ABU JBARA

This huge canteen, lit up like a shop window at Christmas time, is rarely full, as the room is so large. The choice is very limited and printed on the placemats: fuul (mashed beans), hummus, musabaha (a variation of hummus with whole chickpeas), fatteh or the inevitable falafel. You'll come across Jordanian families or clusters of friends who have come to eat a quick meal on the go. Many come here to take away. The terse service is efficient. It's simple, cheap and good.