Things to see and do Amman

An emblematic monument of ancient Philadelphia, the citadel of Amman is worth a visit whether you are an archaeology enthusiast or not. It offers an extraordinary panorama of the city and its hills of beige stone buildings. The lower city and the Roman amphitheater spread out at your feet while the minarets of the mosques break with their verticality the architectural uniformity of the city. At nightfall, the muezzins sound their haunting call to prayer and the neon lights of the mosques tint the black sky with green, like an aurora borealis. If you're in a chauffeured car, ask it to arrive from the north (Salah Ad-Din al-Ayoubi St.) and enjoy incredible views of the city and the citadel, which stands majestically at the last moment. The site is very pleasant to walk around and Jordanian families go there for picnics on weekends. In summer, you should come early in the morning to avoid the hot hours of the day. It takes between 2 hours and half a day to visit.

History. The L-shaped hill was occupied long before the citadel was built. A tomb dating from 1650 B.C. was discovered here, containing pottery. An inscription on a limestone tablet was found in a very good state of preservation at the site in 1961. This text, the oldest in the Ammonite language, dates back to 800 BC. The various civilizations that have occupied the region from the Assyrians in the 8th century BC to the Umayyads in the 8th century have all left their mark on Qala'a Hill. The Greeks may have built the city of Philadelphia, whose power was known throughout the empire, but they left no visible traces on the site. It was not until the reign of the Roman emperor Marcus Aurelius (160-181) that the city changed its face and became part of the Decapolis. He used the plan of the temple of Artemis in Ephesus, one of the seven wonders of the world. The Byzantines built a church, while the Umayyads added a mosque and a palace

The low citadel. From the entrance to the site, a gently sloping path climbs to the top of the plateau of al-Qala'a hill. There are some poorly documented ruins and a cave that was once a dwelling. One can also observe the remains of the Roman fortifications.

The temple of Hercules. Built when Geminius Marcianus (162-166) was the Roman governor of the Province of Arabia, the Temple of Hercules may have been built over an ammonite temple. It measures 30 x 24 meters and a smaller sanctuary is attached to it. It is the oldest monument of the very powerful Philadelphia. The Romans worshipped their demigod Hercules, the man of 12 labors. A gigantic statue stood at the entrance of the temple, as evidenced by the fragment of a hand that now lies at its feet. Of the temple, only the high columns and a fragment of the lintel remain. The missing marble would have been used as building material for the nearby Byzantine church. However, the whole building has not been excavated and discoveries are perhaps to be made.

The archaeological museum. A visit to this old museum is a must if you are interested in the ancient history of Jordan: some incredible pieces are on display. The collections are presented chronologically from the Neolithic to the Roman occupation. Artifacts are displayed in English. Notable works include the strange anthropomorphic statues of Ain Ghazal. They are 10,000 years old and are among the oldest idols in the world. The body is rudimentary and abstract, but the details of the faces are remarkable. The mouth and nostrils are clearly visible, but especially the eyes in relief, painted in black thanks to an inlay of bitumen. The material has been modeled by hand on a network of reed branches tied together to give them their internal structure like a skeleton. The plaster of which they are composed is then baked, thus attesting to a mastery of high temperatures. The two-headed statue is the most remarkable. A total of 15 statues of the same type have been discovered at Ain Gazhal. One is on loan to the Louvre and a second to the Louvre Abu Dhabi.

To the right of the room, 7,000-year-old skulls come from the ancient city of Jericho, the oldest city in the world. They were covered with clay during a burial rite. All of the adjacent display cases showcase relics found in Jericho, including trepanning skulls.

In the "Iron Age II" section, admire the statue of Yerah "Azar, son of Zakir, son of Sanipu," carved 700-800 B.C. This Ammonite king reveals in his features and symbolism the influence of the powerful neighboring Egypt of the time, especially the lotus flower he carries in his left hand crossed over his belly, a royal symbol used by the pharaohs of the new Egyptian empire, copied by the Assyrians and Aramaeans. She also wears the clothes of Aramaic dignitaries, showing the various regional influences at the time of her creation.

The museum also houses a reproduction of the Mesha stele. Its text, written in a variant of Phoenician, tells how the Moabite god Chemosh became angry with his people for being seduced by Israel and how he came to the aid of King Mesha to free the Moabites from the yoke of the Jewish people. This stele was discovered in 1868 by a German missionary in the village of Dhiban. This discovery aroused the British, French and German appetite to own it. The French archaeologist Clermont-Ganneau managed to make an imprint of the stele before it was destroyed by the Bedouins who were angry at the pressure exerted by the Ottomans to sell the stele to the Germans. A copy of the reconstruction of the "Moab Stone" made from partial original fragments is held by the Louvre Museum.

Finally, the museum also houses superb anthropomorphic clay sarcophagi used in the Iron Age, between the 13th and 8th centuries BC.

The Byzantine church. To the north-east of the Temple of Hercules, heading towards the upper terrace, we come to the ruins of a Byzantine church of rather modest dimensions. It would date from the^5th or 6th century and would have been built with part of the stones of the temple of Hercules. A series of mosaics has been brought to light. Excavations carried out intermittently suggest that the Byzantine city extended over the entire hill. Twenty meters further on is a large round cistern 5 meters deep. It could hold 1,000^m3 of rainwater and supplied the Umayyad Palace. Just next to it are the remains of an olive press.

The Umayyad mosque. The mosque attached to the Umayyad palace was built around 730 on the highest point of the hill. Unfortunately, nothing remains of the vaulted ceilings. Only seven rows of columns arranged around a central courtyard and part of the southern wall remain.

The Umayyad Palace. This monument would have been built around 720 by the Umayyads, under the reign of the Caliph Hisham. A true testimony of the splendor of the time, it included nine residential quarters opening onto a central courtyard. Only the courtroom survived the earthquake of 749. It is built on the foundations of an ancient Byzantine church (hence the cross shape) and covered with a wooden dome added in 1998. One can still admire the geometric patterns finely carved in the stone, inherited from Byzantine traditions. The palace was equipped with thermal baths, whose pipes date back to Roman times. Behind the hall, a courtyard leads to an alley of columns that must have been the heart of the administrative quarter. At the end of the alley is another square and the remains of the actual Umayyad palace. The distribution of the quarters shows the existing hierarchy in the city, ending with a porticoed courtyard leading to the throne room.

The forum and theater marked the epicenter of commercial and cultural life in the days of the Roman Empire. In Philadelphia, at one time considered the capital of the Roman province of Arabia, the theater backed onto Jebel el-Taj and was preceded by a huge square that served as the main meeting point and market place. On its eastern side, a smaller theater, the Odeon, closed the square. Today, the Roman theater houses two museums: the Museum of Popular Traditions and the Museum of Folklore.

The Forum. Access to the Roman amphitheatre complex is via the ancient forum. This huge, open square, now lined with trees, was one of the largest in the Roman Empire. It measures 100 x 50 meters. It was enclosed to the north by the Great Theater and the Taj Hill, and to the east by the small Odeon Theater. It was also lined with colonnades for merchants, of which today only a single row remains in front of the main theater. Major thoroughfares led to the Forum, in particular the cardo maximus, the main north-south road found in every Roman decapolis. The city's population used to gather here. In fact, it's still a lively place where the inhabitants of the lower town gather, especially on summer evenings. They enjoy the terraces, where Egyptian soccer matches are shown, or simply sit and chat on the steps leading down to the esplanade. You'll notice a ticket office on the right as you enter the site. This is where you pay the ticket price for the Roman Theatre or present your Jordan Pass.

Roman Theatre. Your steps will lead you directly to the imposing Roman Theatre, set against the jebel El-Taj. From the top of its tiers, you can look back on 20 centuries of history. Its construction dates back to the reign of Antoninus Pius (138-161), reputed to be one of the most peaceful rulers the Roman Empire had ever known. The theater could accommodate up to 6,000 spectators. Carved out of the mountain, it met the standards of Roman theaters of the time. From the beginning of the modern era, the Romans finalized their theatrical construction methods, moving in particular to permanent stone construction. Unlike ancient Greek theaters, Roman theaters were enclosed by a stage wall that rose to the height of the tiers. The semicircular shape of the tiers, known as cavea, was preserved for acoustic and visual reasons. The spectator sees and hears everything, whether seated in the front or back row. The cavea of the Amman theater is divided into three levels. The lower level(prima cavea) was reserved for rulers and patricians. The middle tier(media cavea) was occupied by members of the army, while the civilian population occupied the last ranks(summa cavea). You'll notice a niche at the very top of the terraces. It housed a statue of the goddess Athena, now in the Royal Jordan Museum. Each floor is delimited by a praecinctio, a passageway that allowed people to move around. The slope of the tiers was particularly well thought-out, generally inclined at 30°. In particular, it was designed to allow sound to travel upwards without reverberating, and to allow people to sit down without being disturbed by the person in front. The pit, or orchestra, is surrounded by bleachers and faces the raised stage. Actors came to stand in the niches(pulpitum) at the foot of the stage during long tirades or for certain dialogues. The columns along the stage served as a street backdrop, while the stage wall represented a palace and was used as a backdrop for interior scenes. Access to the interior is via a passageway leading off either end of the orchestra. For years, the theater was the site of a vast excavation project. Now restored, it is sometimes the setting for traditional dance and music performances in summer (ask at the tourist office).

The Folklore Museum. On the left as you enter the theater. It features a collection of objects typical of the country: musical instruments, weapons, a large Bedouin goat-hair tent with two compartments (men on one side, women on the other), teapots, carpets, weaving looms, beautiful gold and coral jewelry from the Red Sea... Don't miss the black-and-white photos of Amman at the entrance to the museum.

The Museum of Popular Traditions. Located on the right as you enter the theater, it's not very different from the Folklore Museum. The small museum displays Bedouin objects (traditional dress, jewelry, etc.), marquetry, evidence of the rich local crafts (carpets, saddles, etc.) and traditional Palestinian dress. The collection is completed by Byzantine mosaics and pottery from excavations in Madaba and Jerash.

The Odeon. Far less impressive than the Roman theater, it's still worth a stop. Built in the ^2nd century, it was mainly used for musical performances and political meetings, for up to 600 people.

The Jordan Tourism Board is the official tourism showcase of Jordan. It is mainly aimed at professionals of the sector, but also welcomes tourists. You will find there some interesting brochures in French and a good map of the country. The website referencing tourist activities and organized tours in Jordan is very complete. You will find many interesting ideas to enrich your visits and your itinerary, from a nice café in Ajloun to stores specialized in traditional crafts.

In addition to taking advantage of the permanent activity of the universities, you can visit some museums. The most interesting are archaeological and folklore exhibitions. The small museums of biology, medicine or anthropology are primarily intended for specialists.

Opened in 2005 to promote Jordan's architectural and historical heritage, the Jordan Museum traces the country's history back to ancient times thanks to the many discoveries made by archaeologists since the late 19th century. The museum consists of three main galleries (History and Archaeology, Traditional Lifestyles, and Jordan Today), displaying some 2,000 artifacts presented both historically and thematically. The collection is quite rich and gives a broad idea of the evolution of this region inhabited for at least 500,000 years. It contains some priceless treasures, such as the two-headed statue of Ain Ghazal, a 10,000-year-old anthropomorphic statue, or fragments of the Dead Sea Scrolls.

Two-headed statue of Ain Ghazal. This statue is part of a series of 15 statuettes found at the site of Ain Ghazal, now part of the suburb of Amman. It is made of baked plaster on a reed structure. This technique demonstrates the advancement of this Neolithic civilization, as a temperature of at least 900 °C was required to bake the statues.

The Dead Sea Scrolls. Part of the manuscripts discovered at Qumran (Palestine) between 1947 and 1956 are stored here. The very ancient texts, written mostly on parchment or papyrus, refer to the Old Testament. The Jordan Museum has the only manuscript written on copper leaf

Built under Emperor Marc Aurèle'reign between 161 and 179, perhaps at the location of a ammonite temple, it is the oldest monument of the very powerful Philadelphia. The Romans worship their half god, Hercules, for which they had erected a gigantic statue. Some fragments of the latter were found.

But there is not much left of the temple, if it is the big columns, visible from afar, and the lintel. A little to the east, you can see the remains of Roman fortifications.

It took 7 years to complete the construction of this mosque, the largest in the country. Built between 1982 and 1989 in honor of King Hussein's grandfather, His Majesty as-Sayyid Abdullah I, the first king of Jordan, this mosque is the most modern and most imposing in the country. Its gigantic blue dome lined with mosaics with geometric patterns dominates the city. Under the 35 meters diameter of the dome, the prayer hall can accommodate 3,000 worshippers. On busy days, such as Friday prayers during Ramadan, an additional 6,000 worshippers can take over the outer courtyard. Inside, the ceiling of the azure dome is streaked with thin golden bands like a sun, the blue symbolizing the sky, and the lines the 99 names of Allah. Verses from the Koran are inscribed on a huge three-branched candlestick. The red carpet symbolizes fertility; it leads to the "mihrab", the niche that indicates the direction of Mecca, to which all faithful must turn for prayer. In the basement there is a small Islamic museum with personal effects of King Abdullah I, photos and some Islamic art.

Non-Muslims can visit the mosque outside of prayer hours. Women are required to wear an outfit that covers arms, legs and head. A black hooded robe is provided at the entrance for this purpose. Men must wear pants (no shorts). Please remember to remove your shoes before entering the prayer hall.

There is no real old or covered souk in Amman like in Damascus or Jerusalem. Nevertheless, the classic components of Arab markets are there: small streets, stalls that spread out along the sidewalk, and workshops of all kinds grouped by discipline (ironwork, carpentry, carpets...), vegetable and fruit markets, live animals, and above all, incessant activity. You can buy spices, gold, jewellery, oriental perfumes, clothes, scarves of all colours and chinese things for tourists.

The visit of this small museum is necessary for all those who are passionate about the history of Jordan and who are preparing to visit the treasures (Four, Petra, Pella…) or for the herbe archaeologists. It gathers a large collection of remains throughout Jordan, from its Neolithic period, through its consecutive principalities periods, as well as all kinds of objects, discovered on the country's main historic sites. The collections are displayed chronologically and explanations are posted in English.

To the north of the temple of Hercules, by heading towards the top terrace, you can reach the ruins of a Byzantine church of relatively modest dimensions. She date the th century and was built with the stones of the temple of Hercules.

A series of mosaics was updated. Excavations are ongoing and we think that the Byzantine city stretches across the hill. Approximately metres away is a large round tank omeyyade and the remains of a olive press.

Amman's historic Grand Mosque watches over the old "Downtown" quarter. The lower town spreads out around it and its two high minarets. It was built in 1932 by King Abdullah ^I in Ottoman style, on the foundations of an ancient mosque dating back to 640. The latter is said to have been built on the site of the former Philadelphia Cathedral. It has been under renovation since 2021, and no one knows when the work will be completed.

Fans of beautiful bodies will be served. This museum was opened in 2003 by King Abdullah II, in memory of his father, a motor vehicle enthusiast. The collection presents more than 80 vehicles that belonged to King Hussein. From rally cars to Bentley's armoured limousines, including sports cars, military vehicles, family sedans, motorcycles for desert sand tracks and even bicycles... the collection displays a part of the automotive history from the post-war period to the present day. Small video installations punctuate the tour, showing King Hussein in action in his cars. It seems that the passion has been passed on from father to son, as King Abdullah II's cars have now been added to the collection. It also seems that the royal family had an unlimited interest in the German manufacturer Mercedes, which is widely represented here. In addition to this small retrospective of the German firm, we find prestigious brands that have made history in the automobile such as Aston Martin, Rolls Royace, Bentley, Lincoln, Cadillac... The oldest car dates back to 1916 and was imported by Hussein bin Ali, the grandfather of King Hussein, hero of the Great Arab Revolt. The museum has a replica of the first motorcycle ever invented in 1886. The vehicles are perfectly maintained and all are said to be roadworthy.

This vast public fountain was dedicated to the nymphs, mythological creatures in the guise of young girls, who were associated with springs, woods and mountains. It dates back to 191 and included a large pool of 600 square metres, two floors with colonnades and alcoves decorated with mosaics and engravings. The lower part was made of marble while the upper part was made of painted plaster. It was surmounted by a dome and water flowed from lions' heads carved into the receptacle. The pink granite basin was added in the Byzantine period.

Renovated in 2005, the Jordan Fine Arts Museum comprises two buildings facing each other around a small park. The first building houses the permanent collection and the ticket office, while the second houses the temporary exhibitions. The museum showcases the best of contemporary art in Jordan and more broadly in the Arab and Muslim world. Painting, sculpture and pottery are among the arts represented here. The exhibitions have a very good reputation.

It is perhaps no coincidence that the Martyrs' Memorial, commissioned by King Hussein in 1977, was set up in the huge park that includes the national stadium, the Olympic swimming pool and many other sports facilities. The youth must not forget their ancestors who fought for Jordan's independence and the fate of the Arab world. A museum and memorial, the large golden stone cube typical of Amman houses a permanent exhibition that traces the country's military history from the Great Revolt of 1916 to the present day.

The former residence of the royal family stands on a secluded hill. Built in 1926, it was chosen by Abdullah I to serve as his palace. You will be able to see (from a distance) on the gates, the arms of the Hashemite dynasty. But do not expect to enter even the gardens, visits are prohibited. The Raghadan Palace still has official functions, especially when receiving visiting heads of state or when presenting the credentials of new ambassadors.

Darat Al Funun means "House of Arts" in Arabic. It is a dynamic place established in 1993 by Khalid Shoman, a prominent Palestinian who has been involved in contemporary Arab art all his life. The art gallery highlights regional artists through its permanent collection which exhibits such renowned artists as Ismail Fattah (Iraq) or Nasser al Soumiou (Palestinian). It also organizes temporary exhibitions of paintings, sculptures, photos, installations... intended to reveal preferably artists in the making. The Maison des Arts also houses a library of art books and receives painters and sculptors in residence. Finally, in addition to exhibitions, it organizes film screenings, concerts, readings and debates. The house wants to be a real place of exchange and not only a static forum.

The house. Darat Al Funun is housed in one of the oldest houses in the city. It was built in 1920 by a family of Amman notables, like all the houses in this residential area of Jebel Al Weibdeh. It dominated the small Circassian town that became the gigantic Amman a few decades later. Outside the property are the remains of one of the many Byzantine churches that existed in Philadelphia (6th century), perhaps dedicated to Saint George. The open garden at the rear of the building, decorated with sculptures, is home to a pleasant tea room

Built by King Abdullah II in memory of his father. It presents a collection of over 70 cars and motorcycles that belonged to King Hussein.

Located on the top of a hill (Jebel Al-Ashrafiyeh), south of the lower town, it is easily identifiable thanks to the alternating white and black bands on its walls. It was built in 1961 by the circassian community. Non-Muslims are generally not allowed to enter.

Not far away is the St-Sauveur Church. You have to climb hard to reach the top of this hill. From the lower town, on Italian Street, you can take taxis-service No 25 or 26.

This art gallery located in the trendy Rainbow Street area exhibits a large number of Arab artists, some of whom are very young and very talented. It has the art of sniffing out the talents of tomorrow and offering them a pleasant exhibition space. The exhibitions, often of short duration, are open to the public. You need only push the door to discover the prolific contemporary scene in the Arab world. The gallery, like most of its counterparts, organizes workshops for adults and children to discover contemporary art.