passage of a monumental staircase leading to the temenos. Small rooms had been set up east of the central door, along the staircase. They were isolated from the street by a door.

Getting there. About 400 meters after the Visitors' Center, on the right side of the main road, before entering the Siq.

Visit. Three monumental boulders carved into the rock seem to stand guard along the path. They are commonly called "blocks of the Djinns", a name left by the Bedouins. They believed that these stone towers served as a place of residence for evil spirits. The blocks are carved on all four sides and pierced with burial chambers. While it is impossible to date them precisely, they may be the oldest tombs in Petra, dating back to the third or second century B.C. There are three more such blocks that you will see as you continue along the path, the last of which is on the right, above the dry riverbed before entering the Siq. The blocks rise between 6 and 8 meters above the ground and their appearance has been modified in later periods.

The entrance to the first monolith is partially obstructed by a deposit of sand and gravel deposited during floods. The foot of the block and its cavity were originally two meters lower. One can still admire the corbelling in triangles which goes around the block on its high part. The base of the boulder to the right of the entrance was cut into two superimposed gullies. They allowed rainwater to flow to the site of Petra or to cisterns that were on the way. A small rock between the Djinns' block and the rock has an opening. Underneath was a cistern.

The second block is positioned on a triple platform that was also cut. The access to the chamber is through an entrance pierced to the east. It contains two tombs. The small platform that tops the block was probably carved at a later period, which would explain the absence of the frieze usually present on Nabatean tombs.

The third block is much more elaborate. Its sides are decorated with pilasters that were once decorated with capitals. The entablature above bears stone chisel marks, which suggest that the traditional corbelling was erased at a later period. During excavations in the 1970s, archaeologists were surprised to find pipe debris in place of bones and personal effects. It is quite possible that this tomb was used as a cistern in the Byzantine period. This would explain why the Bedouins also call these blocks as-Sahrij, which means "cistern" in Arabic.

The street of the Colonnades ends with a monumental gate, delimiting the temenos or "sacred enclosure" from the profane part of the city. This triple-arched gate allowed the passage of carts in its center, and pedestrians on each side. The arches were equipped with wooden doors that were folded back into the niches inside the pillars. Some of the decorative friezes can still be seen coming from the city. The stone blocks were carved with floral or geometric motifs framing portraits of deities.

How to get there. At the beginning of the street of the Colonnades, on the left of the "Great Temple".

Visit. There is not much left of this market which had a very important function in the Nabatean capital. It was the market that ensured the wealth of the capital for several centuries. Petra was an almost unavoidable commercial center, at the crossroads of a dense network of caravan trails. Trading and stalls were held along the street to which the Romans added the columns. The upper terrace was a garden adjacent to the "Great Temple".

How to get there. The Qasr al-Bint is located at the end of the Rue des Colonnades, after Hadrian's Arch, on the left.

Visit. Mostly in ruins, the Qasr al-Bint is nevertheless the only building still standing in Petra. Its imposing walls, 24 meters high and 27 meters wide, hint at the splendor of the city at its peak. It would have been built during the reign of Aretas IV (9 BC - 40) just like the Treasury. Its full name, Qasr al-Bint Fa'run, means in Arabic "The castle of the Pharaoh's daughter". It is the name chosen by the Bedouins in reference to the so-called pharaoh (and his putative daughter) who had the Treasury built to hide his wealth. It is actually a temple, probably dedicated to Dushara. Excavations around the site have revealed the remains of the oldest foundations of Raqmu (the Nabataean name for Petra) and it is likely that the natural platform on which the Qasr al-Bint was erected was already used as a place of worship

The altar. The temenos includes a huge altar positioned in front of the temple. It consists of a platform of 13.5 x 12 m raised 3 meters above the ground. It was probably a sacrificial altar in the Nabatean period. The Romans added an apsidal temple next to it. Its outer wall was protected by a gallery of columns. Inside, it housed statues of Marcus Aurelius and Lucius Verus who ruled the Roman Empire between 161 and 169. The inauguration of this temple took place between 165 and 169. It is there that French archaeologists found the head of the marble statue representing Marcus Aurelius.

The temple of Dushara. The building mixes Greco-Roman and Nabatean styles. The façade is a Greek tetrastyle, that is to say 4 columns erected in front of the entrance and supporting a triangular pediment. The wide staircase and the raised podium on which the temple was built are typical of Roman architecture. The decorative elements with geometrical patterns made of stucco were characteristic of the Nabataean style. A monumental staircase that only the priests could use led to the temple. They entered the sanctuary through a monumental door. The small room against the back wall contained a betyl, a stone symbolizing the divine presence. Two halls, on either side of the central courtyard, were perhaps used for ritual banquets. Each had a staircase leading to the upper floor and then to the roof where incense offerings and other religious rituals were held.

How to get there. On the hill in front of the "Great Temple", below the Byzantine church.

Visit. The earthquake of 363 destroyed this complex which included a temple and infrastructures related to the practice of worship. The temple takes its name from the capitals adorning its columns, representing winged lions. Excavations undertaken here between 1974 and 2005 have found objects of worship dedicated to the goddess Hayyan, also known as Al-Uzza. This was the most revered female deity in Petra. The temple was probably completed around 25, when Petra was at its peak. It was accessed from the main street by a bridge that spanned the Wadi Musa and entered a propylaeum, a monumental staircase framed by high walls and columns. The sanctuary consisted of a raised platform in the center of which was placed a betylus. The niche was encircled by 12 columns with capitals decorated with winged lions. They served as sacred guards, capable of warding off spells. The columns were positioned so as to form an ambulatory path around the niche. A liwan, or vaulted terrace, was uncovered to the southwest of the temple, with arches once rising 5.75 m above the ground. The rooms uncovered to the north of this terrace probably served as residences for the priests as well as workshops for the making of cult objects. A project to safeguard and develop the site, including the Bedouin, was set up in 2009.

Following the main road after the nabatéen theatre, the left remains the small remains of this fountain, probably dating from the th century. At that time, it was abreuvée by the waters of Wadi Musa, routed through the pipes, and probably supplied water to a good part of the city.

Access to it. Continuing along the Siq, just past the Treasury, the gorge, narrow at first, widens and descends toward the center of the ancient city. It leads to the royal tombs (on the right) and to the Street of Colonnades (on the left).

Visit. The street starts on the right of the Treasury. The high walls of pink sandstone open in a V shape to the Petra cirque. They are crossed by about forty tombs, sometimes dug and sculpted on several levels. Some of these tombs are reworked natural caves that were used as troglodytic dwellings during the Assyrian period, i.e. in the 2nd millennium BC.

The Triclinium. Immediately on the right, at the beginning of the Rue des Façades, a large rectangular opening in the rock catches the eye. One can still make out the staircase (forbidden access) that allowed to reach the entrance of what is the largest triclinium in Petra. The exceptionally large 12 x 12 meter chamber was probably used as a reception hall during ceremonies in honor of the deceased of El Khazneh. But this is only a guess.

The collapsed tomb. A little further to the left, one can see the remains of a façade that collapsed in 1847. Partial excavations had revealed an inscription in Greek mentioning a certain Arrianos of Petra "dragged by Hades at the age of 27" as a result of an illness. All that can be seen today is a piece of frieze alternating rhombuses and circles and a pilaster with a Nabataean capital. The tomb dates from after the Nabataean occupation of Petra and would have been carved between the 3rd and^5th centuries.

The Street of Facades. As the Siq widens and forms a recess on the left side, one can admire a line of high carved facades. These tombs, with ornamentation heavily damaged by erosion, date from the late 1st century BC and the first half of the 1st century. These façades were probably covered with a thin layer of painted plaster. The first tomb on the left is representative of the Hegira style found in Mada'in Salih in Saudi Arabia. It is distinguished by a stepped frieze on the upper part, a cornice supported by pilasters that frame a door surmounted by a triangular pediment. This tomb has a unique feature with a funerary chamber installed high up. As you continue, you will notice the tomb cleared from the main rock and carved on 3 sides. The staircase frieze at the top has been replaced by a crenellated crown, which suggests that the tomb has been reworked. Behind this tomb, still on the same side of the rock face, the upper frieze of a tomb can be seen, at ground level. It is not known whether the alluvium brought by the recurrent floods covered the entrance to this tomb or whether it was an unfinished project.

Tomb 825. On the other side of the Siq, on the right as you descend to the center of the ancient city, opposite the café-restaurant. From this tomb, located in the corner, one can clearly see the figurative elements of the "hegra" type tombs. The high frieze with a double staircase of five steps rests on a cornice. An attic separates it from the entablature framed by two pilasters. Only the right pilaster remains, with a Nabataean capital. The one on the left had been embedded in the structure, the rock being too friable at this point to allow it to be carved on the façade. The entrance to the tomb is framed by two pilasters and surmounted by a slightly overhanging triangular pediment. In the doorway, on the right-hand side, one can see a nefesh, a graffiti in the shape of an obelisk, to which two petals and a triangle have been added at the top. The name of the deceased was usually written in the cartouche at the bottom of the nefesh. Five other nefashot were found inside the burial chamber attributing the tomb to the family of Zayd Qawmw bin Yaqum. The tomb has 14 graves.

Tomb of Aneishu. Going around the projecting tomb, still on the right side of the Siq, one comes across a series of caves with barely worked and very eroded facades. Above and set back from these is the tomb of Aneishu. The man was a high dignitary of the Nabataean kingdom, probably a minister of Queen Shuqailat II during the regency period from 70 to 76. An inscription attesting to this was found on the slab that closed the tomb. The 20 x 12 meter façade is typical of the "hegra" style. The Nabatean capitals in the form of half-crowns are clearly visible. The door frame is decorated with pilasters and a pediment resting on a discreet attic. The burial chamber consists of a square room measuring nearly 8 x 8 meters. Loculi were built into the back wall and those on the side. Each of these 11 lodges contained a tomb. A final tomb was dug outside, high up on the right wall. At the bottom right of this tomb, one can see a deep pyramid-shaped cut in the rock. It is possible that a nefesh was placed there. A triclinium was dug into the mountain to the left of the façade. One can still see the tank to the left of the entrance (next to the staircase) where water for ablutions was stored. The back wall of the triclinium was also provided with three loculi used to house tombs.

How to get there. The hiking trail starts from Qasr al-Bint, on the right, and goes around it from the back, then climbs towards the southeast.

Visit. The High-Place of Sacrifice Trail leads up Wadi Farasa to the High-Place of Sacrifice. It is punctuated by ancient tombs, in a setting as stunning as ever, alternating sun and shade. It takes between 2 hours 30 and 3 hours of visit, with some difficult passages. If you are not afraid of heights, you can return to Wadi Musa at the foot of the amphitheater. If not, you will have to count 2 hours by turning back to the treasure.

The staircase tombs of the jebel al-Madhbah. A dozen tombs of the "hegra" type with the upper attic with double stairs were carved on the northern point of the jebel al-Madhbah. This is where the original path to the High Place of Sacrifice started. Rockslides caused by the earthquake of 363 blocked the access. From here you have a beautiful view of the Royal Tombs.

The collapsed fronton. About 100 m after the path started to go along the mountain. A "hegra" type pediment lies wobbly on the left of the path. To the right, you can see a tomb without a façade in which three loculi have been built.

The Tomb with broken pediment. About 70 m after the collapsed pediment, on the left. This tomb, raised on a podium and preceded by a staircase cut into the rock, is a fine example of a broken pediment. This popular element of Ptolemaic architecture from Alexandria was adopted by the Nabataeans at the expense of the "hegra" style. The pediment rests on a cornice, but it lacks its central point. A window opened above the door, a lintel separating the two, while two vertical slits pierced between the semi-columns let in light. A burial chamber was added to the right of the main tomb.

The Renaissance Tomb. The doorway of this beautiful, slender façade is crowned by a circular pediment, a popular feature of European architecture during the Renaissance period. No entablature or tympanum is inserted in the arch. Instead, the arch is crowned with urns at its lowest and highest points. The lower entablature is traversed by two high semi-columns with Nabatean capitals. A triangular pediment caps the whole, decorated with an urn at each corner. The difference in level in front of the entrance shows that the tomb is unfinished. Fourteen tombs were uncovered during the 2003 excavations, at least twelve of which date from the Nabataean period.

The Soldier's Tomb. At the top of the stairs, after the Renaissance Tomb. This tomb belonged to an imposing complex that required the widening of the canyon by several meters. It was accessed through a hall leading to a peristyle lined with porticoes on three of its sides. This courtyard with columns allowed access to the tomb on one side and to the triclinium on the other. On the right of the tomb stood a two-story building, some of whose rooms were heated. This was the entrance hall to the complex. It was richly decorated with painted plasterwork and patterns carved into the floor. The façade is entirely carved in the rock, except for the three statues inserted in the niches. The central niche housed the representation of the deceased recipient of the tomb, the one who was honored during the celebrations taking place in the triclinium. The statue represents a man covered with a cuirass, as worn by Nabatean soldiers. Although the façade is very eroded, the triglyph-metaphor frieze and the pediment over the entrance are still clearly visible. One can also see two windows on either side of the façade, which provided light for the interior of the tomb. The soldier was probably buried in the central loculus located high up. Excavations have made it possible to date the tomb between 50 and 75. The triclinium is one of the most beautiful in Petra. Three doors allowed to enter the banqueting hall. The benches were carved into the stone, starting from the ground, away from the walls.

The Triclinium of the Garden. After the Tomb of the Soldier, at the top of the steps on the left. The building with its columned porch rests on a stone terrace. Archaeologists thought at first that it was a tomb, then a temple. But in the absence of evidence, they now opt for a dwelling. The building consists of two adjoining rooms, and it is likely that it had a second floor that was accessed from the outside. On the right side of the building is an 8-meter high brick wall. It is one of the largest reservoirs in Petra, possibly connected with the Soldier's Tomb.

The Lion Fountain. This monumental sculpture carved in the rock overhung a basin. The erosion and the damage caused by the earthquakes hardly allow to distinguish the lion. If the body and the 4 legs are well visible, the head turned towards you is hardly noticeable. A pipe whose mouth can be seen above what was the head carried water via an aqueduct from the south of the city.

Access to it. The royal tombs overlook the circus of Wadi Musa. A staircase leads off to the right, after the amphitheater.

Visit. On the western slope of the jebel Al-Khubtha stand the most beautiful and majestic tombs of the ancient city. This is why they have been called "royal tombs". In the Nabatean period, the higher the rank, the larger and more ornate the tomb ordered. However, there is no archaeological evidence or inscription to link a tomb to a particular king. Surveying the ruins of these tombs offers as a reward, once again, splendid views of the Wadi Musa cirque and its encircling jebels. It takes about an hour and a half to walk to the tomb of Sextius Florentinus and back. The Al-Khabtha Trail hikes along the tombs before entering the mountain. For a nice photo of the alignment, you should face it at the end of the day.

The Tomb of the Urn. This tomb with its impressive 26 meter high façade is distinguished by its unique characteristics. It is easily recognizable by the urn (very eroded) that tops its pediment and the two floors of vaulted cells under its esplanade. The use of these rooms is not known. The study of the bricks that make up the structure suggests that the building was built at the same time as the façade was carved. The staircase leading to the tomb passes in front of it and opens onto a vast platform bordered by a portico. Only the columns on the left side remain, those on the right having been destroyed by an earthquake. From the esplanade, the view on the ancient city and the jebels is spectacular. The façade has characteristic elements of the Nabataean style, such as the semi-columns and pilasters breaking the entablature, a cornice (very degraded), a triangular pediment and a doorway with pilasters, a frieze with triglyphs-metopes and a triangular pediment. More unusual are the frieze of the attic made of busts in relief (perhaps of deities) or the three loculi placed high up. The window above the door is an addition of the Byzantines who had transformed this tomb into a church. This allowed light to enter. Just above the central loculus, there is a bas-relief of a reclining man whose head is missing. This is probably the dignitary who had the tomb built. The interior of the tomb houses a large room measuring 19 x 17 meters, the ceiling of which reveals sandstone volutes ranging from white to red. The three niches on the back wall were transformed into apses by the Byzantines. They were originally rectangular. Only two tombs have been discovered here: one on the right and the second in the right niche.

The Silk Tomb. Probably not the most impressive of the royal tombs, nor the best preserved, the Silk Tomb takes its name from the eroded stone that seems to adorn the facade with moire. It is the second tomb after the Tomb of the Urn. This rather simple, and perhaps unfinished, tomb has the attributes of the "hegra" tombs. The façade is covered with semi-columns and pilasters supporting a wide entablature. Above the cornice, the pediment is sculpted with a frieze of two staircases facing each other. On the other hand, the entrance has no particular ornament. It is surmounted by a loculus. The most experienced eyes will notice a tiny bas-relief carved in the slope on the left of the temple, at the height of the pediment's stairs. It depicts a deity standing on a pedestal, perhaps Dushara, the most revered god in Petra. The craftsmen would have carved it during the work on the tomb, in order to ensure divine protection.

The Corinthian Tomb. This tomb located on the right of the unmistakable Palace Tomb is dated between 40 and 70. It is very obviously inspired by Al-Khazneh. The tomb was so named by Leon de Laborde because of the Corinthian style capitals that adorn the semi-columns and pilasters of the façade. Unfortunately, the wide 27-meter façade suffered greatly from erosion and the earthquake of 363. It was "cut" into three parts. The lower part has 8 semi-columns, of which the two framing the main door were crowned by a circular pediment. The middle part, very damaged, was decorated with 8 mini-pilasters sculpted in the alignment of the semi-columns and a broken triangular pediment. The upper part undoubtedly paid tribute to the Treasury, with its central tholos (circular temple) framed by two niches supported by columns with capitals. These two temples served as a base for the broken pediment. The urn topping the tholos is missing. But the most surprising thing here is the asymmetry of the façade. To the left of the main entrance (the gaping hole), three entrances have been pierced between the columns. The two small entrances on the left side of the building were decorated with a pediment, one circular and the other triangular. On the right side, however, the gap between the semi-columns is pierced by windows of different sizes. At the foot of the tomb, four basins carved in the rock can be seen, which were probably used for ablutions.

The Palace Tomb. This tomb impresses by its unusual dimensions and the abundance of its architecture, which is still perceptible despite the ravages of the climate and geological conditions. With its 49 meters wide and 46 meters high, it is one of the most imposing monuments in Petra. The façade is cut horizontally into three segments, the highest part of which is not carved in the rock, but made of bricks resting on vaulted cellars and wooden beams. The tomb included two other segments that collapsed during successive earthquakes. What remains of the facade is punctuated by a set of semi-columns, pilasters, pediments, entablatures and cornices forming a harmonious and impressive whole. The Tomb Palace takes its name from its splendid façade, but also because archaeologists assume that it is at the foot of it that the royal residence of Petra was built. The small hill at the confluence of Wadi Musa and Wadi al-Mataha reveals foundations, artificial earthworks and numerous drains. The Tomb Palace would have been attached directly to the royal quarters, as was the case in the royal cities of the Greek Empire in antiquity.

The lower segment of the Palace Tomb is punctuated by 12 semi-columns. The 4 highest ones support the upper entablature while the other 8 frame the doors surmounted by decorated entablatures and pediments. The pediments of the outer doors are circular, while those of the central doors are triangular. The doors were each preceded by a flight of steps adding majesty to the building. Each of the doors gives access to a burial chamber, the two in the center being connected by a narrow corridor. The second segment is punctuated by 18 semi-columns with capitals in the Ionic style. You will notice that the spacing between the columns is not identical, and that a wider gap has been left between the columns in the center of the façade. Six niches have been dug between some of the columns, without respecting the symmetry. They were probably intended to house memorial plaques. The leftmost opening is in fact a passage that allowed access to the cliff above the tomb and was also equipped with a clever drainage system for rainwater. The third segment also had 18 short pilasters, aligned with those of the lower segment. One can see the masonry bricks that structured the segment and those above, and supported the cut sandstone blocks of the façade. The fourth and fifth segments are only visible on the right side of the building. The fourth entablature, like the third, was not very high and was punctuated by short pilasters. The fifth segment was built backwards. If you stand on the left side of the building, you can see the return of the façade. The architectural ingenuity is revealed halfway up the second entablature (the one with the Ionic capital columns). You can clearly see the vaulted support and the bricks that were used to build the upper floors.

The Tomb of Sextius Florentinus. It is necessary to continue for 250 meters after the Palace Tomb, still following the path of Al-Khubtha which runs along the rock face and up the Wadi al-Mataha. Few tourists venture here and the Tomb of Sextius Florentinus seems quite isolated in this wild mountain area. It is in the light of the end of the day that one can best appreciate its relatively degraded façade. This tomb is the only one that can be dated with certainty and it is also the last to have been built in Petra. An inscription in Latin indicates that this tomb was erected for Titus Aninius Sextius Florentinus by his son Lucius. Sextius Florentinus was the Roman legate of the Arabian Province. He had been appointed in 127, and if the date of his death does not appear in any text, the name of his successor is mentioned from 130. The tomb therefore dates from 129 or 130. Its off-center location is explained by the fact that the Romans had forbidden burials in Petra. Consequently, discretion was the order of the day.

The facade, although badly eroded, is strongly inspired by the Nabataean style, but includes many architectural elements characteristic of ancient Rome. The tomb rests on a podium interrupted by the entrance whose opening descends to the rocky plateau. The lower entablature is punctuated by semi-columns and pilasters with capitals in the Nabataean style. The entrance door is surmounted by a triangular pediment, itself topped by a short pilaster. The columns and pilasters support an attic. The upper entablature is more complex than those of the Nabatean tombs. The cornice opens into a circular pediment decorated with a tympanum, while the entablature is punctuated vertically by four pilasters with Nabataean capitals. The circular pediment is topped by an eagle with outstretched wings similar to the one found on the bas-relief of the Nabataean temple of Khirbet et-Tannur, now exhibited at the Jordan Museum in Amman. The tympanum shows a woman surrounded by vines, which may be a copy of the one in the Treasury. The third entablature supports the triangular pediment of the building, the tympanum of which is badly damaged and cannot be deciphered. It was surmounted by an urn similar to that of the Tomb of the Urn. Inside, 5 loculi were built against the back wall as well as 3 burial chambers in the right part of the tomb.

To get there. After 10 minutes of climbing, at the beginning of the stairs to Ad-Deir (the Monastery), on the left.

Visit. This discreet but elegant triclinium dates back to the middle of the first century. It is easily recognizable by its keyhole door and the two lions sculpted on the bottom of the doorframe. The lions, now very eroded, face each other with their paws raised. The doorway is characteristic of the Ptolemaic style of Alexandria with its triglyph-metaphor frieze. Women's faces are sculpted in the medallions of the metope, which are rather well preserved. They could represent the nymphs of the vine, personalities that can be found on the Treasury or the Tomb of Sextius Florentinus (in the Royal Tombs). The pediment of the door was decorated with three unes, one at each corner. Only the one in the center is still visible. On the left of the door, you will notice a small platform resembling an altar, with a betylus in relief. It was a niche, the upper part of which has collapsed, housing the symbol of the divine presence. Inside the cave, three benches were cut out of the stone to accommodate the participants in the banquets honoring the dead, as well as a niche on the back wall. The triclinium was probably attached to the two tombs on its left. The scarcely decorated façades and the simplicity of the ornaments suggest that it was a small necropolis for a tribe or clan rather than a tomb for a personality.

How to get there. At the beginning of the Rue des Colonnes, under the big tree on the right, just before the bridge that spans the Wadi Musa and allows access to the Byzantine church.

Visit. This large public fountain dates back to the beginning of the 2nd century and to the Roman period. It allowed the inhabitants to get water. There is not much left of it. Only the foundations and the base are still visible today. But you can easily imagine by its dimensions that it must have been imposing. You will have a better idea if you have visited Amman or Jerash before.

How to get there. Bab As-Siq is the portion of Wadi Musa that runs from the Visitors' Center to the entrance of the Siq.

Visit. The temptation is great to go down the Bab As-Siq to reach the Siq and the Treasury as quickly as possible. This wide sandy canyon slopes gently down to the ancient city of Petra, forming a natural bed for an ephemeral river during the rainy season. Its beige sandstone walls have some interesting relics that start with the Djinn Blocks. We recommend that you make stops at the beginning of your visit, as you will be exhausted on your return and much less receptive.

The Snake Tomb. Shortly after the Djinns' Blocks, on the left. Few visitors step over the horse track and dry river bed to see this small tomb. It is hidden inside a large boulder that you can see from the recent staircase built to access the tomb. On the wall of the gallery leading to the entrance, you will notice two nephashot engraved in the stone. They symbolize the spirit of the dead. The tomb is remarkable for its two bas-reliefs. Be careful not to fall into one of the mortuary cavities to admire them on the right wall. The first one represents two snakes attacking a quadruped. They are the guardians of the tombs, charged with repelling evil spirits. The second bas-relief, at the end of the wall, represents a horse carrying a betyl on its back, inspired by the religious processions that took place in the Nabatean period.

The Tomb of the Obelisks. After the Tomb of the Snakes, on the left side of Wadi Musa. Easily recognizable by its "obelisks," this burial complex is unique in Petra. It includes a triclinium on the first floor and a tomb on the upper level. Although very different in style, the two buildings were built in the same period, during the reign of Malichos II (40 - 70), by a certain Abdmanku. As mentioned on the inscription engraved on the rock opposite, the tomb was intended to accommodate the burials of Abdmanku and his descendants until the end of time. The triclinium was a banquet hall, very common in antiquity, with three benches where participants sat. It was used to prepare feasts to honor the dead. The façade of the triclinium has been largely damaged by natural events. Nevertheless, some elements of classical Nabataean architecture can be seen, such as the pilasters and semi-columns topped with horned capitals or the pediments over the entrance and the building. Inside, the room includes the three raised benches that were accessed by steps cut into the corners. The back wall was fitted with two loculi intended to receive the bodies of the deceased. Two tombs were also built outside the triclinium, on the sides. The main tomb, located above the triclinium, is topped by four nephashot, obelisks representing the spirits of the dead. A cartouche inserted between two nephashot seems to represent Abdmanku. The interior of the tomb comprises four tombs, the main one of which is installed under a vast arch cut into the back wall. A circular bench has been carved in the esplanade to the right of the tomb, allowing visitors to perform rituals in honor of the deceased. The basin below is a later addition, perhaps to collect rainwater. A larger cistern was dug to the left of the triclinium, halfway up the hill to the tomb.

Tricliniums of Aslah. On the right bank of Wadi Musa, climb to the plateau just before the bridge that marks the entrance to the Siq. The triclinium complex at Aslah attracts few visitors, as it is hardly visible from the main path. It is, however, the oldest Nabatean work in Petra, dated to 96 BC. A group of rocks was hollowed out to be transformed into tricliniums, the rooms used for banquets to honor the dead. The triclinium of Aslah is the largest of them, located in the center of the small plateau. It is distinguished from the others by its series of 18 votive niches dug into its façade. The rock on the left was the site of a tomb built almost a century later. It probably dates from the end of the first century BC. Inside, each of the walls was provided with a niche. The largest and most elaborate one is on the back wall. At its feet was dug the main tomb. This is preceded by another tomb, which was probably added later. In total, this tomb has 10 graves. They were closed by heavy stone slabs. Excavations carried out between 2010 and 2012 revealed the presence of an ancient brick building erected just in front of the tomb entrance. A few meager pieces of wall can be seen as well as the holes dug for the foundation. The notches in the façade (these are not votive niches) were intended to receive the vaulted arches of the building. Climbing to the top of the rocks of the tricliniums of Aslah, one can see about fifty tombs dug into the ground. It is very likely that these tombs were attached to the triclinium below and were intended to house all the members of the principal's clan. However, none of the tombs stand out from the others and it is not clear which one was intended for the patron.

Access to it. Jebel al-Habis is the small mountain with tombs that overlooks the Qasr al-Bint and the great Roman temple. Take the stairs on the left after the Qasr al-Bint. If you follow the path leading from the back for about 100 meters, and after passing a group of tombs, you will reach another staircase that leads to the top of the mountain.

Visit. At the top of Jebel al-Habis is a sacrificial altar, perched not far from a small triclinium ("dining room"). An ancient Crusader fortress (or rather, the little that remains of it) stands next to it. This fortress, placed on top of a hill, watched over the main communication routes in the area. It was built under the direction of Baldwin I, King of Jerusalem, at the same time as the castles of Shobak and Kerak, both located north of Petra. The castle was equipped with two enclosures protected by rectangular towers. One of them had a keep in its centre. Saladin took possession of it one year after the fall of the holy city of Jerusalem. The 360° view from this place is impressive. Not far from there, towards the north-east, Nabatean steps go down the mountainside. Behind the Qasr al-Bint, at the foot of Al-Habis, you can also see an unfinished tomb and a columbarium. The columbarium contains hundreds of small niches, the use of which remains controversial (some think it was a pigeon house, others that the niches contained funerary urns...).