Discover Salvador : Neighborhoods of Salvador

The city of Salvador cannot be reduced to its historic center alone. This original district, the administrative, political and economic heart of the first imperial capital, has been happily restored and is now mainly a tourist attraction. As in the northern part of the city, including the Bonfim district, the resident population is often poor and of African origin. The main attraction is the Bonfim church, a Mecca of Bahian syncretism. The São Joaquim market is another essential part of Soteropolitan life. The lower town is essentially commercial, with boats heading for Itaparica and Morro de São Paulo. The areas to the south (Barra, Vitória and Barris as well as Ondina, Rio Vermelho and the east) are more residential, touristy and fairly safe. Ondina is very chic, and home to Caetano Veloso and his sister Maria Bethânia. Rio Vermelho is the bohemian, fashionable district.

Quartier du Pelourinho © lazyllama - Shutterstock.com.jpg

Centro, Pelourinho and the north

The Pelourinho in the upper town, overlooking the bay of Tous-les-Saints, is like an open-air museum. The district's main source of income is tourism. The historic center was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1985, and has undergone a veritable renaissance. Its narrow, cobbled streets exude a permanent sense of mystery. If you lose yourself in the streets of old Salvador, you'll find a vertical, triangular square, the Largo do Pelourinho. Further on, abandoned houses with shrubs clinging to collapsed terraces. In these streets are numerous Baroque churches with superbly overloaded sculptures. But it's also a poor district, with many beggars and street children. The tourist is quickly put off by the number of hawkers and waiters who insist on having a seat on their terrace. Despite these inconveniences, it's a pleasant place to stay. There are many charming pousadas , well-decorated and often run directly by the owners, guaranteeing a quality welcome. Food options are also numerous and varied. Some establishments take advantage of the tourist influx to inflate prices. The Pelourinho is constantly patrolled, but some deserted streets, notably between Praça da Sé and Terreiro de Jesus, are best avoided. Between 10 and 11 p.m. is also a good time to be on the lookout, as this is when the police change shifts. If you're staying outside pedestrian precincts, it's best to take a cab in the evening. Outside festive periods, the Pelourinho tends to be less busy. Beware: never walk the streets linking the lower town or the Barra district to the upper town.

Santo Antônio Alem do Carmo. This district, in the northern extension of Largo do Pelourinho, is, like the latter, one of the oldest in the city. Largo de Santo Antônio, long deserted, has been renovated and has been frequented again by city dwellers and tourists since 2016. Today, it's one of the city's most pleasant districts.

Here, too, you'll find colonial-style buildings, and at the end of the street you'll find the Igreja de Santo Antônio Além do Carmo (rebuilt in 1813 on the ruins of an earlier church) and the Forte de Capoeira, overlooking the bay.

Barroquinha. This is the district adjoining the south of Pelourinho and the north of Barris. Here you'll find the Espaço Cultural da Barroquinha, housed in the former church of the same name, and a number of shops specializing mainly in leather goods. There is little tourist interest in this area, but visitors may find themselves passing through it.

Comércio and the lower town. The lower town(cidade baixa) presents a more contrasted picture: old, poorly-maintained buildings mix with contemporary ones, and stalls stand alongside banks and business buildings. This part of the city offers a few tourist attractions, such as the Mercado Modelo and the Museum of Modern Art, but you can also simply stroll through the lively alleys of the Comércio district to discover a popular side of Salvador. You can also watch the boats dock along the pontoons of the marina, or embark from the Terminal Turístico Náutico da Bahia (just behind the Mercado Modelo) for an excursion. You'll find cheap restaurants by the kilo at lunchtime.

Bonfim and the north. The big attraction in this part of town is undoubtedly the Bonfim church, a mecca for Afro-Bahian syncretism, which attracts large numbers of worshippers throughout the year, especially in January when the traditional staircase washing ceremony takes place.

Further north, still on the Itapagipe peninsula, the Ribeira district is just as pleasant, presenting a more popular and tranquil face of Salvador, with a pleasant stroll along the water's edge.

Barra, Vitória and Barris

Barra. At the south-western tip of the city, facing the sea, the lighthouse is the emblem of the Barra district. Every day, many Bahians and tourists gather on the lawn to watch the impressive and brief sunset. The promenade along the avenue bordering the sea is also very pleasant. This is a rather middle-class area. On the beach, however, all social classes mingle.

Vitória. On the way from Barra to the center, along Avenida 7 de Setembro, you'll see some impressive colonial mansions built by the local ^19th-century bourgeoisie. Some have been converted into museums, while others are still inhabited, as well as modern towers housing luxury buildings with superb views over the bay. This is Corredor da Vitória, one of Bahia's most popular areas.

Campo Grande. In Campo Grande, near Avenida 7 de Setembro, in the heart of the pleasant, tranquil Praça Dois de Julho park (also known as Largo do Campo Grande), which is open during the day and overlooks the entire bay, the statue of the Indian striking down the dragon with his spear is a Bahian tribute to the indigenous population and their courage during the War of 1825. Note the superb Italian neoclassical palace housing the Casa d'Itália.

Barris. Further on, in the direction of Pelourinho, Avenida 7 de Setembro climbs towards the districts of Politeama and Barris, becoming noisier and more commercial. On Avenida 7 de Setembro, if you make a slight detour via Travessa Salvador Pires, you come to a small square, Largo dos Aflitos. Here you can admire the superb little palace housing the military police and, opposite, the Ministry of Agriculture. There's also the colonial-style Gamboa missionary center. If you cross the esplanade, you come to a superb little corner square, the Mirante dos Aflitos, which offers a small terrace with a sublime view over the bay. The sunset is not to be missed! Just north of the Barris district, the Praça da Piedade is impressive, with its superb railings designed by Bel Borba, a local artist. The Gabinete Português de Leitura is also worth a visit.

Ondina, Rio Vermelho and the East

Ondina is a more upscale district, with large luxury hotels and a popular weekend beach.

Rio Vermelho is Salvador's bohemian corner, known for its nightlife and numerous bars and restaurants. Maria Bethânia, Gilberto Gil, Caetano Veloso and many other artists have their homes here.

The beaches along the coast after Amaraline are of little interest as far as Piatã, and you have to go more than 20 km from the center to find interesting bathing spots. The mythical (but crowded) Itapoã beach, sung by Vinícius de Moraes, Stella Maris and Flamengo offer a variety of accommodation, restaurants, clubs and nightclubs, and are therefore ideal for a lazy break. The only drawback: so far from the center and its hustle and bustle, it's a little hard to feel at home in Salvador.