Discover Amman : Neighborhoods

Amman is a sprawling city that can make you lose your nerve if you're wandering around by car without GPS. In this megalopolis, nothing, or almost nothing, is signposted, and street names are very poorly indicated. The city is built on seven hills, each delimiting more or less one district. With the exception of Downtown, walking around the city is pointless, as it is criss-crossed by multi-lane avenues, tunnels and bypasses. Most tourist attractions can be found in or near the Old Town. All around are the residential districts, the most upscale being to the west or south of the city. The Al-Abdali district, to the north, is enjoying a renaissance with the construction of office towers and the installation of luxury hotels. This district is the pride of Ammanis, who see it as the symbol of a modern, economically flourishing city.

The lower city

Downtown is the only part of the city to have retained its typical Middle Eastern character. Be sure to visit the fruit and vegetable market, the many spice stores lining the streets, or stop off at a café, juice bar or restaurant to soak up its authentic atmosphere. The lower town is bustling with hawkers, traders, shoppers, tourists and chaotic traffic. You can stock up on local products such as essences and perfumes, or CDs and DVDs of Arabic music and films. The district forms a giant labyrinth, with small passageways leading to wider streets, staircases creating shortcuts up the surrounding jebels and winding streets. Despite its popular character, the lower town is absolutely safe during the day. Just don't go there in too short or tight-fitting clothes for women (if you want to be left in peace), on Friday afternoons (it's deserted, so there's no point) and don't go alone, especially at night, especially as a cab costs next to nothing.

Jebel Amman and Zahran Street

Overlooking the lower town, Jebel Amman is the hill around which the city grew. In recent years, it has been reinvested by artists and hipsters. This is where you'll find Rainbow Street, the capital's trendiest street, lined with tea rooms and trendy cafés, sophisticated restaurants and fashionable stores. In the evening, the district is frequented by the capital's golden youth, who dine here before going out clubbing, but also by students, artists and young people in search of Western-style venues. People chat, play cards on the terrace or strum a guitar in the small squares. On Fridays in summer, Jebel Amman is also home to the Souk Jara flea market, near the Wild Jordan center. More than 100 stalls sell a variety of goods (ceramics, mosaics, clothing and souvenirs). Heading west, around the 1st and 2nd Circles, you'll find elegant villas, numerous cafés, restaurants and Western-style boutiques. This is also the embassy district. Zahran Street stretches from the 2nd Circle to the 6th Circle. This wide, not particularly pleasant avenue serves above all as a landmark in the city. Luxury hotels with famous names are concentrated around the traffic circles, while the residential areas of Sweifieh and Umm Uthaina stretch to the north and south. Numerous chic and popular restaurants have taken over the street's doorsteps and adjacent streets.

Jebel Weibdeh, Jebel Hussein and Shmeisani

Jabal Weibdeh and Jabal Hussein are among the city's oldest districts. Far from modern shopping centers, Jabal Weibdeh resembles a small village. In addition to art galleries, here you'll find the French Institute and Paris Square, where Jordanian youth gather at dusk. These two districts are dominated by the blue dome of the city's largest mosque, King Abdullah's, a true symbol for Jordanians. In the center is the Abdali bus station, formerly the main railway station, but still the departure point for buses to the airport and for the private company JETT. These two residential districts offer a number of very quiet addresses for those on a budget. They also have the advantage of being equidistant from the lower town, Jebel Amman and Shmeisani. Shmeisani is the fast-growing business district. This is where the majority of car rental companies, garages, luxury car showrooms, gas stations and luxury ready-to-wear boutiques are located. The district is singularly lacking in soul, especially in the evenings when the offices have closed and Ammanis have gone home.

Finding your way around Amman

Ammanis don't use or know the names of their city's streets. Few signs even indicate them. As a result, they are more likely to use visual landmarks to give their address. This can lead to some interesting treasure hunts, especially if it's rush hour. To fill in an address, start with the name of the neighborhood, then the name of a main street or traffic circle, and finally a visual landmark. For example, to indicate the Kempinski Hotel, this might be: "Shmeisani, between the Abdali and Wadi Saqra interchanges, behind the Haya Cultural Center, on the right after the KFC". If you don't speak Arabic or your English is limited, it's best to have the address written down by a local when you go somewhere. You can also plug into an app such as Google Maps or Waze and show your driver your destination. Most drivers use GPS in Amman. However, cab drivers know almost all the city's hotels and main tourist spots from memory.