MACHU PICCHU
Read morePlanted at 2,430 meters above sea level, it seems to be embedded in the landscape. On the eastern siderise the two great agricultural and urban zones of the city which, it is said, was the last refuge of the acllas (Acllahuasi), these virgins of the Sun charged to perpetuate the sacred rites. In the urban sector were concentrated the secular activities, with residential districts and drains, and sacred, with temples, mausoleums, royal houses. The architecture itself separates the two worlds: rather coarse for what concerns the life of the people, refined for the buildings of the nobility. By a large staircase, one reaches a watchtower which allows a plunging view on the site. Just below, a stone grouping joins the old Tumba Real (or Mausoleo) guarded by a tower (Templo del Sol or Torréon). Las Escalinatas de las Fuentes and a series of sixteen fountains where, it seems, ritual ablutions were performed. The complex adjoins the Residencia Real. From the flight of stairs to the north, we reach the Plaza Sagrada, which marks the entrance to the religious quarter. The central square is closed by several temples. It is here that the mysterious vibrations that emanate from this site are probably best felt. The Intihuatana at the top of a pyramid that clearly emerges from the site is the most famous place. It seems that it was used as solar calendar.
So much for the general view that we embrace with happiness from the Casa del Guardian, the most famous view of Machu Picchu (circuit 1 or terraces above circuit 2). Then what was the site used for? Who built it? How was it built? These are mysteries and historical controversies. Pachacuteq had a great role to play, but it is also thought that the site was prior to him. It would have served as a rest house and/or center of observation of the stars. Excavations and research continue.
Practical. You can always enter the site alone even if a guide is recommended. Count 20 US$ per person for a private visit (minimum 60 US$). At the entrance of the site itself, there are few French-speaking guides.
It is imperative to reserve your entrance to Machu Picchu in advance, a determined number of people is authorized on the archaeological site. With a classic Llaqta entrance, you can choose to take the circuit that you want: 1, 2, 3 or 4. We recommend 1 or 2, the longest ones that start with the panoramic view. The Huchuy Picchu, Wayna Picchu or Montaña Picchu hikes are to be booked separately and conditioned to a single circuit.
CAMINO INCA
Read moreUnfortunately one cannot undertake the excursion alone (the rules and controls are very strict) and the assistance of an agency is obligatory. Those follow one another on the Plaza de Armas of Cusco and in the calle Plateros, but attention, the prices are according to the service. It is necessary to count approximately 600 US$ for the 4 days of hike (40 km), without forgetting the tip for your companions, but that includes the trains, entries, visit of the site. Be sure to check which services are included or not.
It is highly recommended to book in advance, as the number of hikers on the trail is limited to 500 people (including porters) per day. Don't believe anyone who tells you otherwise. Best season is from May to August for an arrival under the sun.
As a reminder, previously it was possible to reach the Sun Gate from the archaeological site, since the pandemic this access has not been reopened to visitors with a classic entrance. Its access is therefore reserved only to the walkers of the Camino Inca.
To travel serenely, do not hesitate to leave your luggage and your money at the hotel, but do not forget to take your passport, indispensable to enter the site of Machu Picchu. In addition, you will be able to stamp it on your way out to show off to your friends!
Circuit of 4 days
For this mythical walk rich in emotions, it is necessary to foresee four days and three nights, so much this way that followed the "chasquis", estafettes assuring the communications between the cardinal points of the empire, is marked by History. The major part of the way is paved and in good condition, with, at the end, the reward that makes forget all the fatigues: Machu Picchu! The route itself, which begins in the sierra and emerges in the selva, impresses by the efflorescence of the vegetation and by the lakes and mountains that seem to have been sown there, for the only pleasure of the hiker. The vegetation all along the route shows off its finery: puyas, orchids, fragrant essences (cedar, eucalyptus, laurel), and if you are lucky, you may see an otter, a puma or a parrot. Hummingbirds also show up very often.
The groups are generally constituted of 10 to 15 people, including an experienced guide knowing the vegetation and the History of the Incas, porters and cooks who, very often, are the same. The porters do a lot of work: they have to arrive before you at the sites to set up camp and prepare the meal, and then, once you have left, they have to break camp and run (with at least 20 kg on their backs) to overtake you and set up the next camp before you arrive. These porters will prepare balanced and varied meals (from trout to chicken to spaghetti bolognaise), always with a soup as a starter and a mate de coca (coca leaf infusion) for dessert.
This mate is absolutely essential to alleviate the inevitable breathing problems.
At km 88, the train (or the bus) abandons its load of hikers - it is necessary to be ready, because the convoy stops only one small minute - before plunging in a tunnel and continuing its smoky and rattling road. We cross the roaring Urubamba river by a suspension bridge and we begin the walk on the most popular trekking path of America. 3 km further on, we are already in the heart of the matter with the archaeological site of Llaqtapata, that is to say one hundred dwellings of different architecture, a trapezoidal square and buildings with two floors. The most remarkable is constituted by a succession of stone terraces stretched on 2 km. It would be a pity, in the excitement of the beginning of a journey that promises to be exciting, to neglect Llaqtapata. But already the path becomes very steep before stabilizing; the soft hum of the fresh Kusichaka river alleviates the first burns to the lungs, and the shade of the trees soothes the walker.
3h30 after having left the train to its parallel destiny, we see, at 2 770 m of altitude, the houses of Wayllabamba, unique village on the route, in a valley where the irrigation canals and the inca terraces go up to the conquest of the slope.
It is time to breathe and to choose between going to Llulluchapampa - it will then be necessary to walk 2 hours more - or to stay in Willabamba to rest. At this stage, we are facing a big physical challenge: to leave the valley to climb by the Hatun Wayruro stream and to pass the pass of Warmihuanusqa. The next day, when we leave, the landscape changed: the short grass, dried by the cold winds, took the place of the forest. When we reach the pass, we are at 4 200 m, culminating point of the way of the Inca (part not to be underestimated). The ground becomes very steep (difference in level of almost 1,000 m) in the descent (attention to the knees!) until the Pacamayu river, border between sierra and selva, territory of the mosquitoes. After lunch, as a way of digestion, we climb to the ruins of Runkuraqay, a place of observation and sanctuary whose walls have defied the centuries.
The glance thrown back catches the snowy summit of the Verónica and slides, in the east, on the green carpet of the tropical forest. From this moment, the walk becomes a real pleasure: we only have to go down towards the "lost city". At 3 500 m, Sayaqmarka spreads out its alleys, houses, fountains and pre-Hispanic channels. We camp near the walls, because here the sunset is absolutely extraordinary. A lake on the right, flowers everywhere and the picture is complete. The way becomes then a reality of stone facilitating the approach of Machu Picchu. We bathe there in full mystery, in the middle of the clouds, between the buildings of Phuyupatamarca, center of distribution of inca food. The complex owes its name to the profusion of orchids which grow there in big number, all the year. Borrowing the way of the Inca that connects Phuyupatamarca to Winay, "young woman" in Quechua, we go along an interesting set of houses and fountains. Further, we plant the tent to 4 hours of walk of the Inti Punku, door of the Sun, for the third and last night under the stars, the head already to the Machu Picchu so close and that we will be among the first to visit, before the arrival of the buses..
It is here that you will find the other groups for a big feast, a shower (without hot water, but that makes good nevertheless) and that you will thank the carriers and cooks to have accompanied you. The next morning, wake up at 3:30 am for the last walk, even the race, until the door of the Sun from where we will watch its rising on the marvelous Inca city. A reward which redeems a very legitimate tiredness. This arrival by the Door of the Sun at this hour is savored. Then, with slow steps, we approach the descent towards the heart of the ruins and participate in a traditional visit. You will go back down by shuttle to join the crowd of the tourists to Aguas Calientes and you will realize the great privilege to make its entrance on such a mythical site on foot.
Circuit of 2 days
This option is very interestingfor those who do not feel the physical strength of a too intense trek and hard nights, but want to enjoy the landscapes. We take a train early in the morning, we get off at Km 104 and we do the whole last part of the Camino Inca. Elevation changes, steps and ascents and descents. We arrive by the Door of the Sun at the end of the afternoon to discover a more quiet site since we arrive little before its closing. Then we will go up the next morning (after having spent the night in a real bed) for the guided tour of the next day. So we see Machu Picchu twice, at two different hours of the day and probably under two different lights and atmospheres. It is necessary to go through an agency, the quotas are regulated, but with the rules of visit hardened it is a good solution to enjoy it more. The all-inclusive price with train, walk, entrance fees, visit, night, train back is still high, about 400 US$, but it is a once-in-a-lifetime encounter.