Things to see and do Azraq

The present castle, made of large blocks of black basalt, was built by the Ayyubids in the 13th century. The site had previously housed Roman garrisons (between 286 and 305) and then Byzantine garrisons, as evidenced by inscriptions here and there. Built on a quadrangular plan, this fortress controlled the Wadi Sirham valley on the trade route between Arabia and Syria, where caravans loaded with goods flowed. The fortress originally had three floors but was largely destroyed by the 1927 earthquake. The fort served as the headquarters of Sherif Hussein of Mecca and Lawrence of Arabia's troops during the Great Revolt. It was from Azraq that the Sheriff undertook his final assault on the city of Damascus, which marked the defeat of the Turks and the end of the First World War in the Middle East.

The tower through which one enters the fortress has several inscriptions in Latin, Greek and Arabic. The room above the southern entrance was that of T.E. Lawrence. The west gate still has its heavy basalt leaves (over 3 tons each) which are still in use. This type of gate is a legacy from Roman times and was frequently used throughout the Byzantine period. In the centre of the fort, the 13th-century mosque, facing Mecca, was built by the Ayyubids, the dynasty founded by Saladin, on the ruins of a Byzantine church. Its fine columns are noteworthy.

What was once a gigantic oasis is no more. It became the main source of water supply for the country's capital and northern cities, and the level of its water tables and marshes has dropped considerably in recent years. The oasis was once home to a vast bird sanctuary with over 280 species of birds. An endemic species of fish populates the ponds: the cynobelia of Azraq. Due to this upheaval, migratory birds have changed their itinerary and many now take refuge in Lake Tiberias, further northwest, on the borders of Lebanon, Syria and Israel. In 1967, a count counted 347,000 birds. In 2000, there were only 1,200 at the same time of year. A 12 km2 reserve, managed by the RSCN, was created to protect what remains. In 1993, the oasis was replenished with water and species were reintroduced. The effects are still minimal and deep pumping continues, not to mention the wild and illegal wells dug by the inhabitants. Only 10% of the oasis has been saved. The Azraq Nature Reserve is nonetheless a pleasant and original stopover in the middle of these desert expanses. The RSCN has gone to great lengths to diversify the activities around the reserve and include the surrounding populations. In addition to hiking trails and bird watching, tours are organized in the surrounding area to meet with local people and visit some of the historical sites left out of the traditional itineraries.

The Visitor Center is open at the same hours as the Reserve. It is here that you can organize your excursions, reserve the services of a guide or pay your entrance fee to the Reserve.

Observable species. Birds from Anatolia, Siberia, Scandinavia or Africa continue to stop for a few months in the Azraq Reserve. We can observe desert sirlis, Cetti's warblers, desert bullfinches, marsh harriers, warblers, avocets, small gravelots or minute sandpipers.

Hiking. Two observation trails have been developed in the Azraq Nature Reserve allowing you to hike while admiring the local wildlife. The 30-minute Marsh Trail winds through the wet and dry areas and leads to an observation platform above the artesian wells that recharged the marshes. Continuing the loop, you pass a basalt wall from the Umayyad period and can stop at a lookout hut. The Water Buffalo Trail takes you in search of buffalo with a guide from the Reserve. It takes 3.5 kilometers and 2 hours of walking on easy terrain. Guide required.

Biking. The RSCN organizes two cycling tours from Azraq Lodge. The Mudflat Cycling Trail follows a 12 kilometer route with little difficulty and lasts 2 to 3 hours. The goal of this tour is to reach Qa'a, a dried mud lake at the gateway to the eastern desert. On the way, the guide will give you explanations about the typical environment of the oasis, its history and the local tribes. Guide required. TheAzraq Village Cycling Trail allows you to ride around the area for 22 kilometers and 4 to 5 hours. It is a continuation of the Muflat Trail and includes visits to an old Druze village, Qasr al-Shaer and Qasr al-Azraq. Guide required.

Bus. The RSCN organizes two minibus tours departing from Azraq Lodge. TheAzraq Bus Tour lasts 2 to 3 hours and is a 7 kilometer circuit. You will have to walk 2 kilometers on easy terrain. It includes a visit to Qasr al-Azraq, a Druze village and Ain es-Sil, a farm from the Umayyad period. TheUsaykhim Bus Tour covers a distance of 40 kilometers and takes 5 to 6 hours. You will have to walk 5 kilometers on easy to moderate terrain. The minibus will take you to Wadi Usaykhim, where you can admire some very old inscriptions. You will then climb to the top of the mountain to visit the fortress of Usaykhim, which marked the northernmost point of the Roman Arabian Province.

Cultural Activities. If you are staying at Azraq Lodge, the RSCN can arrange for a Druze folkloric show with traditional songs and dances. The Druze are a small community in Jordan, numbering only 1 million worldwide. They have played an important role in Levantine history and are known for their esoteric and impenetrable spirituality. Open-air cinema sessions are organized, showing films and documentaries with nature as the main theme. Other activities can be arranged with the Bedouin community in the area. You can learn the subtleties of Turkish coffee, try to bake your own "arbood" bread on the coals, try your hand at milking goats, have a traditional mansaf... The RSCN has also concocted a program allowing you to meet the Chechen community settled in the surroundings. You will be able to put on the heavy traditional costume, including the goat hair chapka, totally inappropriate in these latitudes. The meeting with the Bedouin and Chechen communities is done by bike. Guide required.

North of the village of Ruwaished, the oasis of Burqu appears like a mirage in the middle of the desert. The landscape is revealed in all its splendor at the end of a generous rainy season, when the waters of the lake come to lick the foot of the tower. It is best to hire a guide to get there, as the Iraqi border is very close and the tracks are not marked. The site is worth a visit, but you need to be very motivated: it is too far away to be included in a one-day itinerary on the Desert Castles Route. You will need to bring a tent to stay there.

The oasis is home to many migratory birds that pass through the area, and more and more birders are visiting. A reserve project has been under consideration for many years. The lake is not a natural oasis; it was formed after the Romans built a dam in the third century when they had just built yet another fortress on their eastern defense line. It served to protect the caravan route and the oasis of Burqu, where merchants and their mounts stopped. The place continued to be inhabited, especially during the Byzantine period, when a church was built and inscriptions were left. Rooms were added by the Umayyads under the Emirate of Walid I (705-715). This was one of the first castles to be remodeled by the Umayyads, of which only a part of the tower and the foundations remain visible today.

It is difficult to reach this castle, the most isolated of the desert qasr. It is located on the border between the governorates of Amman and Ma'an, 85 kilometers south of Azraq. Built in 743 by Caliph Walid II for his sons, it is the southernmost Umayyad castle. Despite its impressive dimensions, the work is unfinished. As with the Qasr Mushatta, the assassination of Walid II aborted the completion of the construction work. Originally, the project included two monumental wings with semi-circular towers projected on the facades. Only the west wing seems to have been completed. The castle may have served as a hunting lodge for the sons of Walid II and certainly as a caravanserai for Bedouins transiting from Saudi Arabia to western Iraq or Syria. Like all desert castles, Qasr al-Tuba is located near a water source. A dry wadi lies nearby, and a dam and wells have been discovered at the site.

The western wing of 140 meters by 72 meters is divided into two squares connected by a narrow corridor, which could be closed in case of need. Access to each of the living areas was through a majestic door. One of these was found and is now on display at the Citadel Archaeological Museum in Amman. The building has a vaulted roof. The whole structure is covered with clay bricks, which provided good protection from the sun and heat, but which are not found on any other qasr.

On the road to As-Safawi is this small fort with walls of large black basalt blocks. Located at the top of a hill, it can be spotted from afar and is only accessible by a 4x4 off-road trip. Qasr Aseikhin offers little to see, except a breathtaking view of the surrounding desert plains. No inscriptions have been found on the site, which makes it even more difficult for historians, who nevertheless agree that the fortress was built by the Nabataeans in the first century and then rebuilt by the Romans in the third century, who used it to protect the eastern border of the Empire. The site was later occupied by the Umayyads. But no dating can be established with certainty and archaeologists have not yet taken any real interest in this castle. The problem of bringing fresh water to the site probably explains why this fort did not enjoy the splendor of other castles. The remains of a mosque can still be clearly seen along the eastern wall of the fort. It was accessed through two independent entrances located to the north and east. The foundations of the minaret are also visible. It seems that the mosque has been rebuilt. The large number of stones scattered on the ground suggests that the castle was excavated by looters. Indelicate, they would have even used bulldozers to facilitate their research. Did they find any treasure? History does not say so...

The Romans built this small fort lost in the sands and rocks to ensure their control over the area. Its geographical situation allowed the legions that followed to benefit from a view of the valley, and thus to anticipate possible opposing attacks. Its construction lasted less than a year, and its asymmetrical plan, with its angled entrance, is quite particular. In the^5th century, it was abandoned because of famine. If the whole is rather ruined, there remain inscriptions left by the Romans.